Cosmetic with condensates of plant and animal decomposition prod

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice

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Details

424535, 424520, 4241951, 510119, 510130, A61K 3578, A61K 3520, A61K 706, A61K 748

Patent

active

059165774

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
The invention concerns cosmetic agents with condensates of plant and animal decomposition products, which can be used in cosmetic body care and cleansing preparations and which, in addition to the emulsifying effect, have essential skin-care properties.
Cosmetic agents with emulsifying and surface-active effects are known in many combinations for use in cosmetic products for body care and cleansing. Among them there are two classes of tensides in particular which are particularly characterized by good skin tolerance and are accessible from natural raw materials, and which are becoming of growing interest, namely the protein-fatty acid condensates and the alkyl polyglycosides. The protein-fatty acid condensates are obtained by the transformation of protein partial hydrolysates with fatty acids, fatty acid chlorides, or fatty acid anhydrides in an aqueous solution, with the addition of bases. As fatty acid components, use may be made of derivatives of plant fatty acids (coconut oil fatty acids, oleic acid, and others), or those from synthetic fatty acids with identical chain lengths.
The corresponding protein hydrolysates are derived from alkaline, acidic, or enzymatic hydrolysis of natural proteins or raw materials containing proteins. Starting materials are plant, animal, microbial, and synthetic proteins, such as casein, albumin, osteocolla, gelatines, keratin, scrap leather, collagen, silk peptides, and biomasses on a paraffin base. For the alkaline decomposition of substances containing protein, alkali or alkaline earth compounds are used, as are their hydroxides, or ammonia, at increased temperature and, if applicable, at increased pressure.
The advantageous properties of the alkyl polyglycosides and the protein-fatty acid condensation products for cosmetic applications consist, in terms of their accessibility, of natural raw materials, of which the freedom from ethylene oxide, the viscosity of mixtures, the good foaming properties, the hair-conditioning properties, the synergistic effect with other tensides, and, last but not least, their biodegradability and good dermatological tolerance. With these products, however, the original biological structures are essentially no longer retained.
The object of the invention is to provide cosmetic agents and cosmetics with very good tolerance for the skin and mucous membranes, as well as skin-care properties, from plant and animal starting materials, which essentially contain proportions of original biological structures, but have been modified to the extent that they are cosmetically acceptable thanks to their neutral smell and light colour.
According to the invention, this objective is achieved by a cosmetic which contains an unpurified, cosmetically-effective product of a direct and mild decomposition (20 to 55.degree. C.; pH 7.5-8.5) of a biological starting material, selected from the group which consists of yeasts, yeast fractions, pulses, pulse fractions, pectins, pectin-containing masses, algae, algae fractions, animal milk, animal milk fractions, and their mixtures, in an aqueous medium, and condensed with a sub-stoichiometric amount of a C.sub.10 -C.sub.20 fatty acid halide or a C.sub.10 -C.sub.20 fatty acid halide mixtures, in which context the condensed decomposition product contains biological structures of the starting material, selected from the group which consists of helical natural substance components, vitamin structures, and their mixtures.
If the biological starting material is a yeast or yeast fraction, this is selected from the group which consists of baker's yeast and brewer's yeast. Brewer's waste yeast with a solid substance content of 10 to 30 percent by weight or yeast biomass fractions with yeast cell residues, such as are obtained after protein extraction in the yeast processing industry as a byproduct, can also be used.
If the biological starting material is a pulse or a pulse fraction, this is selected from the group which consists of peas, lentils, soya beans, and broad beans.
If the biological starting material is a pectin or

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Roberts, et al. In Cellulosics: Chemical, Biochemical and Material Aspects, J.F. Kennedy, G.O. Phillips, P.A. Williams, eds. Ellis Horwood Ltd., Great Britain (1993), pp. 141-151. No month found.
International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. J.A. Wenninger, G.N. McEwen, eds. CTFA, Washington D.C. (1993). No month found.
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