Use of cinnamic acid or of its derivatives in a cosmetic...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice

Reexamination Certificate

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C514S969000, C514S846000

Reexamination Certificate

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06267971

ABSTRACT:

The invention relates to the use of cinnamic acid, or of at least one of its derivatives, in a cosmetic firming composition. In particular, the compositions of the invention are intended to stimulate the restructuring of the skin and/or mucous membranes by stimulating the synthesis of collagen.
The invention also relates to a firming composition comprising cinnamic acid or at least one of its derivatives.
Human skin consists of two compartments, i.e. a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.
Natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells: the keratinocytes, which form the great majority, the melanocytes and the Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, by virtue of its intrinsic functions, towards the essential role played in the body by the skin.
The dermis gives the epidermis a solid support. It is also the epidermis, nourishing factor. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and of an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance known as ground substance, these components being synthesized by the fibroblasts. Leukocytes, mastocytes and tissue macrophages are also found therein. It is also composed of blood vessels and nerve fibres. In normal skin, i.e. skin which is not pathological or scarred, the fibroblasts are in the quiescent state, i.e. non-proliferative, of low metabolic activity and immobile.
The collagen fibres give the dermis solidity. They are very strong but are sensitive to certain enzymes known as collagenases. In the dermis, the collagen fibres consist of fibrils sealed together, thus forming more than ten different types of structures. The solidity of the dermis is mainly due to the overlapping of the collagen fibres packed against each other in all directions. The collagen fibres contribute towards the elasticity and tonicity of the skin and/or mucous membranes.
The collagen fibres are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, which leads to thinning of the dermis. However, this thinning of the dermis is also due to pathological causes such as, for example, the hypersecretion of corticoid hormones, certain diseases (Marfan's syndrome, Ehlers-Danlos syndrome) or vitamin deficiencies (scurvy). It is also accepted that extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet radiation, tobacco or certain treatments (retinoic acid and derivatives, glucocorticoids, vitamin D and derivatives, for example) also have an effect on the skin and on its level of collagen. Degradation of the collagen fibres results in the appearance of loose, wrinkled skin which people have always tried to combat, since skin which looks smooth and taut is preferred.
Moreover, during the menopause, the main changes relating to the dermis are a decrease in the level of collagen and in the thickness of the dermis. In menopausal women, this results in thinning of the skin and/or mucous membranes. Women thus experience a sensation of “dry skin” or of skin which feels tight and an increase in the level of surface wrinkles and fine lines is observed. The skin looks rough to the touch. Lastly, the skin is less supple.
It is demonstrated that women lose 2.1% of their level of collagen per year after the menopause and that 30% is lost in the first five years after the menopause.
The importance of the presence of collagen fibres in the skin and the importance of maintaining, or even reinforcing, their presence can thus be appreciated.
It is thus important to have available products whose effects are directed towards maintaining the level of collagen in the skin and maintaining the skin's smooth and taut appearance.
In this regard, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that cinnamic acid or its derivatives have the property of stimulating the synthesis of collagen.
Cinnamic acid is present in trans form in the essential oils of basil or of cinnamon, in Peruvian balsam and in cocoa leaves. The cis form is present in the oil from
Alpinia malacensis.
In the prior art, cinnamic acid or its derivatives are known to be used in compositions for preventing bedsores (JP 07 242 558), as an anti-ultraviolet active agent (U.S. Pat. No. 5,093,109), in permanent-waving compositions (DE 3,301,515, DE 2,912,477 and EP 22,996), in hair lotions (JP 7,053,401 and JP 3,041,413), in depigmenting compositions (JP 5,221,845 and JP 1,186,811) and as antioxidant (EP 664,290).
To the Applicant's knowledge, the use of cinnamic acid or of its derivatives to stimulate the synthesis of collagen has never been described in the prior art.
The subject of the invention is thus the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the composition being intended to stimulate the synthesis of collagen.
Thus, according to the invention, the cinnamic acid or its derivatives can be of natural or synthetic origin. The term natural origin refers to cinnamic acid, or its derivatives, prepared from plant material in which they are found in the natural state. The term synthetic origin refers to cinnamic acid, or its derivatives, prepared by chemical synthesis or by biotechnology.
Thus, in the text hereinbelow, the term cinnamic acid is understood to denote cinnamic acid, or its derivatives, of natural or synthetic origin, in purified form or any preparation containing them.
Among the cinnamic acid derivatives which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of mono- and polyhydroxycinnamic acids, alcohols, aldehydes, esters and derivatives.
Cinnamic acid is preferably used according to the invention.
Needless to say, it is possible according to the invention to use cinnamic acid or its derivatives alone or as a mixture.
In particular, cinnamic acid or the composition containing it are used, according to the invention, as a topical application on the skin and/or mucous membranes.
It has been seen above that collagen is involved in the solidity of the dermis, thus in the firmness of the skin and/or mucous membranes.
Hence, one of the aspects of the invention is thus to propose the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic acid or the composition being intended to reduce the signs of ageing on the skin, more particularly to reduce the appearance of loose and/or wrinkled skin.
Another aspect of the invention is thus to propose the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic acid or the composition being intended to stimulate the firming of the skin and/or mucous membranes.
According to another aspect also, the subject of the invention is the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic acid or the composition being intended to promote smoothing of the skin and/or to tighten the skin.
According to yet another aspect, the subject of the invention is the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic acid or the composition being intended to combat the effects of the menopause on the skin, more particularly the effects of the menopause on collagen.
The amount of cinnamic acid which can be used according to the invention obviously depends on the desired effect and must be in an amount which is effective for stimulating the synthesis of collagen.
For example, the amount of cinnamic acid which can be used according to the invention can range, for example, from 10
−6
% to 10% and preferably from 10
−3
% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
It is possible to use, in the compositions of the invention, the cinnamic acid in combination with another product which stimulates collagen synthesis. Among these other products which stimulate collagen synthesis, mention may be made of plant hormones or else vitamin C or its derivatives.
Among the plant hormones, mention may be made of auxins such as 3-indoleacetic

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