Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification – Dyeing involving animal-derived natural fiber material ,... – Hair dyeing
Reexamination Certificate
1999-12-03
2001-07-03
Liott, Caroline D. (Department: 1751)
Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification
Dyeing involving animal-derived natural fiber material ,...
Hair dyeing
C008S580000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06254647
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention concerns a process for the preparation of a composition for the dyeing of human hair on the basis of a fine, aqueous emulsion, comprising at least one oxidation dyestuff precursor.
Compositions for the permanent dyeing of human hair on the basis of oxidation dyestuff precursors are wide-spread. In general, their application is carried out by a method wherein a composition, usually in form of an aqueous emulsion, comprising at least one oxidation dyestuff precursor, and generally at least one developing and at least one coupling substance, is mixed shortly before application with a composition comprising a peroxide, the mixture then being applied to the hair.
Preparation of this emulsion is carried out by hot emulsification of the components and subsequent cooling, which naturally takes some time, while not always leading to stable emulsions.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The invention therefore starts from the task of avoiding these problems and providing a process for the preparation of hair dyeing emulsions which saves time and energy, whereby the obtained emulsions also ensure good mixability with the oxidation agent composition, i.e. with aqueous hydrogen peroxide, which, in turn, leads to even distribution of the ready-to-use hair dyeing composition on the hair and thereby to good coloration results.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
According to the invention, this problem is solved by applying a process for the preparation of a hair dyeing composition in form of a stable, aqueous emulsion wherein
a) first the water phase containing the water-soluble surfactants, salts and, optionally other water-soluble additives, in particular oxidation dyestuff precursors, is heated to between 50° and 90° C., in particular to about 60° to 80° C.; then,
b) while maintaining this temperature, fatty components having a melting point between 20° C. and the applied temperature in step a) ranging between 50° and 90° C. are stirred into the water phase; stirring and temperature being upheld until these fatty-phase components are completely melted, and
c) the remaining liquid fatty-phase components are added to the composition thus obtained while the temperature slowly decreases.
Compared to the customarily used hot emulsion technology, this process allows essential savings of time and energy, and thereby also cost savings, as it only requires initial heating with subsequent cooling of approximately 30% of the fatty phase and app. 80% of the total emulsion, whereby cooling also ensues faster due to the separate addition of the liquid fatty-phase components.
The preferred weight proportion of the fatty phase to the water phase in the ready-to-use dyeing emulsion ranges from about 20 to 80 and 50 to 50, in particular from about 25 to 75 and 40 to 60; the preferred weight proportion of solid to liquid fatty-phase components ranging from about 3 to 1 and 1 to 3, preferably from about 2 to 1 and 1 to 2.
The preferred liquid substances in the fatty phase are those fatty acids being liquid, for example, at room temperature, i.e., about 20% to 25° C., in particular oleic acid. The preferred amount of these fatty acids is about 5% to 15%, in particular about 6% to 12% by weight, calculated to the total composition.
Further preferred liquid components of the fatty phase are C
10
-C
22
-fatty alcohol ethoxylates, preferably lauryl, coco and oleyl alcohol ethyleneoxide condensates in an amount from about 5% to 25%, in particular about 10% to 20%, for example about 15% by weight, calculated to the total composition.
Also useful are liquid sugar fatty acid esters, such as saccharose and glucose diesters, in particular dioleates, for example glucose and methyl glucose dioleate in an amount from about 5% to 25%, for example about 10% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total composition.
Further useful components are liquid fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol and polyols, for example, glycerol and propylene glycol.
Suitable solid fatty phase components having a melting point between 20° C., preferably 25° to 30° C., and the temperature from 50° to 90° C. to which the water phase is adjusted at the time of their incorporation in finely-distributed form, are in particular emulsifiers and fatty substances, for example, higher fatty alcohols, such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and fatty alcohol mixtures, higher fatty acid esters, such as glycerol, ethanediol and propanediol fatty acid esters, for example, ethanediol mono- and distearate, 1.2-propyleneglycol mono- and distearate as well as glyceryl stearate.
Further suitable solid fatty phase components are higher fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid and stearic acid monoethanolamide. Preferably used are mixtures of these substances with surface-active properties.
The viscosity of the hair dyeing emulsions prepared according to the invention preferably ranges from about 5,000 to 30,000, in particular from about 10,000 to 25,000, for example, from about 15,000 to 20,000mPa•s, measured at 20° C. in a Brookfield Viscosimeter RVT.
The water phase can comprise water-soluble emulsifiers.
Useful as such are in particular anionic surfactants.
Anionic surfactants suitable within the scope of the invention are present in particular in an amount from about 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably about 0.4% to 2.5% by weight, calculated to the total composition (of the ready-to-use emulsion).
These are anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type, especially, of course, those customarily used in hair treatment compositions, in particular, the known C
10
-C
18
-alkyl sulfates, and the respective ether sulfates, for example, C
12
-C
14
-alkyl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, acyl aminocarboxylic acids, such as lauroyl sarcosinate and glutamate, furthermore monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as the salts of long-chain mono- and dialkyl phosphates constituting mild, skin-compatible detergents.
Additional anionic surfactants useful within the scope of the invention are &agr;-olefin sulfonates or the salts thereof, and alkali salts of sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, for example, the disodium salt of monooctyl sulfosuccinate and alkali salts of long-chain monoalkyl ethoxysulfosuccinates.
Suitable surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyl polyether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof of the formula
R—(C
2
H
4
O)
n
—O—CH
2
COOX,
wherein R is a C
8
-C
20
-alkyl group, preferably a C
12-C
14
-alkyl group, n is a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 17, and X is H or preferably a cation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which can optionally be hydroxyalkyl-substituted, as well as alkyl amido polyether carboxylic acids of the general formula
wherein R and X have the above meanings, and n stands in particular for a number from 1 to 10, preferably 2.5 to 5.
Such products have been known for some time and are on the market, for example, under the trade name “AKYPO®” and “AKYPO-SOFTQ®”.
Also useful are C
8-C
20
-acyl isethionates, alone or in admixture with other surfactants, and sulfofatty acids and the esters thereof.
It is also possible to use amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as water-soluble emulsifiers, in particular also in admixture with anionic surfactants, whereby the total amount should preferably range from about 0.25% to 5%, in particular about 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, calculated to the total hair dyeing emulsion.
Useful as such are in particular the various known betaines such as fatty acid amido alkyl betaines and sulfobetaines, for example, lauryl hydroxy sulfobetaine; long-chain alkyl amino acids, such as cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionate and -acetate have also proven suitable. In detail it is possible to use betaines of the structure
wherein R is a C
8-C
18
-al
Goldwell GmbH
Liott Caroline D.
Norris McLaughlin & Marcus P.A.
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