Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Topical sun or radiation screening – or tanning preparations
Reexamination Certificate
2002-09-20
2003-09-23
Dodson, Shelley A. (Department: 1616)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Topical sun or radiation screening, or tanning preparations
C424S060000, C424S400000, C424S401000, C424S725000, C424S778000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06623725
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The invention relates to a cosmetic compact or cream powder which has self-tanning and optionally light-protecting characteristics.
2. Description of the Related Art
It is known to produce dihydroxy acetone (DHA) based self-tanners in the form of various liquid emulsions or gels. In many cases however, further additives are necessary in order to stabilize these products. For example, EP-B-752842 describes a DHA composition which contains certain sulphite salts and optionally amino acids. According to WO96/31190, DHA is combined with lecithins and optionally sterols and then heated in an aqueous solution and encapsulated in liposomes in order to obtain a stable product.
In regard to the manufacture of pressed powders or cream powders, there is the problem that these normally contain wax portions which have to be heated up to 60-85° C. in order to enable the other ingredients of the formulation to be added. However, DHA increasingly tends to partially react with other constituents at these high temperatures so that the tanning capacity of the product is lost to a varying degree. Therefore, hardly any such powders have been manufactured to date and there are no such products available on the market.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The object of the invention is to provide compact or cream powders which have a very good coloration effect based on self-tanning agents which are distributed in a stable, homogeneous manner and in which the dihydroxy acetone portion is fully used for coloration.
According to the invention, the cosmetic compact or cream powder consists of a self-tanning agent selected from among mixtures of dihydroxy acetone (DHA) and mahakanni (
Eclipta alba
Hassk) extract and mixtures of DHA, mahakanni extract and tulips extract, additional chromophore pigments, a wax or a mixture of several waxes, a powder base and optionally additional cosmetic auxiliaries and active agents in stable homogeneous distribution, the mahakanni extract being an aqueous extract containing 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon and eumelanin and the tulips extract being an aqueous extract from tulips exposed to UV radiation containing thymine and pyrimidine dimers and mixtures thereof.
The use of a mixture of DHA and mahakanni is particularly advantageous. mahakanni is a natural tanning colour obtained from the mahakanni plant (
Eclipta alba
Hassk) which substantially consists of 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon and Eumelanin and which brings about a particularly natural brown skin colour. The exact Latin name is
Eclipta alba
Hassk (Syn)
Eclipta prostata.
The self-tanning effect can be increased by adding a tulips extract (Tulipa; from garden tulips and wild tulips, particularly DNA-rich tulip species). The said extract has high contents of dimers and nucleotides and is produced and marketed by Greentech, St. Beauzire, France under the name TULIPA NUCLEOTIDS. The extract has high contents in the range of 8-40% by weight of thymine and/or pyrimidine dimers and brings about a clear pigmentation effect when applied on to the skin.
Preferably, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon is contained in the range of 37-42% by weight and Eumelanin is contained in the range of 47-52% by weight relative to the total content of the constituents contained in the mahakanni extract.
The mahakanni extract further contains ascorbic acid, lecithins, shpingomyelin, &bgr;-carotene and phosphosphingolipid in an overall concentration ranging from 7 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.
The mahakanni extract, which is preferably encapsulated in liposomes, can be used in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder. The extract has a refractive index of 1.4-1.5 and does not contain any isoflavonoids.
The tulips extract, which can also be encapsulated in liposomes, is added into the powder in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder.
The DHA concentration is in the range of 0.1-5% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder.
The powder according to the invention can further contain a sunscreen in the form of a UV filter.
The invention enables substantially the whole portion of the self-tanning agent to be effective within the formulation and to avoid or considerably delay losses or side reactions of the DHA. In particular, a correct pH value of the premix, i.e. a mixture made up of part of the pigments, DHA and optionally the sunscreen, considerably contributes to that the mixture can be added in a problem-free manner and a stable formulation is obtained. The pH value can be influenced as necessary by adding known, cosmetically acceptable pH adjusters such as EDTA, acetic acid, citric acid, etc.
By avoiding reaction-induced losses, the content of chromophore constituents, particularly DHA, can be adjusted much more precisely, not to say it becomes possible for the first time to almost exactly adjust the concentration of the said constituents.
The overall content of self-tanning agents is in the range of 1-15% by weight relative to the entire composition, the mixture containing max. 5% by weight of DHA, 10% by weight of mahakanni extract and 10% by weight of tulips Extract. There are no restrictions as regards the miscibility of mahakanni extract and tulips extract with one another and the respective quantities are determined in accordance with the tanning effect desired. The same is true of the miscibility of the two extracts with DHA.
Substances which can be selected as pigments, pigment mixtures or powders having a pigment-like effect, including such ones which have a gloss effect, include e.g. iron oxides, natural aluminium silicates such as Ochre, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Silica, Mica, Kaolin, clays containing manganese such as Umber and Red Bole, Calcium Carbonate, Talc, Mica-Titanium Oxide, Mica-Titanium Oxide-Iron Oxide, Bismuth Oxychloride, nylon globules, ceramic globules, expanded and non-expanded synthetic polymer powders, powdery natural organic compounds such as ground solid algae, ground parts of plants, encapsulated and non-encapsulated cereal starches and mica-titanium oxide-organic colour.
For the aqueous-alcoholic pigment solution or suspension, monovalent alcohols are used, e.g. ethanol, iso-propanol, n-propanol or mixtures thereof. Polyvalent alcohols can also be used, e.g. glycerine, a propane diol or a butane diol, advantageously also a mixture of two or more thereof.
The alcohol concentration is in the range of 1-10% by volume relative to the pigment solution or suspension.
Preferably, Octyl Methoxycinnamate is used as organic sunscreen (filter). Other suitable filters are Benzophenone-3, Butyl Methoxybenzoylmethane or 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor or mixtures thereof. The concentration of the said filters can be in the range of 1-10% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder. It has been found that DHA is stabilized very well if DHA and a sunscreen of the aforesaid types are present at the same time.
In addition to the alcohol-soluble organic sun filter, a water-soluble organic sun filter can be contained. These include e.g. Benzophenone-3 and Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid. The concentration of these water-soluble filters can be in the range of 2-15% by weight.
The powder according to the invention can have a Sun Protection Factor of 5 to 15 provided it contains the corresponding sun filters.
The powder according to the invention can contain further cosmetic active agents, e.g. antioxidants or scavengers, preservatives, moisturizing substances, fragrance, polar and non-polar oils, polymers, copolymers, emulsifiers, stabilizers, plant-based active agents, polymers, anti-inflammatory natural active agents.
Antioxidants include vitamins, such as Vitamin C and derivatives thereof, e.g. ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate; Vitamin A and derivatives thereof; folic acid and derivatives thereof, Vitamin E and derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate; flavons or flavonoids; amino acids, such as his
Golz-Berner Karin
Zastrow Leonhard
Coty B.V.
Dodson Shelley A.
Pendorf & Cutliff
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