Use of sphingolipids in the preparation of a cosmetic or dermoph

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Topical body preparation containing solid synthetic organic... – Skin cosmetic coating

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424 43, 424 59, 424 709, 424 7011, A61K 740

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056836848

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BRIEF SUMMARY
This application is a 371 of PCT/FR92/00302 filed Apr. 3, 1992.
The subject of the invention is the use of sphingolipids or analogous compounds, optionally in combination with a chelating agent, in the preparation of a cosmetic, hygienic or dermopharmaceutical composition protecting the skin and hair against the harmful effects of pollution of the atmosphere by heavy metals.
The invention also relates to the novel cosmetic, hygienic or dermopharmaceutical compositions thus obtained.
Specialists currently consider that one of the causes of cell ageing is the weakening in the abilities to defend against free radicals and the oxidation phenomena which they initiate.
It is known that the toxicity of the gaseous pollutants of the air, such as sulphur dioxide, ozone and nitrogen oxides, is related in particular to their free radical initiator activity which causes cell damage in living creatures; see, for example, H. Mehlhorn et al., Free Rad. Res. Comms., Vol. 3, No. 1, p. 193-197 (1987).
Living cells have various means of defense against free radicals. In particular, certain enzymatic systems (such as superoxide dismutases or SOD and glutathione reductases or GR) destroy free radicals.
Moreover, it is known that heavy metals (lead, cadmium, mercury) are atmospheric pollutants whose emissions have notably increased, especially in the urban or industrial environment.
Besides certain toxic effects which are specific to them, heavy metals have the property of reducing the activity of cell defense means (SOD, GR) against free radicals; see, for example, R. S. Dwivedi, J. Toxicol.--Cut. & Ocular Toxicol. 6(3), 183, 191 (1987).
Thus, heavy metals aggravate the toxic effects of gaseous atmospheric pollutants by reducing the efficiency of the natural defense means, and cause an acceleration in the phenomenon of cell ageing.
This is in particular true for the skin and scalp, which are in direct and permanent contact with the external environment.
The harmful effects of heavy metals are reflected in particular by an accelerated ageing of the skin, with a complexion lacking radiance, and premature formation of wrinkles or furrows, and also by a reduction in the strength and a lacklustre appearance of the hair.
The subject of the present invention is to overcome these effects, harmful from the aesthetic and/or health viewpoint, which result from the pollution of the air by heavy metals.
The subject of the invention is thus the use of at least one sphingolipid or sphingolipid analogue as active ingredient in the preparation of a cosmetic, hygienic or dermopharmaceutical composition intended for protecting the skin and/or hair against the harmful effects of the pollution of the atmosphere by heavy metals.
The sphingolipid used according to the invention can be natural or synthetic. It is known that natural sphingolipids comprise various classes of compounds: ceramides, sphingomyelins, cerebrosides, sulphatides and gangliosides.
Among the natural sphingolipids, mention will be made of the ceramides which are known to be the most important constituents of the lipids of the horny layer of the epidermis; cerebrosides, sphingomyelins, sulphatides and gangliosides are present especially in mammalian cell membranes. Commercial ceramides and cerebrosides exist. Natural sphingolipids are extracted especially from plants, animal skins (in particular pig skins), bovine brains, eggs, blood cells, and the like. They can be prepared especially by extraction according to the processes described in Japanese Patent Applications 86/260008 and 87/120308.
The sphingolipids used according to the invention are especially those which correspond to the formula (I) hydroxyalkenyl group having from 9 to 34 carbon atoms, it being possible for the said hydroxyalkyl and hydroxyalkenyl groups to be esterified by an optionally unsaturated fatty acid having from 9 to 34 carbon atoms, R.sub.2 represents -H or the residue of a monosaccharide, an osamine, an oligosaccharide or phosphorylcholine, the said monosaccharide or the said oligosaccharide optionally b

REFERENCES:
patent: 5002761 (1991-03-01), Mueller et al.
patent: 5149860 (1992-09-01), Zysman et al.
West and Todd Textbook of Biochemistry pp. 157-158.
Patent Abstracts of Japan, vol. 11, No. 115 (C-415)(2562) Apr. 1987 re JP-A 61-260 008.
Patent Abstracts of Japan, vol. 11, No. 349 (C-456)(2796) Nov. 1987 re JP-A 62-120 308.

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