Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Hair coloring
Reexamination Certificate
2000-01-27
2003-02-11
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Hair coloring
C424S400000, C424S401000, C424S064000, C424S070100
Reexamination Certificate
active
06517823
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a mascara composition, with enhanced gloss properties. The cosmetic compositions of the present invention contain at least one glossy film former, at least one thickener, and at least one wax and have a gloss effect measurement of greater than 50%.
Many conventional cosmetics, including non-pigmented and pigmented cosmetics such as mascara, eyeliner, lip gloss, and blush, have a matte appearance upon application and drying. The applied cosmetic quickly loses its fresh, glossy, or wet look and subsequently appears dull and dry regardless of the addition of pigments and other emollients. For example, conventional mascara formulations have a matte appearance upon application and drying on eye lashes. The wet or glossy look of freshly applied mascara quickly fades and as a result the eyes are left with a dull or dry appearance.
The lack of a glossy appearance is observed regardless of whether an emulsion-based formula or a solvent-based formula is used. This may be due, for example, to the combination of ingredients in a particular cosmetic composition formula or to the small surface area that a cosmetic composition generally covers. In emulsion-based cosmetics, the evaporation of solvents or water leaves behind a layer of waxes, pigments, film formers, and emulsifiers which give a matte look. In the case of solvent-based cosmetics, when the solvent evaporates, again a layer of waxes and pigments is left behind, giving a matte appearance.
Therefore, there remains a need to develop a glossy or wet look appearance for all cosmetic compositions, similar to the glossy/wet look for nail enamels currently on the market. Preferably, a glossy or wet look cosmetic composition would result in a fresh, healthy, and just-applied look, long after the cosmetic composition was applied and had dried.
To achieve these and other advantages, in whole or in part, the present invention is, in one embodiment, drawn to a composition comprising at least one glossy film former, at least one thickener, and at least one wax. The at least one glossy film former has a gloss effect measurement of greater than 50% and the at least one thickener and the at least one wax are present in a combined amount such that the gloss effect measurement of the composition is greater than 50%. The cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, mascara, including hair mascara, eyeliner, lip gloss, and blush. Glossy film formers, thickeners, and waxes useful in the practice of the invention will be discussed in greater detail below.
In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of providing gloss to a cosmetic composition by including in the composition at least one glossy film former having a gloss effect measurement of greater than 50%, at least one thickener and at least one wax. The at least one thickener and the at least one wax are present in a combined amount such that the gloss effect measurement of the composition is greater than 50%.
The present invention is also drawn to a method of making a glossy cosmetic composition by selecting at least one glossy film former having a gloss effect measurement greater than 50% and adding to it at least one thickener and at least one wax in a combined amount such that the gloss effect measurement of the composition is greater than 50%.
Reference will now be made in detail to embodiments of the invention.
Advantageously, the present invention results in a cosmetic composition with high gloss properties. In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one glossy film former having a gloss effect measurement of greater than 50%, at least one thickener, and at least one wax. The at least one thickener and the at least one wax are present in a combined amount such that the gloss effect measurement of the composition is greater than 50%. The cosmetic compositions may be chosen from, but are not limited to, mascara, including hair mascara, eyeliner, lip gloss, and blush. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are emulsified water and oil compositions. In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may be organic solvent based depending on the glossy film former, the thickener, and the wax chosen.
In the context of the present invention, a glossy film former is defined as a film former with a gloss reading of “semigloss” or higher as measured by a gloss meter. A gloss meter, which is commonly used in the nail polish art, measures the amount of light reflected from the surface or film of interest, i.e., the “gloss effect.” The gloss effect is quantified as a % reflectance, which can be categorized as dull (50% or less), semi-glossy (50%-60%), glossy (60%-70%), or very glossy (>70%). For example, a very glossy white ceramic tile has a gloss meter reading of 83.2% while the average gloss meter reading for nail polish is greater than 70% and preferably greater than 80% depending on the type of nail polish tested.
In a preferred embodiment, a cosmetic composition of the present invention has a gloss effect measurement of greater than 60%, more preferably greater than 70% and still more preferably greater than 80%. More details regarding specific types of glossy film formers are given below.
As mentioned above, the evaporation of solvents or water leaves behind a layer of waxes, pigments, film formers, and/or emulsifiers that give a matte appearance. Therefore, in order for a cosmetic composition to dry so that it still looks glossy or wet, each category of ingredients used in a particular composition needs to be evaluated in order to determine the effects of each on the level of gloss produced. For example, the present inventors evaluated the three following categories of ingredients: a) film formers; b) thickeners, and c) waxes. The inventors found that certain combinations of glossy film former, thickener, and wax produced a cosmetic composition that appeared glossy or wet-looking upon drying. To achieve this effect, the inventors used glossy film formers which have a gloss effect measurement of greater than 50% and the thickeners and waxes present in a combined amount such that the gloss effect measurement of the composition is greater than 50%.
Film formers/resins useful in the cosmetic composition of the invention are also able to provide the cosmetic composition with properties such as good adherence to substrates, flexibility, good wearability, good drying time, non-tackiness, good retention, transfer-resistance, and/or low migration over time, among other properties. Preferably, film formation occurs when the solvent evaporates at a rate that allows a film to form continuously and substantially free from imperfections.
The gloss properties of numerous film formers and mixtures of film formers are evaluated by applying a film former or mixture of film formers onto a substrate such as a ceramic tile. Once dry, the gloss properties of the film former(s) are measured with a gloss meter. In addition, the film former(s) can be visually evaluated for shine, water resistance, smudging, hardness and other properties. Based on these results, the skilled artisan will know how to choose a glossy film former having the desired gloss properties as well as other desirable film forming properties. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one film former would have the best observable gloss, water resistance, smudge resistance, hardness, transfer-resistance and other desirable properties.
Based on evaluations of gloss properties like those described above, it was found that glossy film formers useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, copolyester, ethyl ester PVM/MA copolymer, VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate terpolymer, VA/acrylates copolymer, ethyl acrylates/methyl methacrylates copolymer, PVP, styrene/acrylates copolymer, VA/ethylene copolymer, methacrylate copolymer, dimethicone/sodium PG-propyldimethicone thiosulfate copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, PVPNA copolymer, and PPG-17/urethane/DMPA
Kanji Mohamed
Norman Greg
Bennett Rachel M.
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
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