Use of a hybrid polymeric material for coating keratinous...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S061000, C424S063000, C424S064000, C424S070100, C424S078030, C514S944000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06436412

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing an agent capable of forming, on a keratin support, after drying, a deposit or a film consisting of a hybrid polymer material, as well as its various applications as an agent for coating keratin substances, in particular in the field of hair products and in the field of make-up products.
Throughout the description, the term “keratin substances” will be understood to mean substances to be cosmetically or dermatologically treated chosen from the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails and mucous membranes.
Throughout the description, the expression “agent for coating keratin substances” will be understood to mean any material capable of forming a film or a deposit on a keratin support.
Many cosmetic applications make use of the transport of a water-soluble polymer which needs to give, after drying, on the keratin substance to be treated, a deposit or a film which has mechanical and cosmetic characteristics that are specific for the use envisaged. This is the case, for example, for many aqueous make-up products such as aqueous nail varnishes or mascaras and aqueous lipsticks or foundations. This is also the case for many hair products intended for holding the hair style, such as styling gels, mousses and lotions. Finally, this is the case for certain skincare products.
One of the aims of the present invention is to search for, in the context of make-up products for the face, in particular foundations, a novel coating polymer material which gives, after evaporation of the solvent medium, an extremely flexible film which is easy to deform under the action of the facial movements without producing a sticky feel and without transferring onto another support. Conventional foundations generally transfer colour and material by contact or rubbing on a support (fabrics, skin, etc.). Most of the solutions provided to solve this problem make use of polymers which form, after evaporation of the solvent medium, a film on the skin which adhesively bonds and imprisons the pigments. It is very difficult to obtain a deposit on the skin which is both effective, sufficiently flexible so as not to cause discomfort, non-sticky and transfer-resistant.
Another aim of the invention is to be able to make aqueous sticks of lipstick, based on a suitable coating polymer material, which can be manufactured easily by extrusion without heating, are homogeneous, stable and have satisfactory properties of rigidity, hardness, rheofluidization and transparency. A novel coating agent for the lips is also sought which applies easily to the lips and gives a homogeneous, flexible, comfortable, non-sticky, transfer-resistant film which is resistant to water, to saliva and to fatty substances and which has a moisturizing effect, providing moisture, freshness and softness.
Another aim of the present invention is thus to search for, in the context of aqueous mascaras, a novel polymer material for coating the eyelashes which produces, after drying, effects of maintenance, coverage and coloration of the eyelashes which are both resistant to water, to ambient humidity, to washing with aqueous solutions of surfactants and to conventional oil-based make-up-removing products for the face and resistant to dry rubbing (passing the hand over the eyelashes). This same coating material must be able to adhere easily to the eyelashes and to be distributed easily and homogeneously along the eyelashes, without leaving a sticky effect and without transferring. Conventional mascaras do not generally allow all of these aims to be achieved. Formulations based on this material are also sought which have a suitable rheofluidizing nature (fluidization under shear) in order to correctly coat and set the eyelashes all the way to the tip in order to obtain a genuine elongation of the eyelash.
Another aim of the invention is to be able to make aqueous gels for fixing and/or shaping the hair, based on a suitable coating polymer, which has rheological properties which allow the product to be taken up conveniently with the fingers, ease of spreading on the hair and homogeneous and uniform deposition along the fibres. In the context of styling products such as gels, lotions or mousses, a novel coating agent for the hair is also sought which gives a homogeneous, sufficiently flexible or even elastomeric, non-sticky film with good adhesive properties, which is able in particular to withstand ambient humidity (rain) or even shampooing several times depending on the desired cosmetic effect, and which gives a persistent wet look on the hair. The film-forming polymer systems or deposit systems commonly used in conventional styling products do not generally allow all of these aims to be achieved.
Hybrid materials consisting of a crosslinked network obtained by complexing at least one metal cation with at least one water-soluble polymer bearing functional groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds, such as sugars, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides or cellulose derivatives, are known in the prior art; the crosslinking results from hydrogen interactions between the functional groups and the water molecules in the hydration sphere of the hydrated metal cation. In particular, U.S. Pat. No. 4,506,684 describes crosslinked cellulose materials of this type which are intended for the manufacture of tobacco substitutes or additives in cigarettes. Materials of this type have been studied in the following articles:
Bain, Carbohydrate Research,84, 1-12 (1980): “An NMR study of the interaction between cadoxen and saccharides”.
Misra, Vishnu, Carbohydrate Research, 59, 35-46 (1977): “Studies on electrolyte
on-electrolyte interactions; viscosity behaviour of alkali halides in aqueous solutions”.
Kesting, J. of Applied Polymer Science, Vol. 9, p. 663-88 (1965).
Rendleman, Advances in Carbohydrate Chemistry & Biochemistry, 21, p. 209-271 (1966).
Burger, Biocoord. Chem. (1990) p. 236-83.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this type of hybrid polymer material constitutes a noteworthy agent for coating keratin substances, which makes it possible to achieve all of the aims of the invention which have been listed above and which can be used in many forms of cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular in hair products, in make-up products and in skincare products.
The main subject of the invention is thus the use, for coating keratin substances, of a hybrid polymer material which can be obtained from an aqueous solution containing:
(a) at least one water-soluble polymer containing at least functional groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds, and
(b) at least one cosmetically acceptable organic or inorganic salt, of ammonium or of a monovalent or multivalent metal cation; and by physical crosslinking of the said polymer resulting from hydrogen interactions between the said functional groups of the said polymer and the water molecules in the hydration sphere of the said hydrated cation, for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
Another subject relates to cosmetic and dermatological compositions containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one agent which forms, after application to keratin substances, a film or a deposit consisting of a hybrid polymer material as defined above.
Other subjects will become apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
In order to obtain a crosslinking network by hydrogen bonds between the functional groups of the water-soluble polymer and the water molecules in the hydration sphere of the solvated cation, the proportion of ammonium or metal cation salt relative to the weight of the polymer will generally need to be equal to at least 50% by weight, but will not need to exceed the value corresponding to the saturation limit of the electrolyte in water, at the temperature at which the polymer/ammonium or metal cation salt mixture is used. This temperature generally ranges from 100° to 180° C. and more preferably from 20° to 100° C.
According to one specific form of th

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