Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Reexamination Certificate
2002-11-08
2004-11-30
Meuk, Brian P. (Department: 1751)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
C424S070200, C424S070600, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070122, C008S405000, C008S406000, C008S410000, C008S421000, C008S581000, C008S632000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06824764
ABSTRACT:
The present disclosure relates to the use, as a pre-treatment, in a process for colouring keratin fibres, such as hair, with at least one direct dye and/or with at least one oxidation dye, of a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone, as defined herein.
The disclosure further relates to a process for colouring, with at least one direct dye and/or with at least one oxidation dye, keratin fibres, such as human hair, comprising a pretreatment with a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone, as defined herein.
Two main types of processes for colouring keratin fibres exist: direct dyeing and oxidation dyeing. Direct dyeing uses, in the presence or absence of at least one oxidizing agent, at least one direct dye and/or at least one pigment, which comprise coloured molecules. Direct dyeing may give the fibres a temporary colour that fades out after a few shampooings. Oxidation dyeing uses at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one oxidizing agent. Oxidation dyeing may give the fibres a more resistant colour than direct dyeing.
There is at least one need to improve the rise of coloration on fibres, such as sensitized fibres, which may be more porous and may fix the at least one colouring agent to a lesser degree.
The use of at least one oxidizing agent may result, for example, in degradation of the keratin fibre.
There exists at least the need to limit this degradation and its consequences on the cosmetic condition of the fibre.
After considerable research, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the use, as a pretreatment on keratin fibres, such as human hair, of a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone as defined herein, allows at least one of the above problems to be solved.
This pretreatment may also improve, for example, the resistance of coloration obtained with at least one direct dye and/or with at least one oxidation dye, for example, with respect to shampooing.
Another new embodiment relates to the use, as a pretreatment of a process for colouring, with at least one oxidation dye and/or with at least one direct dye, keratin fibres, such as human hair, of a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II).
Another new embodiment improves the rise of the colour, for example, on sensitized hair, and/or the condition of the fibre after coloration, such as in the case of coloration with at least one oxidizing agent. The resistance to shampooing of the colorations may also improve.
The phrase “improvement in the condition of the fibre” means, for example, a reduction in the porosity and/or the alkaline solubility of the fibre and a potential improvement in the cosmetic properties, such as smoothness, softness and ease of disentangling and of styling.
This effect may be remanent, e.g., long-lasting.
The porosity may be measured by fixing at 37° C. and at pH 10, for two minutes, 2-nitro-para-phenylenediamine at 0.25% in an ethanol/pH 10 buffer mixture (10/90 volume ratio).
The alkaline solubility may correspond to the loss of mass of a sample of 100 mg of keratin fibres under the action of decinormal sodium hydroxide for 30 minutes at 65° C.
Another new embodiment relates to a colouring process comprising: applying to keratin fibres, such as human hair, a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II); optionally rinsing the fibres; applying at least one direct dye and/or at least one oxidation dye composition for a period sufficient to develop the colour; optionally rinsing the fibres; optionally shampooing the fibres; and optionally drying the fibres.
Aminosilicone(s)
The at least one aminosilicone is chosen from formulae (I) and (II):
wherein:
m and n are chosen from numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1000 and, for example, from 50 to 250, and further, for example, from 100 to 200;
n ranges from 0 to 999, for example from 49 to 249, and further, for example, from 125 to 175, and m ranges from 1 to 1000, for example, from 1 to 10, and further, for example, from 1 to 5;
R
1
, R
2
and R
3
, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydroxyl radical and C1-C4 alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R
1
to R
3
is chosen from alkoxy radicals.
The alkoxy radical may be, for example, a methoxy radical.
The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range, for example, from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, for example, from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, and further, for example, may be 0.3:1.
The at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) may have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2000 to 1000000, for example, from 3500 to 200 000.
wherein:
p and q are chosen from numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, for example, from 50 to 350, and further, for example, from 150 to 250;
p ranges from 0 to 999, for example, from 49 to 349, and further, for example, from 159 to 239, and q ranges from 1 to 1000, for example, from 1 to 10, and further, for example, from 1 to 5; and
R
1
and R
2
, which are different, are chosen from a hydroxyl radical and C1-C4 alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R
1
and R
2
is chosen from alkoxy radicals.
For example, the alkoxy radical may be a methoxy radical.
The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range, for example, from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, for example, from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and further, for example, may be 1:0.95.
The at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) may have a weight-average molecular mass, for example, ranging from 2000 to 200 000, and further, for example, from 5000 to 100 000, and still further, for example, from 10 000 to 50 000.
The weight-average molecular masses of these aminosilicones are measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature, as polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are styragel &mgr; columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/minute. 200 &mgr;l of a solution at 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected. The detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
A commercial product comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may further comprise at least one aminosilicone other than those of formulae (I) and (II).
A product comprising at least one aminosilicone of structure (I) is sold, for example, by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652®.
A product comprising at least one aminosilicone of structure (II) is sold, for example, by the company Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
In another new embodiment, the at least one aminosilicone may be in the form of an an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise at least one surfactant. The at least one surfactant may be chosen from cationic and non-ionic surfactants.
The at least one aminosilicone particles in the emulsion may have a mean size ranging from, for example, 3 to 500 nanometers. Such particle sizes are measured with a laser granulometer.
For example, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II), particles in microemulsions may range in size from 5 to 60 nanometers, and, for example, from 10 to 50 nanometers.
A microemulsion comprising at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) is sold, for example, under the name Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker.
The at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may be chosen such that the contact angle with water of a hair treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 90 to 180°, for example, from 90 to 130°.
A composition comprising the at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may be chosen such that the contact angle of a hair treated with the composition ranges from 90 to 180°, for example, from 90 to 130°.
The contact angle measurement is based on immersing a hair in distilled water. The measurement may be derived from evaluating the force exerted by the water on the hair during its immersion in distilled water and during its removal. The forces are directly linked to the contact angle &thgr; between the
Devin-Baudoin Priscille
Sabbagh Anne
Elhilo Eisa
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
Meuk Brian P.
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