Use of a guar gum in a process for the temporary shaping of...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live skin colorant containing

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S400000, C424S070100, C424S070130, C424S070700, C424S078030

Reexamination Certificate

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06403066

ABSTRACT:

The present invention is directed to the use of at least one guar gum as the sole shape-retention and/or shaping agent in cosmetic compositions intended for a temporary shaping of keratin fibres, and a method for the temporary shaping and/or deformation of these fibres, in particular in the shape of a hairsetting, using this compound.
It is known that the term “hairsetting” in the field of hairdressing denotes the simple operation which consists in giving the hair a non-definitive and temporary shape, generally a wavy shape, such as gentle curls, tight curls and the like, which disappears immediately once the hair is again made wet, in particular when it is washed with water or with shampoo. This is in contrast to a so-called permanent deformation operation, during which genuine chemical transformations and/or treatments (reduction/oxidation) must be performed on the keratin fibres, the final shape in which the hair is set being no longer at all, or only very slightly, sensitive to the above-mentioned external agents in this case.
The most common technique for achieving a hairsetting, or temporary deformation, of the hair consists in first placing hair, which has been wet beforehand or which is still damp, under tension with conventional supports of the curler or roller type and the like, then drying the hair thus placed under tension under a hairstyling hood heated to a temperature ranging from 30° C. to 60° C. for a period of time which may range from 20 to 60 minutes depending on the mass of hair to be dried, then in removing the means for placing the hair under tension used above from the hair thus dried, and finally, in giving a finishing comb through in order to obtain the hair style with the final shape desired. It is also possible to perform a brushing, which consists in shaping the hair using a brush, while the hair is being dried.
The main drawback associated with these techniques is that they always require the use of holding equipment, i.e., rollers, brushes, grips and the like; while the hair is being dried because while the hair is not dry, it cannot keep itself in the desired shape. On the other hand, these techniques nevertheless have the advantage that the hair keeps a natural and pleasant feel.
In order to shape the hair without holding equipment, it has already been proposed to use compositions in the form of a gel which are generally based on crosslinked acrylic polymers. However, these compositions have the drawback of leaving an undesirable deposit on the hair, which is detrimental to the cosmetic properties of the hair; thus, after this operation, the hair has little sheen and feels coarse and sticky.
An object of the present invention is in particular to solve the above discussed problems.
Even more precisely, an object of the present invention is to provide a process for the temporary shaping of keratin fibres which, while making it possible to do away with the use of the usual holding equipment, is nevertheless capable of giving, after the operation, keratin fibres which are of neutral visual appearance and feel.
Following considerable research conducted in this matter, it has now been found, entirely surprisingly and unexpectedly, that this object and others could be achieved by using, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, at least one guar gum which is present in the vehicle as the sole shaping and/or shape-retention agent for the keratin fibres. This discovery forms the basis of the current invention.
A subject of the present invention is thus the use, in cosmetic compositions intended for a temporary shaping of keratin fibres, of a guar gum as the sole shaping and/or shape-retention agent for the keratin fibres, in particular the hair, the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
More particularly, a subject of the present invention is thus a method for the temporary shaping and/or deformation of keratin fibres, in particular, the hair, the eyelashes, or the eyebrows, which comprises: (i) formulating a cosmetic composition comprising at least one guar gum for the purpose of shaping and/or retaining the shape of the keratin fibres; and (ii) applying the cosmetic composition to the keratin fibres.
Another subject of the present invention is a method for the temporary shaping and/or deformation of keratin fibres, which comprises the following steps: (i) applying to wet or dry keratin fibres, in particular the hair, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one guar gum as the sole shaping and/or shape-retention agent; wherein the at least one guar gum is present in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which is preferably an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic vehicle; (ii) shaping the keratin fibres to which the cosmetic composition has been applied, using a comb, a brush, or the fingers; and (iii) allowing the shaped keratin fibres to dry.
Optionally, the keratin fibres can be styled with a comb, a brush or with the hands following the drying of the fibres.
The guar gums which may be used according to the invention may preferably be chosen from nonionic, anionic and cationic guar gums and mixtures thereof. Nonionic or anionic guar gums are more preferably used.
According to the invention, unmodified or chemically modified nonionic guar gums may preferably be used.
The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the name JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL.
The modified nonionic guar gums which may be used according to the invention are preferably modified by C
1
-C
6
hydroxyalkyl groups.
Among the preferred hydroxyalkyl groups which may be mentioned are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
These nonionic guar gums are well-known in the state of the art and may, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for example such as propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.2 to 1.2, and more preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.
Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the brand names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company Meyhall, or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.
The nonionic guar gums may also preferably be modified with C
1
-C
6
hydroxyalkyl or alkyl groups and with fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups. As is known by those skilled in the art, fatty chains which may be used in accordance with the present invention include derivatives of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and fatty amines.
Such compounds are, for example, described in Patent Applications EP 0,323,623 (U.S. Pat. No. 4,960,876) and EP 0,281,360, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
The anionic guar gums which may preferably be used according to the invention may be modified with anionic groups such as carboxylic or phosphate groups and preferably with carboxymethyl groups.
In addition to the anionic groups, the guar gums may possess C
1
-C
6
hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the preferred hydroxyalkyl groups which may be mentioned are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
Such anionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the brand names GALACTASOL 60 H 3 FD and CARBOXYMETHYL GUAR by the company Aqualon.
The cationic guar gums which may preferably be used according to the invention are guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. In numerical terms, preferably 2 to 30%, and even more preferably 5 to 20%, of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups may preferably be mentioned. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 2

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