Use of an ecdysteroid for the preparation of cosmetic or dermato

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Antigen – epitope – or other immunospecific immunoeffector – Conjugate or complex

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424450, 424520, 424538, 514169, 514863, 514873, A61K 3578, A61K 9127, A61K 3512, A61K 3564

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056098731

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BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates essentially to the use of an ecdysteroid for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions intended, in particular, for strengthening the water barrier function of the skin, or for the preparation of a cell culture medium, as well as to the compositions thereby obtained.
The ecdysteroids are a group of 2,3,14-trihydroxy-.DELTA.-7-6-ketosteroids. There may be mentioned .alpha.-ecdysone or (2.beta.,3.beta.,14.alpha.,22[R],25-pentahydroxy-7-cholesten-6-one); 2-deoxyecdysone or (3.beta.,14.beta.,22[R],25-tetrahydroxy-5.beta.-7-cholesten-6-one); ecdysterone or .beta.-ecdysone or 2.beta.,3.beta.,14.alpha.,20.beta.,22,25-hexahydroxy-7-cholesten-6-one; .beta.-ecdysone 22-acetate or 20-hydroxyecdysone 22-acetate or 2.beta.,3.beta.,14,20,22[R],25-hexahydroxy-7-cholesten-6-one 22-acetate; 5-hydroxyecdysterone or 2.beta.,3.beta.,5.alpha.,14,20,22[R],25-heptahydroxy-5.beta.-7-cholesten-6 -one; and 2-deoxy-.beta.-ecdysone or 3.beta.,14,20,22[R],25-pentanydroxy-5.beta.-7-cholesten-6-one. The ecdysteroids, and especially ecdysterone (in some cases referred to as .beta.-ecdysone or alternatively crustecdysone), are well known in the literature and mentioned in the Merck Index, 10th Edition, 1983, page 505, No. 3470.
Ecdysteroids, and especially ecdysterone, are known to play an important part both in the animal kingdom, in insects, and in the plant kingdom. In insects, these hormones play a key part in growth and reproduction. Ecdysterone participates especially in the different metamorphoses occurring up to the formation of the adult insect (see CNRS publication: Biologie 1990, "Enjeux et Probl ematiques" by A. Berkaloff et al.)
In plants, the activity of these substances has not been completely elucidated. They seem to affect flowering (CIENCIA e Cultura (1980), volume 32, No. 10, pages 1384-1390).
It has now been discovered that ecdysteroids, and especially ecdysterone and its acylated, in particular acetylated, derivatives, regulate keratinocyte differentiation.
This differentiation manifests itself especially, at epidermal level, in a greater cellular cohesion, in a regulation of keratinocyte transformation into corneocytes through loss of the nucleus and increase in cellular cornification, and in an increase in the number of layers of corneocytes forming the cornified layer, there phenomena collectively contributing to give the skin a smoother and softer appearance, to strengthen the protective function of the skin with respect to the external environment and to strengthen the water barrier preventing excessive water loss through the epidermis; and, at hair follicle level, to regulate or even increase the synthesis by keratinocytes of keratin, the main constituent of the pilar shaft of each individual hair.
A person skilled in the art may refer in this connection to the paper by Eckert and Rorke published in the Journal Environment Health Perspective, volume 30, (1989), page 109-116.
Thus, the main object of the present invention is to solve the technical problem that consists in providing an approach enabling keratinocyte differentiation to be regulated or promoted and which is, as a result, intended especially for treating skin disorders accompanied by a disturbance of keratinocyte differentiation, such as psoriasis, for restoring, preserving and/or strengthening the protective function of the epidermis, in particular through improvement or strengthening of the cornified layer and the water barrier function, thus leading to a hydrating effect, especially by preventing excessive water loss through the epidermis, en advantageous application of which is the treatment of ichthyotic skins as well as the treatment of psoriatic skins, and for improving the quality of hair, thus making the appearance of the hair more attractive.
The main object of the present invention is also to solve the technical problem that consists in providing an approach that enables the differentiation of skin cells, in particular keratinocytes, to be promoted, accelerated and improved during their cultur

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