Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Reexamination Certificate
2000-07-13
2002-12-03
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
C424S070200, C424S070500
Reexamination Certificate
active
06488920
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Hair straightening has been used by many ethnic populations to produce a smoother texture and straighter appearance for more than 100 years. The initial method for straightening involved hot irons and coating the hair in petroleum. The result of this “straightening” process often resulted in burning the hair off. If not, this produced “straight” hair styles which were short and over time caused the hair to break, resulting in shorter more brittle hair. This effect was amplified as straightening products were repeatedly used in the hair. The first commercial products, which have been available for over 70 years, were based on sodium hydroxide. While the amount of sodium hydroxide in the products has decreased over the years, the chemistry involved, and the methodology used has changed little over the years. Newer fixatives and conditioners have improved the texture of the hair to prevent some of the dry and brittle appearance that often results after long periods of using straighteners. However, the ability to grow long hair while straightening is still a difficult beauty challenge.
For the consumer with naturally curly hair, from a style perspective, the consumer either elects to have their hair “natural” leaving the curly texture of the hair as it is, or to use straightening products and have their hair “straight” without curl. The current commercial products do not provide the consumer the option to have a hair style which is “in between”. An active life style which adds perspiration to the straightened hair can cause the relaxed hair to be dry, brittle and unmanageable. Extended use of the available straightening products can damage and weaken the hair resulting in hair that is short and brittle with little control.
There are two types of hair straightening products currently available in the U.S. cosmetic market. The first class is those based on a caustic “lye” formulation. The products in this class are sometimes labeled as “lye” or “no lye”. The lye based products contain the active ingredient sodium hydroxide. This chemical is very alkaline and is the same ingredient contained in drain cleaners. Other products in this class are referred to as “no lye” but only contain a different positive cation with hydroxide producing the same class of alkali chemical. The most common are calcium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Calcium hydroxide is often used in plaster and cement, while potassium hydroxide can be extremely corrosive. These formulas are commonly used in the commercially available hair straighteners bought for home use. These products are easy to apply and have a long history of use. As strong alkali products, these formulations can cause severe burns and are very hazardous to skin scalp and mucus membranes. These products carry specific label warnings to avoid contact with the skin.
The second class of products are ammonium thioglycolate based, often referred to as “thio” straighteners or “perms”. These products are also alkaline and are most commonly used by professional beauticians. Without careful use by a professional, these products can be a depilatory in addition to causing severe bums. This product was originally developed from the permanent wave.
Both of the current straightening methods work in the hair essentially the same way. Both classes soften the hair and cause a swelling action to the shaft, sometimes up to three times the diameter of the hair. The product penetrates into the cortical layer and the cross bonds of sulfur and hydrogen are broken. The action of the combs and or hands smoothing the hair distributes the chemicals and straightens the softened hair. The hydroxide content ranges between 2 and 10 percent and produces a pH of greater than 10 (often as high as 12 or 13). In the hair this is considered to be a strong alkali. The higher the pH the faster the chemical reaction initiates hair straightening, the greater the softening of the hair and the greater the damage that can be done to the hair. Ammonium thioglycolate works essentially the same way with a less dramatic action than the hydroxide based formulas, and is assumed by the cosmetologist to be gentler to the hair.
One particular drawback of the current commercial products is that they are caustic in nature, with a pH of greater than 10, which weakens the hair shaft and causes hair damage. Specifically, the pH of hair varies over the length of the strand between about 4.9 and about 6.2, with more acid at the scalp than at the tips of the hair. Disulfide bonds are not permanently affected at pH levels between 2 and 6, but salt bonds can be affected at pH levels below 4. This is why typical caustic prior art straighteners operate at pH levels above 10. The hair cannot buffer itself against pH changes, so it is important to control pH within a specified range in order to maintain effectiveness of the hair treatment product and prevent permanent hair damage. As hair cannot regenerate, only grow out, permanent damage to the hair can affect the individual for a long period of time.
Since hair in its normal state is slightly acidic, the use of an acid to straighten hair should provide more protection to the hair. Other attempts have been made to produce a product having an acidic pH. However, previous acid-based compositions change the color of light hair, such as blonde hair or grey hair, to either green or black. The hair can also be “bleached” out leaving it dry and brittle.
Additionally, traditional straightening compositions cause lanolization, i.e., produce hair that is permanently chemically altered and unable to reform the natural bonds. This process compromises the strength of the hair in order to produce the straight look. As a result, the hair cannot later be easily or safely styled with curls because the hair has lost its resilience. Further, traditional straightening products cause a permanent change in the hair chemistry, producing hair that is completely straight.
Further, traditional thio straightening product have a strong negative odor. The odor is difficult to mask, even with the addition of fragrance. Many consumers liken it to “rotten eggs”.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a curl relaxation composition that attempts to overcome the above drawbacks. Instead of having a caustic or alkali formulation, the inventive composition is based on an acidic preparation that uses the natural hair chemistry to produce a more gradual and gentle straightening while adding combability and manageability to the hair. Additionally, the composition does not alter the natural color of the hair, even when applied to light hair, allowing safe application of the composition to red, blonde and grey hair.
Moreover, the composition does not chemically alter the hair. When applied to the hair, the inventive composition is at a pH that is slightly below the isoelectric point of keratin, the predominant protein in hair. This will temporarily break the disulfide and hydrogen bonds in the hair. This reaction, in combination with covering the hair during processing and smoothing the hair, will produce a straighter, more manageable appearance. When neutralized with a neutralizing shampoo, the disulfide bonds are restored and the hydrogen bonds are restored to the preferred a form, providing strength and durability during styling. The a form also provides shine and luster for the hair. The composition causes a permanent change in the curl of the hair without changing the hair chemistry. As a result, the composition of the present invention gradually relaxes the hair with repeated applications, allowing for more styling freedom. The inventive composition allows the hair to be safely smoothed and styled with curls while conditioning the hair for manageability and bounce. The hair has a more manageable texture, and the work required for combing decreases. This decreases mechanical damage to the hair, allowing its to remain healthier.
Further, preferred compositions in accordance with the invention are substantially odorless. Fragrances can be added to
GT Merchandising & Licensing Corp.
Schweitzer Cornman Gross & Bondell LLP
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