Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
2000-06-20
2002-04-23
Williamson, Michael A. (Department: 1616)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C514S025000, C514S474000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06375961
ABSTRACT:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
Cosmetic compositions containing cumic alcohol, and methods of improving the cosmetic appearance of the skin by applying such compositions to the skin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The human skin consists of two major layers, the bottom thicker layer, dermis and the top thinner layer, the epidermis. Dermis is the layer which provides the strength, elasticity and the thickness to the skin. With aging, the thickness of the dermal layer is reduced and this is believed to be partially responsible for the formation of wrinkles in aging skin. The top layer of human skin or the epidermis which provides the resilience and the barrier properties of the skin, is composed of many different cell types. Keratinocytes are the moor cell type of the epidermis (75-80% of the total number of cells in the human epidermis). Within the epidermis the, keratinocytes reside in four distinct stages of differentiation. Epidermal differentiation is important for providing the essential function of the skin, namely to provide a protective barrier against the outside environment and to prevent loss of water from the body. Formation of the cornified envelope is the final stage of keratinocyte differentiation. The enzyme responsible for the formation of cornified envelopes, transglutaminase, is a marker of epidermal differentiation.
Other factors, in addition to skin thickness, impart the barrier function to the skin. Layers of lipids in the skin form a “water barrier” which prevents water loss from the skin, and, consequently, the appearance of aged, dry or wrinkled skin. These lipids consist predominantly of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. In normal skin, if the barrier function is perturbed, the epidermis re-synthesizes the deficient lipids. Under certain conditions, however, a reduced capacity for re-synthesis may occur. This is especially so with aging or dry skin, where skin lipid levels are in any case sub-normal. In addition, cell metabolism in aging/dry skin is impaired. Decreased uptake and utilization of glucose can lead to decreased metabolism and skin cell turnover leading to the appearance of aged, dry and flaky skin.
Exposure to ultraviolet light and other environmental insuls produce free radical damage in skin cells. Antioxidants, such as ascorbates, help to reduce this damage by decreasing free radical concentrations. Any materials which stimulate the transport of antioxidants into cells may be expected to increase protection from free radical damage.
The present invention is based at least in part on the discoveries that the exposure of cultured keratinocytes to cumic alcohol results in several desirable effects: the enhancement of differentiation, the expression of lipids essential to barrier function, and increase in glucose and ascorbate uptake.
Cumic alcohol (also known as p-isopropylbenzyl alcohol) is an essential oil which is found in trace amounts in licorice root (4 ppm. U.S. Agricultural Research Service, Phytochemical and Ethnobotanical Databases). The Merck Index also lists caraway seed as a source of cumic alcohol, however, the Agricultural Research Service database does not mention cumic alcohol at all in its listing of ion-trivial chemicals in caraway. Licorice and licorice extract have been desciced for use in skin care compositions. U.S. Pat. No. 5.716.800 (MeybecK et al.) mentions licorice extract as a sebum regulator. U.S. Pat. No. 5.565,199 (Page et al.) mentions the use of licorice extract material as an externally applied substance with estrogenic activity. U.S. Pat. No. 5,080,901 (Hangay et al.) mentions the use of licorice in a cosmetic and paramedical anti-inflammatory product. Other publications mention the use of licorice or licorice extract materials for various skin benefits such as sunscreen (J010182416), anti-oxidant (J02204495), whitening agent (J06256150), reduction of contact dermatitis (J04356423, J04356424), antimicrobial cosmetic preservative (J62181202, J09202712), bathing composition for dry skin (J09002939), acne cream (CN1136431) and hair growth (WO9522957).
None of the art cited above mentions cumic alcohol as an active. The Hangay patent indicates that a 50% alcohol extract of licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra, radix) has a dry substance content of 3.5 to 4.5%. Although an extraction process removes material from the subject of the extraction it does not raise the overall concentration of the material extracted; on the contrary it reduces it, Since the typical concentration of cumic alcohol in licorice root is 4 ppm, that concentration is reduced in the extract solvent and then further reduced in any process of formulation where the extract is used to trace levels.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,871,718 (Lucas et al.) and U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,070 (Trinh et al.) disclose odor-absorbing compositions which may be used on skin. The compositions contain cyclodextrin, which is a molecule capable of complexing odor molecules. The compositions also include a perfume, which may be cumic alcohol. Both patents teach that perfumes in the composition have a tendency go complex with cyclodextrins.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention includes a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:
(a) from 0.001 to 50 wt. % of solubilized cumic alcohol of Formula 1:
(b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
Inventive compositions provide enhanced keratinocyte differentiation and enhanced lipid production and improved glucose and ascorbate uptake, which should result in improved barrier function and, consequently, reduced appearance of lines, wrinkles and aged skin, improved skin color, cosmetic treatment of dry or photoaged skin, improvement in skin's radiance and clarity and finish, and an overall healthy and youthful appearance of the skin.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about.” All amounts are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified.
The term “skin” as used herein includes the skin on the face neck, chest, back, arms, legs, hands and scalp.
The term “solubilized” as used herein means that at least 90% of cumic alcohol present in the final composition is solubilized.
Cumic alcohol has the following structural formula:
Cumic alcohol can be obtained from Sigma.
Cumic alcohol is incorporated in the inventive compositions in an amount of from 0.001 to 50%, preferably in order to maximize benefits at a minimum cost, in an amount of from 0.001 to 10%, most preferably from 0.001 to 5%. Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle
The composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for cumic alcohol in the composition, so as to facilitate its distribution when the composition is applied to the skin. Cumic alcohol must be solubilized and uncomplexed in order to deliver the benefits to skin. Penetration of the stratum corneum would be essential for activity. Cumic alcohol may be dissolved in alcohol for a toner composition. Preferably, the inventive compositions are oil-in-water emulsions, wherein cumic alcohol is dissolved in an oil phase. The emulsions preferably contain at least 80 wt. % water, by weight of the vehicle+Preferably, the amount of water is at least 50 wt. % of the inventive composition, most preferably from 60 to 80 wt. %, by weight of the composition.
Optional Skin Benefit Materials and Cosmetic Adjuncts
According to the present invention, among the beneficial effects of cumic alcohol is its ability to enhance glucose and ascorbic acid uptake into skin cells. While cumic alcohol enhances the uptake of endogenous glucose and ascorbic acid, the uptake may be further increased by adding an additional ingredient to the composition which is selected from the group consisting of glucose, ascorbic acid, or a compound which is known to break down in the skin to
Carson Robert
Granger Stewart Paton
Lange Beth Anne
Patel Krupa
Pillai Sreekumar
Plotkin Ellen
Unilever Home & Personal Care (USA), division of Conopoco, Inc.
Williamson Michael A.
LandOfFree
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