Use of particular aminosilicones as post-treatment of...

Details Use of particular aminosilicones as post-treatment of... Use of particular aminosilicones as post-treatment of...

2002-11-08

2004-11-30

Mruk, Brian P. (Department: 1751)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live hair or scalp treating compositions

C424S070200, C424S070600, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070190, C424S070122, C008S405000, C008S406000, C008S410000, C008S421000, C008S581000, C008S632000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06824765

ABSTRACT:

This disclosure relates to the use, as a post-treatment of a process for coloring, with direct dyes or with oxidation dyes, human keratin fibres, such as hair, of a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone.
This disclosure also relates to a process for coloring, with direct dyes or with oxidation dyes, human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising a post-treatment with a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone.
Two main types of processes for coloring keratin fibres exist: “direct dyeing” using, in the presence or absence of oxidizing agents, direct dyes and/or pigments which are colored molecules, giving the fibres a temporary color that fades out after shampooing a few times; and “oxidation dyeing” using oxidation dye precursors and an oxidizing agent, which give the fibres a more resistant color than that obtained with the previous type of dyeing.
The use of an oxidizing agent generally results in a certain level of degradation of the keratin fibre.
There is currently a very marked trend towards increasing the frequency of shampooing, which is reflected by a more substantial degradation of the dyeing results between two applications.
There is thus a need to improve the resistance of colorations with direct dyes or with oxidation dyes, for example, with respect to shampooing.
The inventors have discovered that the use, as a post-treatment on human keratin fibres such as hair, of a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone, allows at least one of the foregoing problems to be solved. This discovery forms at least a portion of the basis for at least one embodiment disclosed herein.
In addition, this post-treatment may improve the condition of the fibre, for example, in the case of a prior coloration in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
As used herein, the phrase “improvement in the condition of the fibre” means a reduction in the porosity or the alkaline solubility of the fibre and an improvement in at least one cosmetic property such as, for example, the smoothness, softness, and ease of disentangling and styling.
This effect can be remanent, i.e. long-lasting.
The porosity is measured by fixing, at 37° C. and at pH 10, for 2 minutes, 2-nitro-para-phenylenediamine at 0.25% in an ethanol/pH 10 buffer mixture (10/90 volume ratio).
The alkaline solubility corresponds to the loss of mass of a sample of 100 mg of keratin fibres under the action of decinormal sodium hydroxide for 30 minutes at 65° C.
One new embodiment relates to a process for the post-treatment in a process for coloring, with oxidation dyes or with direct dyes, human keratin fibres, such as hair, comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II), as defined herein.
An embodiment of the process can improve the resistance to shampooing of the said colourations and/or the condition of the fibre after coloration, for example, in the case of coloring with an oxidizing agent. This post-treatment may take place immediately after dyeing and optional rinsing, or after an interval, and may be performed once only or repeatedly between two colorations.
Another new embodiment relates to a coloring process that comprises applying to human keratin fibres, such as hair, a direct dye composition or oxidation dye composition for a time that is sufficient to develop the color, and following this application, after optionally rinsing, and after optionally drying, with the application of a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II).
Aminosilicones
The at least one aminosilicone is chosen from formulae (I) and (II):
wherein:
m and n are chosen from numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges, for example, from 1 to 1000 and, for example, from 50 to 250 and, in yet another example, from 100 to 200;
n ranges from 0 to 999 and, for example from 49 to 249 and further, for example, from 125 to 175, and m ranges from 1 to 1000, for example, from 1 to 10 and further, for example, from 1 to 5;
R
1
, R
2
and R
3
, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydroxyl radical and C1-C4 alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R
1
to R
3
is chosen from alkoxy radicals.
For example, the alkoxy radical may be a methoxy radical.
The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, for example, from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and further, for example, 0.3:1.
The at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) may have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2000 to 1 000 000, for example from 3500 to 200 000.
wherein:
p and q are chosen from numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, for example from 50 to 350 and further, for example, from 150 to 250;
p is chosen from a number ranging from 0 to 999, for example from 49 to 349 and further, for example, from 159 to 239, and q is chosen from a number ranging from 1 to 1000, for example from 1 to 10 and further, for example, from 1 to 5;
R
1
and R
2
, which are different, are chosen from a hydroxyl radical and C1-C4 alkoxy radicals, with at least one of the radicals R
1
and R
2
being an alkoxy radical.
For example, the alkoxy radical may be a methoxy radical.
The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range, for example, from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, and further, for example, from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and, for yet another example, may be 1:0.95.
The at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging, for example, from 2000 to 200 000, for example from 5000 to 100 000 and further, for example, from 10 000 to 50 000.
The weight-average molecular masses of the at least one aminosilicone is measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature, as a polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are styragel &mgr; columns. The eluent is THF, and the flow rate is 1 ml/minute. 200 &mgr;l of a solution at 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected. The detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
The post-treatment compositions comprising at least one aminosilicone of formulae (I) and (II) may include at least one additional aminosilicone, whose formula is different from formulae (I) and (II).
A product comprising at least one aminosilicone of structure (I) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652®.
Products comprising at least one aminosilicone of structure (II) are sold by the company Wacker under the names Fluid WR 1300® and Belsil ADM 6057®.
When at least one aminosilicone is used, one embodiment involves using the at least one aminosilicone in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise at least one surfactant. The at least one surfactant may be of any nature, for example cationic and/or nonionic.
The silicone particles in the emulsion may have a mean size ranging from 3 to 500 nanometres.
For example, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II), particles in microemulsions may range in size from 5 to 60 nanometres and, for example, from 10 to 50 nanometres. Such particle sizes are measured with a laser granulometer.
For example, a microemulsion of the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II), sold under the name Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker may be used.
The at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may be chosen such that the contact angle with water of a hair treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 90 to 180°, for example, 90 to 130°.
The composition comprising the at least one aminosilicone chosen from formula (I) and (II) may be chosen such that the contact angle of a hair treated with the composition ranges from 90 to 180°; for example, from 90 to 130°.
The contact angle measurement is based on immersing a hair in distilled water. The measurement is derived from evaluating the force exerted by the water on the hair during its immersion in distilled water and the force exerted during its removal. The forces are directly linked to the contact angle &thgr; between the water and the surface of the hair. The hair is hydrophilic when th

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