Sewing – Method of sewing
Reexamination Certificate
2002-01-31
2004-11-30
Nerbun, Peter (Department: 3765)
Sewing
Method of sewing
C112S470010, C112S278000, C112S302000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06823807
ABSTRACT:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to stitching machines, and more specifically, to computerized machines capable of stitching programmed designs into garments using multiple thread colors.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Stitching systems capable of stitching or embroidering patterns into garments or fabric using multiple colors are common in today's garment industry. In typical stitching machines, a first needle stitches a first color in a preset pattern. If the pattern requires several colors, a second needle stitches a second color in a preset pattern, with this process repeated for several colors until the complete pattern is stitched into the garment. Such stitching or embroidery machines are commonly controlled by a computer system. Typically, an operator downloads a pattern to be stitched to a computer system within the embroidery machine. Included with the pattern are several other parameters, including the size of the pattern to be stitched, and the size of the hoop which will hold the garment while it is being stitched.
Upon receiving the pattern and associated other information, the embroidery machine makes appropriate calculations to, among other things, verify the pattern will fit on the garment or fabric, and that the pattern will not overlap the hoop. After the pattern is downloaded, the computer system makes the appropriate calculations. When the operator has loaded the garment or fabric onto the embroidery machine and made all of the appropriate checks, the operator gives the embroidery machine a command to begin stitching, at which point, the machine begins stitching the pattern into the garment or fabric.
Typical embroidery machines include a sewing head, an X-Y assembly, and a hook and bobbin assembly. The sewing head is commonly a multi-needle head, containing several needles which are used to stitch different thread colors. The sewing head is commonly located on a carriage at the front of the embroidery machine and is movable on the carriage to locate a first needle in a stitching position above the hook and bobbin assembly to stitch a first thread color into the garment. When a second thread color needs to be stitched into the garment, the sewing head is moved on the carriage to locate a second needle in a stitching position above the hook and bobbin assembly to stitch the second thread color into the garment.
When performing stitching operations, the embroidery machine, as is common and well known in the industry, moves the needle containing an upper thread through the garment. There is typically a needle plate located beneath the garment which the needle projects through when it has moved through the garment. Beneath the needle plate is the hook and bobbin assembly. The hook rotates around a lower thread which is fed from the bobbin. The hook rotates to catch the upper thread, and carries the upper thread around the lower thread as the hook rotates. When the hook nears the completion of its revolution, the needle is pulling back through the needle plate and garment, and the upper thread disengages from the hook. When the needle pulls the rest of the way through the garment, the upper thread is pulled around the lower thread and becomes taught, thus securing, or locking, the stitch. The X-Y assembly then moves the garment to an appropriate position for the next stitch, and the process is repeated.
The X-Y assembly is secured to the embroidery machine and is adapted to be connected to a hoop which contains a garment to be stitched. The X-Y assembly contains an X and a Y positioning mechanism which moves the hoop in both the X and Y directions with respect to the embroidery machine. When stitching a pattern, the X-Y assembly moves the hoop in a preset pattern with respect to the stitching needle, and a pattern in thus stitched into the garment.
In such systems, mechanical apparatuses typically pull thread from a spool through a take-up lever and to the needle assembly. The thread is fed through the needle, which, as discussed above, moves in a reciprocating manner to move the needle through the garment and into the hook and bobbin assembly. As described above, when the needle pulls out of the garment, and the stitch is locked, there is tension in the thread which pulls the thread taught and locks the stitch. However, typical systems create more tension than is required to lock the stitch. This extra tension is the result of the mechanical apparatuses that pull the thread from the spool to the needle. Typical embroidery machines, as well as other stitching machines, route thread from the spool to a thread guide, to a take up lever, back through the thread guide, and to the needle. The take up lever is connected to the same mechanical apparatuses which move the needle, and moves up and down with the same frequency.
When the take up lever moves back up, thread is pulled from the hook and bobbin, resulting in the extra thread tension. This extra thread tension may cause the fabric of the garment being stitched to “bunch up.” That is, the tension in the thread will create additional tension in the stitches being sewn into the garment and, if the fabric of the garment is a relatively soft material, the stitch may pull the fabric together. In situations where this may happen, it is common to use a backing material to lend additional support, or stiffness, to the garment in order to avoid this bunching up. The backing material is placed on the side of the garment opposite the side that the pattern is stitched on. The increased amount of material required for the backing increases cost, compared to stitching a garment using no backing. Thus, it would be advantageous to reduce the need for backing material. Additionally, the use of backing material also increases the labor required to stitch a pattern into a garment, compared to stitching a garment with no backing. When using backing, an operator must obtain the backing material, and place it into the proper position with respect to the garment being stitched. Additionally, once the pattern is stitched, the backing material may need to be trimmed by an operator. Therefore, the reduction of the need for using backing material would also reduce labor costs related to stitching patterns.
In addition to necessitating the need for backing material as described above, the extra thread tension created by the mechanical apparatuses, which pull thread from the spools to the needle assemblies, may lead to thread breaks, which can interrupt the stitching process. If the embroidery machine has a single sewing head, the stitching operations must be stopped and the thread break corrected. If the embroidery machine has multiple stitching heads, and a thread breaks on one of the stitching heads, it may be more difficult to correct the thread break. This is due to the multiple stitching heads operating synchronously, stitching the same pattern into multiple garments at the same time. When a thread breaks, it typically takes a machine several stitches to detect that the break has occurred. If a thread breaks on a first stitching head, the remaining stitching heads will continue stitching the pattern until the first stitching head stops. Since it is common for embroidery machines with multiple sewing heads to have the sewing heads mechanically coupled, when such a thread break occurs, the remaining sewing heads will be “ahead” of the sewing head which had the thread break. Thus, when a break occurs in such a system, additional steps must be taken to “catch up” the sewing head which had the thread break. Thus, it would be advantageous to reduce the number of thread breaks and to reduce the necessity to back up all the heads in the event of a thread break.
Additionally, in typical machines which employ mechanical apparatuses to pull thread from the spool, the amount of thread pulled from the spool for each stitch may not be consistent, due to geometrical variations which occur from stitch to stitch. This inconsistent amount of thread pulled from the spools results in differing thread tension from stitch to stitch,
Block Jeffrey T.
Dickeson Michael E.
Henz Jurg
Kern Peter
Pearson Dean Gerald
Melco Industries Inc.
Nerbun Peter
Sheridan & Ross P.C.
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