Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live skin colorant containing – Lip
Reexamination Certificate
1999-08-10
2002-01-15
Dudash, Diana (Department: 1619)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live skin colorant containing
Lip
C424S070700, C424S401000, C424S485000, C424SDIG005, C424S400000, C424S070110, C424S063000, C424S069000, C514S844000, C514S937000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06338839
ABSTRACT:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a transfer-resistant make-up or care composition for the skin, superficial body growths (nails, eyelashes, eyebrows) or the lips, containing a combination of a volatile linear silicone, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and at least one other solvent which more volatile than the silicone. The invention also relates to the use of a combination of a volatile linear silicone and at least one other solvent which is more volatile than the first solvent, as a volatile phase in transfer-resistant make-up or care products for the skin, superficial body growths (nails, eyelashes, eyebrows) or the lips, to a process for preparing such transfer-resistant make-up or care products and to a process for limiting the transfer of a make-up and care composition for the skin, superficial body growths or the lips.
2. Background of the Invention
The development of so-called“transfer resistant” make-up products is currently the subject of considerable cosmetic research. These products, for example foundations, lipsticks, eye shadows or face powders, axe distinguished by the fact that once they have been applied to the skin or the lips, they do not become appreciably deposited on surfaces with which they come into contact (glass, cup, cigarette or clothing, for example).
The first approach for preventing the transfer of applied cosmetic products involves coating them with a layer of products which are renowned for their anti adhesive properties, such as fluoro products or silicone products. However, formulations of this type have the drawback of being relatively unsuitable for cosmetic use. For example, the film of lipstick becomes oily and liable to migrate onto the skin adjacent to the lips and the eyelids.
Another possibility for obtaining transfer resistant products involves using silicone polymers or resins in combination with volatile starting materials which, after evaporation of the latter, leave an inert film which is resistant to transfer onto other surfaces. The volatile starting materials used are, conventionally, cyclic silicones of very low viscosity (less than 3 centistokes) or isoparaffins.
Many transfer-resistant cosmetic formulations, in particular lipsticks and foundations, currently use the cyclic volatile silicone cyclotetradimethyl siloxane, also known as cyclomethicone D
4
, or D
4
, for short, as the main volatile solvent.
This cyclic silicone, generally used in combination with isoparaffins and in particular with isododecane, gives the compositions excellent cosmetic and physicochemical properties (good spreading, nongreasy feel, compatibility with the other constituents of the formulation, suitable speed of evaporation, etc.). However, it has the major and sometimes prohibitive drawback of having an excessively high crystallization temperature. Specifically, since its crystallization point is about 18° C., crystallization phenomena can arise at the surface of make-up compositions when they are stored at low temperature.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
An object of the present invention was to find a volatile solvent or a combination of volatile solvents whose chemical and physicochemical properties are comparable to those of cyclomethicone D
4
, but whose crystallization temperature is markedly lower than room temperature, thus avoiding the crystallization phenomena described above.
The Inventors have now found that it is possible to replace the volatile silicone cyclomethicone D
4
in transfer-resistant make-up or care compositions with a combination of linear silicone, namely decamethyltetrasiloxane, also known as L
4
, and another cosmetic solvent which is more volatile than the linear silicone L
4
. These transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions using the linear silicone L
4
and another solvent which is more volatile than the latter, as volatile solvents for the fatty phase, conserve the advantageous cosmetic properties, such as the non-greasy feel characteristic of transfer-resistant products, a sufficiently fast evaporation speed and easy, homogeneous spreading.
Accordingly, the object of the invention, and others, may be accomplished with a transfer-resistant make-up or care composition comprising, as volatile solvents for a fatty phase, the combination of linear decamethyltetrasiloxane (L
4
) and at least one second solvent which is more volatile than linear decamethyltetrasiloxane L
4.
The object of the invention may also be accomplished with the use of the combination of L
4
and at least one second solvent which is more volatile than L
4
, to give non-transfer properties to make-up or care compositions.
The object of the invention may also be accomplished with a process for preparing transfer-resistant make-up compositions.
Also, the object of the invention may also be accomplished a process for limiting the transfer of a make-up or care composition from the skin, superficial body growths or the lips onto a surface with which the skin, the superficial body growths or the lips come into contact, this process consisting in introducing a combination of a volatile linear silicone and another volatile solvent whose evaporation speed is greater than that of the silicone and as defined above, into the composition.
A more complete appreciation of the invention and many of the attendant advantages thereof will be readily obtained as the same becomes better understood by reference to the following detailed description.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The search for a compound or a mixture of compounds to replace cyclomethicone D
4
, which have comparable volatility to that of the latter compound, required the development of a reliable method for evaluating the evaporation speeds of cosmetic solvents.
The evaporation speeds may be determined in the following way:
15 g of the solvent or of the mixture of solvents to be tested are introduced into a crystallizing dish (diameter: 7 cm) in a temperature-controlled (25° C.) and hygrometry-controlled (50% relative humidity) chamber. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a ventilator (SEMI rotating at 2700 rpm) placed 20 cm above the crystallizing dish containing the solvent. The mass of solvent remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation speeds are expressed as mg of solvent evaporated per unit of surface area (cm
2
) and per unit of time “minute”).
The linear volatile silicone L
4
used in the present invention as volatile solvent to replace cyclomethicone D
4
is a tetramer of dimethylsiloxy units ending with methyl groups. It has a crystallization point of −68° C., a viscosity of less than 3 centistokes and an evaporation speed, measured under the conditions described above, equal to 0.309 mg/cm
2
/minute. Such a silicone is sold, for example, by Dow Coming under the name DC 200 Fluid 1.5 cSt.
Since this silicone has a markedly lower evaporation speed than that of cyclomethicone D
4
, which is 0.626 mg/cm
2
/minute, it is preferably used in combination with at least one second solvent having an evaporation speed at least equal to 0.70 mg/cm
2
/minute, and preferably not exceeding 7.0 mg/cm
2
/minute.
Examples of such physiologically acceptable second volatile solvents include linear or branched alkanes, cyoloalkanes, fluorohydrocarbons, silicones or modified silicones, and mixtures thereof. Among the preferred volatile solvents are 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane (isododecane) and the mixture of isoparaffins sold under the name Isopar E® by Exxon Chemical.
In one preferred embodiment, the second volatile solvent used is the isododecane of formula:
This compound is sold, for example, under the name Permethyl® 99A by Presperse Inc. Under the measurement conditions specified above, its evaporation speed is equal to 0.803 mg/cm
2
/minute.
Other second volatile solvents which may be used are linear octamethyltrisilaxane (L
3
), which has an evaporation speed of 2.34 mg/cm
2
/minute, and hexamethyldisiloxane (L
2
). When the volatile second solvent is o
Arnaud Pascal
Auguste Frederic
Fouron Jean-Yves
Dudash Diana
L'Oreal
Oblon & Spivak, McClelland, Maier & Neustadt P.C.
Ostrup Clinton
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