Treatments to improve the properties of keratinous textiles

Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification – Chemical modification of textiles or fibers or products thereof – Proteinaceous fibers

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81283, 81157, 8404, 8917, 8582, 8583, 8594, 8586, 8587, 8589, 8597, 8598, 8600, 8606, D06M 13203, D06M 13224, D06M 13402, D06P 304

Patent

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053761456

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
This invention is concerned with the treatment of textiles made from keratinous fibres, particularly wool, but including cashmere, mohair, human hair, rabbit hair and the blends of these fibres with synthetic fibres and/or other types of natural fibres. More specifically, the invention is concerned with textile treatment methods aimed at minimizing, or at least reducing, the incidence of one or more of the following faults produced in existing textile processing methods: dyeing. during dyeing, such as running marks which may occur when fabric is dyed in rope form and permanent moire patterns which may occur in fabric during beam dyeing. in water.
However, the invention is not necessarily limited by these objectives and may produce other advantageous effects.
The problem areas listed above and the benefits sought by the methods of the present invention are described in more detail as follows:
1. Loss of Bulk During Dyeing
It is known that as a result of dyeing by conventional methods, at or near 100.degree. C., yarns and fabrics made from keratinous fibres often lose bulk. In other words, after dyeing, the volume occupied by a given weight of dry, fully relaxed yarn or fabric is less than the volume of the fully relaxed, undyed material.
When loss of bulk results from dyeing, the yarn or fabric invariably has been constrained under tension or flattened during the dyeing process and becomes permanently deformed. Examples of dyeing methods in which bulk is lost are: cones or tubes to form cheeses which are dyed by circulating dye liquor radially through the packages. perforated beam and then dyed by circulating liquor radially through the rolled-up fabric.
The practical consequences of loss of bulk are undesirable in may cases. Yarns may lose bulk to the extent that they are unsuitable for certain end uses. This particularly applies to many types of hand-knitting yarns, but also is true for some types of machine-knitting yarns. Fabric may be unacceptably flattened or develop moire patterns. In such cases, fabric and yarn must be dyed by methods in which bulk is not lost. However, such methods may incur economic or logistic penalties. For example, crepe hand-knitting yarns are almost invariably dyed in hank form, in order to retain their bulk, even though package dyeing is generally cheaper.
No chemical methods to prevent permanent flattening of fabric as a result of beam dyeing have been reported. The only known chemical method for minimizing the loss of bulk during package dyeing is by addition of oxidizing agents to the dyebath. (J. R. Cook & B. E. Fleischfresser, Proceedings of the Seventh International Wool Textile Research Conference, Vol. V. p 181, (1985). However, this method has not been used commerically because it produces unacceptable changes in the colours of many dyes, because of their susceptibility to oxidation.
One objective of the present invention therefore, is to provide a novel method for preventing such loss of bulk by treatment of the goods with a particular class of compounds, and, in particular compounds which have little or no affect on the colour yields of a wide range of dyes.
2. Hygral Expansion
Hygral expansion of fabric is the increase in linear dimensions which occurs when fabric absorbs water. It is known that the hygral expansion of fabrics made from fibrous keratins is increased when fabric is heated in water at or near the boil for periods ranging from a few minutes up to several hours, such as occurs in conventional dyeing processes. Moderate hygral expansion of fabric has advantages in some types of tailoring because it aids moulding of fabric into three dimensional structures. However, excessive hygral expansion is undesirable because it causes difficulties in sizing garments during making up and is a cause of seam pucker when garments are worn under conditions of varying relative humidity.
A number of treatments have been found which reduce the hygral expansion of fabric. (A. M. Wemyss & M. A. White, Proceedings of the Third Japan-Australia Joint Symposium on Objective M

REFERENCES:
patent: 4017256 (1977-04-01), Kagel et al.
CA 99: 23953.
CA 106: 68681 k.
CA 108: 77067 h.

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