Use of a sophorolipid to provide free radical formation inhibiti

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Designated organic active ingredient containing – Carbohydrate doai

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514 53, A61K 3170

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057564710

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BRIEF SUMMARY
This application is the U.S. national stage entry under 35 U.S.C. 371 of PCT/FR95/00768, filed Jun. 12, 1995.
The present invention concerns a novel use of sophorolipids.
The present invention also concerns cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
More particularly, the present invention concerns such compositions with anti-radical and anti-elastasic properties. Such properties are of particular use in compositions intended for skin care and for hair care.
Sophorolipids are glycolipids; they are produced by fermentation of Candida or Torulopsis type yeasts such as Torulopsis magnoliae, Candida bombicola, Candida apicola or Candida bogoriensis.
The constituent glucide of extracellular sophorolipids is sophorose (2'-O-.beta.D-glucopyranosyl-.beta.-D-glucopyranose). This sugar can be acetylated in the 6' and 6" position and is bonded to a fatty hydroxy-acid in the .omega. or .omega.-1 position.
The lipid fraction of sophorolipids, composed of several fatty hydroxy-acids, which differ from each other by their chain length, by the number and position of the unsaturations, and by the hydroxylation position, depends on the lipid composition of the secondary carbon source used in fermentation (vegetable oil of variable richness in saturated or unsaturated lipids).
Such glycolipids are synthesised in the form of a mixture of several classes of sophorolipids which differ by their degree of saturation or unsaturation, by the presence or absence of several types of lactonisation and by their different degrees of acetylation.
The different classes of sophorolipids are as follows:
Two chemical formulae which represent the lactone and acid forms of sophorolipids are shown below: ##STR1## where R=H or CH.sub.3 --CO.
These chemical formulae illustrate the case of the most abundant fatty hydroxy-acid, 17-hydroxyoctadecenoic acid (17-hydroxyoleic acid).
The respective contributions of each constituent hydroxy-acid, as determined using gas chromatography for the different classes of sophorolipids, also the distributions of these classes, are shown below.
The constituent fatty hydroxy-acids of sophorolipids are, for example, as follows:


______________________________________ Types Fatty hydroxy-acids % ______________________________________ C 16:0 15-OH Hexadecanoic 1.5 C 16:0 16-OH Hexadecanoic 2.0 C 18:0 17-OH Octadecanoic 3.5 C 18:1 17-OH Octadecenoic 60.0 C 18:1 18-OH Octadecadienoic 12.0 C 18:2 17-OH Octadecadienoic 7.0 C 18:2 18-OH Octadecadienoic 14.0 ______________________________________
The principal biosynthetic glycolipid production route is carried out using triglycerides or carbohydrates.
The production of glycolipids using micro-organisms does not require the supplemental addition of nitrogen and salt; it takes place when the cell finds a sufficient source of carbon and oxygen.
Glycolipid biosynthesis includes the synthesis of the lipophile portion (fatty acid) and the hydrophilic portion (sophorose).
Glycolipid biosynthesis is characterized by the following factors: (oil) used as the substrate; but is synthesised de novo.
Yeasts from the genus Torulopsis, such as T. magnoliae or T. bombicola (currently classed in the genus Candida) excrete sophorolipids if they are cultivated in the presence of 10% of glucose, 1.25% of yeast extract and 0.2% of urea, for example.
Studies have shown that the rate of sophorolipid production can be increased by addition of esterified long chain fatty acids or n-alkanes or triglycerides to the culture medium.
Processes for the production of acetylated sophorolipids in their acid form by culture of a strain of Candida bombicola or Candida apicola use a substrate consisting of a vegetable oil.
Surfactants are used for body care, dental care, in washing agents and in the pharmaceutical industry as well as in the cosmetics industry. In view of their increasing use, current ecological considerations have led to the study of the biological and toxic properties of these substances. Thus it is known that synthetic surfactants (i.e., non biological surf

REFERENCES:
patent: 4216311 (1980-08-01), Inoue et al.
"Dorland's Pocket Medical Dictionary" W.B. Saunders Company, Philadelphia, PA. 1989, pp. 160 and 168.
Abstract, Week 8008, AN 80-13763C, Database WPI, Derwent Publications Ltd., (JP-A-55 004 344), Feb. 1980.

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