Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
1999-08-20
2001-02-13
Dodson, Shelley A. (Department: 1616)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S059000, C424S074000, C424S195110, C514S783000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06187325
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to the use of at least one extract of a rosacea of the genus Sanguisorba in a cosmetic composition and/or for producing a dermatological composition, with the extract and/or the composition being intended for promoting pigmentation of the skin and/or the body hair and/or the cranial hair, as well as to the use of at least one extract of a rosacea of the genus Sanguisorba as a propigmentation agent and/or simulator of melanogenesis in a cosmetic composition and/or for producing a dermatological composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for pigmenting the skin and/or the body hair and/or the cranial hair, which process consists in applying, to the skin and/or the body hair and/or the cranial hair, a composition which comprises at least one extract of a rosacea of the genus Sanguisorba.
The color of the cranial hair and the human skin depends on a variety of factors, which, in particular, include the seasons of the year, and the race, sex and age of the individual. Color is principally determined by the concentration in the keratinocytes of melanin, which is produced by the melanocytes. The melanocytes are specialized cells which synthesize melanin using special organelles, i.e. the melanosomes.
The synthesis of melanin, or melanogenesis, is particularly complex and, in outline, involves the following main steps:
Tyrosine→Dopa→Dopaquinone→Dopachrome→Melanin
Tyrosinase (monophenoldihydroxylphenylalanine:oxygen oxidoreductase/EC 1.14.18.1) is the essential enzyme involved in this sequence of reactions. In particular, the enzyme catalyzses the reaction in which tyrosine is transformed into dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) and the reaction in which dopa is transformed into dopaquinone.
In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit, which consists of one melanocyte surrounded by approximately 36 neighboring keratinocytes. All individuals, irrespective of phototype, possess approximately the same number of melanocytes in a given area of skin. Ethnic differences in terms of pigmentation are not due to the number of melanocytes but, instead, to the properties of their melanosomes. The melanosomes are aggregated into complexes and are of small size. They are highly specialized organelles whose sole function is to produce melanin. They arise from the endoplasmic reticulum in the form of spherical vacuoles termed premelanosomes. While the premelanosomes contain an amorphous protein substrate, they do not contain any melanogenic enzymes. During maturation of the premelanosome, the amorphous substrate organizes itself into an orientated fibrillar structure along the longitudinal axis of the melanosome. Four stages are distinguished in the development of the melanosome, corresponding to the intensity of the melanization. The melanin is deposited uniformly on the internal fibrillar network of the melanosome, and the opacity of the organelle increases until saturation is reached. As the melanin is synthesized in the melanosomes, the latter move from the perinuclear region towards the ends of the dendrites of the melanocytes. The ends of the dendrites are captured by the keratinocytes, by means of phagocytosis, after which the membranes are degraded and the melanosomes are redistributed in the keratinocytes.
Although the level of melanin varies from one population to another, the quantity of tyrosinase does not vary significantly, and the level of tyrosinase messenger RNAs is identical in white and black skins. The variations in melanogenesis are, therefore, are caused by variations either in the activity of the tyrosinase or in the ability of the keratinocytes to phagocytose the melanosomes.
It is known that, in most populations, obtaining a brown skin color and maintaining a constant cranial hair color are important aspirations.
Furthermore, diseases of the pigmentation exist, such as vitiligo, which is an autoimmune disease which is characterized by the appearance on the skin of white patches which are linked to a defect of pigmentation.
There is, therefore, a genuine need for a product which facilitates and/or improves the pigmentation of the skin and/or of the body hair and/or of the cranial hair.
Numerous solutions have been proposed within the sphere of artificial coloration, involving the provision of exogenous dyes such as DHA, which are supposed to impart to the skin and/or the body hair and/or the cranial hair a color which is as close as possible to the natural color, or in the sphere of natural coloration, involving stimulation of the natural pathways of pigmentation, for example by using active compounds which stimulate melanogenesis with or without the action of UV light such as &agr;MSH or prostaglandins. For example, publications WO-A-9517161, WO-9511003, WO-A-9501773, WO-A-9404674, WO-A-9404122, EPA-585018, WO-A-9310804, WO-A-9220322 and WO-A-9107945 have proposed solutions which are as varied as compositions which contain a phosphodiesterase inhibitor, and the use of prostaglandins, of DNA fragments and of tyrosine derivatives.
While excellent results have certainly been obtained using the solutions which have been proposed in the prior art, the compounds employed either frequently exhibit significant side-effects or are complex mixtures which lack specificity.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Accordingly, one object of the present invention is to provide a composition which affects the pigmentation of the skin, the body hair and/or the cranial hair without exhibiting the troublesome side-effects of conventional compositions.
Briefly, this object and other objects of the present invention as hereinafter will become more readily apparent can be attained by a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: at least one extract of a rosacea of the genus Sanguisorba in a quantity of approximately 0.002% to approximately 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Another aspect of the invention is a method of promoting pigmentation of the skin, the body hair and/or the cranial hair, by applying to the skin, body hair and/or cranial hair a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of a rosacea of the genus Sanguisorba.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
It has now been discovered that, surprisingly, an extract of a rosacea of the genus Sanguisorba, preferably of the species Sanguisorba officinalis, has an activating effect, even at low concentrations, on melanogenesis, without exhibiting any cytotoxicity. This extract makes it possible to obtain natural and deep coloration of the skin, the body hair and/or the cranial hair, as well as protection from UV light, unlike dyes of the exogenous type.
Sanguisorba officinalis is a herbaceous plant of temperate regions, which is also called great burnet and which belongs to the Rosaceae family. The root of Sanguisorba officinalis mainly consists of phenolic compounds and triterpene glycosides. Those phenolic compounds are caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, simple coumarins and furocoumarins, but especially tannins and, in particular, ellagitannins, as well as catechols and gallocatechols. Sanguisorba officinalis also contains organic acids (quinic and tiglic acids) and an essential oil containing terpenoids.
The composition of the Sanguisorba officinalis root justifies its use in traditional Chinese medicine as a hemostatic, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory agent, in particular for use against haemorrhoidal and uterine haemorrhages and as an astringent in the treatment of burns and eczema. The use of Sanguisorba officinalis in anti-ageing cosmetic preparations, on account of its anti-free radical and anti-oxidizing properties, has also been proposed.
Other compositions for topical application to the skin have also been described in EP 0 375 082, JP 03-258711 and JP 63-303910. More specifically, EP 0 375 082 discloses a composition which contains an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis rhizome and a phosphatide of the monoacyl type
Pelletier Pascale
Regnier Marcelle
Dodson Shelley A.
L'Oreal
Lamm Marina
Oblon & Spivak, McClelland, Maier & Neustadt P.C.
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