Use of a specific particulate phase in a cosmetic...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Particulate form

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S063000, C424S069000, C424S070700, C424S401000

Reexamination Certificate

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06333053

ABSTRACT:

The subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a specific particulate phase in a cosmetic composition, in particular a make-up composition, for the purpose of limiting, decreasing or eliminating blemishes of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, and/or of remodelling the contours thereof, as well as a cosmetic composition, in particular a make-up composition, comprising such a particulate phase.
For a long time, there has been a search for fillers and/or pigments which contribute a soft focus effect, in order to give the skin a uniform appearance and to hide the imperfections thereof, such as the wrinkles or streaks which appear on the lips when a lipstick is applied. These fillers and/or pigments often have complex multilayer architectures, such as those disclosed in Patents KR 91 03105-B, KR 91 03103-B, KR 91 03076-B and KR 91 03074-B, or are particles with a spherical shape, such as those disclosed in Patent FR-A-2,673,372 or in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,082,660, 5,288,481 and 5,320,834. These fillers of the prior art, when they are in the lamellar form or in the form of platelets, have a significant covering power which gives the skin an unnatural appearance. As regards the fillers with a spherical shape, they have a weak scattering effect, resulting in insufficient masking of the imperfections, which implies the need to use them at a high concentration, resulting in the risk of a dry and not very comfortable product.
The inventors have discovered, surprisingly, a novel type of particulate phase which makes it possible, by virtue of the shape of its particles, to obtain novel optical effects, in particular to contribute a soft focus effect and thus to soften the imperfections of the skin and of other keratinous substances and/or to remodel the contours thereof.
The particles of this particulate phase are characterized in that they comprise at least two consecutive faces, the normals of which at the median point form, between one another, an angle at least equal to 90° C., and in that they have mean dimensions ranging from 5 to 100 microns.
A subject-matter of the invention is therefore the use of a particulate phase comprising particles with mean dimensions ranging from 5 to 100 microns and comprising at least two consecutive faces, the normals of which at the median point form, between one another, an angle at least equal to 90°, in a cosmetic composition, in particular a make-up composition, for the purpose of limiting, decreasing or eliminating the blemishes of kertainous substances and/or of modifying the perception of the volume of certain regions of the said substances.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particles comprise at least two nonparallel flat consecutive faces and are therefore polyhedral in shape.
The angle formed by the normals at the median point of two consecutive faces preferably has a value ranging from 90 to 175°. Thus, in the case of two nonparallel flat consecutive faces, the angle at the vertex separating the two flat faces is at most equal to 90°. It preferably varies from 5 to 90°.
The particles of the particulate phase used according to the invention have mean dimensions preferably ranging from 20 to 50 microns.
The particles of the particulate phase used according to the invention have the distinguishing feature of refracting, scattering and reflecting the incident light, funnelling it to produce optimum luminosity and novel optical effects. They make it possible, for example, to illuminate the shadows of the face in order to cause the wrinkles there to disappear or to hide the streaks which appear on the lips when a lipstick is applied. The soft focus effect obtained can also make it possible to refine or to increase the volume of certain parts of the face and the neck and, for example, to remodel the contours of the face. The particulate phase acts as filler and/or pigment.
The particles of the particulate phase used according to the invention have a refractive index of greater than 1, preferably ranging from 1.25 to 1.9 and more preferably from 1.45 to 1.55.
The nature of the particles is not a determining factor. However, the transparency is an important criterion in obtaining the desired optical properties. It can relate to a polymeric particulate phase composed, for example, of poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET), of polyethylene, in particular high-density polyethylene (HDPE), of polypropylene, of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), of polychlorotetrafluoroethylene (PCTFE), of poly(butylene terephthalate) (PBT), of polycarbonates, of polyurethanes, of polythiourethanes, of vinyl, vinylidene or styrene polymers, such as poly(vinyl or vinylidene acrylate)s, of polyacrylic and polymethacrylic polymers, of polythioacrylates and polythiomethacrylates, of transparent silicone resins, of their mixtures and copolymers and of any other biocompatible polymer conventionally used in lenses, in particular ophthalmic lenses.
The particulate phase used according to the invention can also be composed of metal oxides, such as, for example, aluminium, hafnium, silicon, titanium, tungsten, vanadium, zinc and zirconium oxides. Of course, these oxides must be cut along crystalline planes and in particular along triclinic, rhombohedral or monoclinic lattice planes but also cubic, quadratic or orthorhombic lattice planes or be obtained by crystalline growth and exhibit such lattices.
By way of example, the particulate phase used according to the invention can be obtained by milling a modified acrylic resin sheet of A4 format with the reference BEF II (Brightness Enhancement Film II), sold by the company 3M, comprising a flat face
1
and a face
2
exhibiting uniformly positioned grooves
3
, such as represented in the single appended figure. In this instance, the angle A formed by the normals at two nonparallel consecutive faces
4
,
5
is approximately 90°. It follows that the angle at the vertex B between the faces
4
and
5
is approximately 90°.
Another subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic composition and in particular a make-up composition comprising the particulate phase defined above in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
The particulate phase is present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a proportion of 0.5 to 30% by weight and preferably 2 to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention finds a particularly advantageous application in the field of caring for and/or making up the skin of the face, neck and body, keratinous fibres, nails, mucous membranes and/or semi-mucous membranes of human beings. The term “mucous membranes” is understood to mean in particular the internal part of the lower eyelid; the term “semi-mucous membranes” is understood to mean more particularly the lips of the face. The term “keratinous fibres” is understood to mean in particular the eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be provided in the form of a make-up product, in particular a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, a mascara, a concealer or a lipstick, of a care product or of an anti-sun product.
The compositions according to the invention can be provided in the fluid, gelled, semisolid, solid or supple paste form.
They can be provided in particular in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W), such as a cream, a milk or a gel cream, of an aqueous gel, aqueous/alcoholic gel or anhydrous gel which is more or less solid, of a serum, of a powder, of a paste or of a solid stick, and can optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be provided in the form of a foam or spray.
The compositions of the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to a person skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions.
When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of the latter can comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watki

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