Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
2000-11-01
2003-02-25
Krass, Frederick (Department: 1614)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S047000, C424S070210, C424S485000, C424S487000, C424S043000, C424S070120, C424SDIG001, C514S937000, C514S944000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06524596
ABSTRACT:
The invention relates, in general, to an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic composition containing an aqueous dispersion of insoluble particles of fixing polymer, in particular for the treatment of keratinous fibres.
For ecological and legislative reasons, for many years, a very special interest has been expressed in the production of essentially aqueous cosmetic hair compositions. Now, the use of water-soluble polymers poses problems of viscosity for the compositions. For this reason, the use of aqueous dispersions of insoluble particles of polymers in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic compositions has proved particularly advantageous. In addition, aqueous dispersions of insoluble particles of polymer material (latex) make it possible to obtain a more rapid drying time for aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic compositions.
Such cosmetic compositions comprising an aqueous dispersion of polymer material are described in numerous documents, such as the French patents and patent applications in the name of the company L'OREAL No. 95 09772 (cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of nonionic polymer), No. 95 12235 (cosmetic composition comprising a graft silicone polymer and an aqueous dispersion of nonionic or cationic polymer), No. 95 09773 (cosmetic composition containing an aqueous dispersion of polymer and an insoluble silicone), International Applications WO 95/28908 and WO 95/28909 (composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of insoluble polymer and a water-soluble polymer and composition containing an aqueous dispersion of insoluble polymer), and the document EP-0,688,557 (composition for treating hair, comprising a water-soluble polymer and an aqueous dispersion of an insoluble polymer).
However, the use of the aqueous dispersions of insoluble polymers or latex has two disadvantages:
their removal with the aid of a shampoo is sometimes difficult because of their resistance to water; and
their removal during brushing is also often difficult.
Indeed, the latexes often leave, after entanglement, small fragments of film or residues which remain stuck to the hair and damage the good cosmetic performance of the composition (disentanglement, soft and natural touch), in particular of lacquers.
Although the addition of water-soluble polymers to the compositions containing aqueous dispersions of insoluble polymers partially overcomes the problems of the removal with shampoos, the problem of their removal by brushing remains.
Now, the applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by using, in particular for the retention and/or the fixing of the hairstyle, aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic compositions comprising an aqueous dispersion of insoluble particles of fixing polymer, leading to defined properties of sticking to the hair, it was possible to obtain the desired hairstyle retention performance while avoiding the drawbacks of removal during brushing and of residues mentioned above.
The subject of the present invention is therefore an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for the retention of the hairstyle, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an aqueous dispersion of insoluble particles of fixing polymer, the aqueous composition being such that the energy for the sticking of the material resulting from drying to the keratinous fibre is on average less than 200 microjoules in the test of sticking after drying defined below, and preferably less than 100 &mgr;J.
Preferably, additionally, the composition is such that the percentage of keratinous fibres leading to a material resulting from drying-fibre sticking energy greater than 200 &mgr;J in the sticking test is less than 15%.
In the context of the present application, “cosmetic composition for the retention of the hairstyle” is understood to mean any composition whose function is to temporarily fix the shape of the hairstyle, such as for example hair-styling lacquers and sprays, hair-styling gels and mousses.
“Fixing power of the composition” designates the capacity of the latter to give cohesion to the hair such that the initial shaping of the hairstyle is retained.
“Fixing polymer” is understood to mean any polymer whose function is to fix the shape of the hairstyle.
According to the present invention, “keratinous fibres” is understood to mean the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and more particularly the hair.
The energy for the sticking of the keratinous fibre to the material resulting from drying is defined as being the energy, in the test described below, at which the keratinous fibre separates from the material or at which the material breaks.
The sticking test according to the invention is described in relation to FIG. 1 which schematically represents a test sample.
To produce a sample for the sticking test according to the invention, the first step consists in pasting an eyelet
2
in the top portion of a glass slide
1
. There are then deposited inside the hole
3
of the eyelet, which has a diameter of 3 mm, 4 &mgr;l of a composition containing at least one aqueous dispersion of insoluble particles of polymer.
Immediately after depositing the drop of composition to be tested, a previously calibrated keratinous fibre (about 90 &mgr; in diameter) is placed on it.
The fibres are previously all oriented in the same direction, namely in the root-tip direction.
At least 30 sample slides are used so as to have a sampling which is as representative as possible.
The slides are then allowed to dry in a conditioned room for 12 hours.
The determination of the sticking of the fixing material/keratinous fibre is carried out on 30 samples using an extensometer of the INSTRON 1122 or LLOYD type, controlled by a computerized system.
In this test, the glass slide is kept in place by the lower jaw and the keratinous fibre is held firmly at 8 mm from the top edge of the bonding by the movable upper jaw of the extensometer. The pulling rate used is 10 mm/minute, and the measurements are made at 22° C.±2° C. and in an atmosphere having a relative humidity of 43%±3%.
This test demonstrated two main types of individual behaviour.
In a first behaviour, the keratinous fibre detaches sufficiently easily from the material without an elastic deformation of the fibre being observed with the aid of a microscope.
In this first behaviour, the energy for the sticking of the material to the keratinous fibre is less than 200 microjoules.
In a second mode of behaviour, the keratinous fibre detaches with a sticking energy greater than 200 microjoules and with a high level of elastic deformation of the keratinous fibre.
By applying this test to the different fixing materials resulting from the application of compositions containing at least one aqueous dispersion of insoluble particles of polymer, it is possible to select cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions for the retention of the hairstyle, having the desired properties, in particular allowing easy removal of the final material by brushing.
Among the polymers which are suitable for the aqueous dispersions of insoluble particles of polymer material according to the invention, there may be mentioned (meth)acrylic polymers, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyvinyls, polyolefins, polystyrenes, mixtures of these polymers with each other or with other polymers, in particular silicones, provided that the compositions containing these dispersions satisfy the conditions mentioned above.
Generally, the materials resulting from the compositions according to the invention have a glass transition temperature of between 20 and 40° C., which can be optionally obtained by plasticization.
In general, the concentration of active material in the aqueous dispersion according to the invention is between 0.1 and 25% by weight.
As is well known, the aqueous dispersions of polymers according to the invention can be obtained by polymerization or copolymerization in suspension or in emulsion of monomers (such dispersions are also known by the name latex). Pseudolatexes can also be used.
By wa
Dupuis Christine
Samain Henri
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
Krass Frederick
L'Oreal (S.A.)
Ostrup Clinton
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