Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
1999-08-10
2001-12-04
Dudash, Dana (Department: 1619)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S078020, C424S078030, C424S063000, C424S064000, C514S772300
Reexamination Certificate
active
06326012
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a transfer-resistant make-up or care composition for the skin, keratin fibers (eyelashes, eyebrows or hair) or the lips, containing a combination of a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and a functionalized synthetic wax, to the use of this combination to give transfer-resistance properties to make-up or care compositions for the skin, keratin fibers or the lips, as well as to a process for manufacturing such transfer-resistant make-up or care compositions.
2. Background of the Invention
The development of so-called “transfer-resistant” make-up or care products is currently the subject of considerable cosmetic research. These products, for example foundations, lipsticks, eyeshadows or face powders, are distinguished by the fact that once they have been applied to the skin or the lips, they are not appreciably deposited on other surfaces with which they come into contact, e.g., glass, cup, cigarettes or clothing.
A first approach for preventing the transfer of applied cosmetic products involves coating them with a layer of products well-known for their anti-adhesive properties, such as fluoro products or silicone products. However, formulations of this type have the drawback of being relatively unsuitable for cosmetic use. For example, the film of lipstick becomes oily and liable to migrate onto the skin adjacent to the lips and the eyelids.
Another possibility for obtaining transfer-resistant products involves using silicone polymers or resins in combination with volatile starting materials which, after evaporation of the latter, leave an inert film which is resistant to transfer onto other surfaces, The volatile starting materials used are, for example, cyclic silicones of very low viscosity (less than 3 centistokes) or isoparaffins.
In order for these make-up products to be in solid form, it is necessary to add hardening compounds thereto, such as waxes. Problems then arise with respect to mechanical stability and/or of compatibility between the waxes and the volatile products. Specifically, for low wax contents, the stick is found to be not sufficiently hard, which may be the cause of stability problems or problems during use. Simply increasing the proportion of hardening waxes does not solve these problems since it is generally reflected by a degradation in the cosmetic properties of the product, which becomes uncomfortable to wear.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
An object of the present invention was to find waxes which allow sufficient hardening, i.e., which have maximum gelling power, so as to limit the proportion of these waxes in the transfer-resistant solid cosmetic products and to avoid the problems of incompatibility. The transfer problem applies to skincare or skin treatment products containing both colored and non-colored active agents.
The Inventors have found, unexpectedly, that a particular class of hydrocarbon-based waxes characterized by a specific melting range and specific solubility parameters allows the problems described above to be solved.
The use of such waxes to gel volatile liquid silicone vehicles such as cyclomethicones for the purpose of preparing cream-deodorants is described in document WO 97/17942, but in no way relates to the production of a solid isoparaffin-based transfer-resistant product.
Accordingly, the object of the invention, and others, may be accomplished with a transfer-resistant cosmetic make-up or care composition for the skin, the lips or keratin fibers, comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one functionalized synthetic wax which satisfies the melting point criteria and Solubility parameters defined below.
The object of the invention may also be accomplished with the use of synthetic waxes which satisfy the melting point criteria and solubility parameters mentioned below, to harden make-up or care compositions for the skin, the lips and keratin fibers, containing volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in order to obtain solid transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions.
The object of the invention may also be accomplished with a process for preparing solid transfer-resistant makeup or care compositions combining volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and synthetic waxes having the properties below.
The object of the invention may also be accomplished with a process for limiting the transfer of a make-up or care composition for the skin, the lips or keratin fibers onto a surface with which the skin, the lips or the keratin fibers are placed in contact, this process consisting in introducing the combination of hydrocarbon-based oils and synthetic waxes as defined below into the composition.
A more complete appreciation of the invention and many of the attendant advantages thereof will be readily obtained as the same becomes better understood by reference to the following detailed description.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The solid transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions of the present invention thus comprise, in a fatty phase, at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one functionalized synthetic wax, i.e., a wax bearing at least one hydroxyl or carboxyl functional group and having a melting point of between 75° C. and 120° C. and Hansen Solubility parameters (&dgr;
d
, &dgr;
p
and &dgr;
h
) such that:
15.50≦&dgr;
d
≦18.50(J/cm
3
)
½
,
and
4.50≦&dgr;
a
≦7.50(J/cm
3
)
½
,
with
&dgr;
a
=(&dgr;
p
2
+&dgr;
h
2
)
½
,
In the present invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to an oil which can evaporate at room temperature from a support onto which it has been applied, in other words an oil which has a measurable vapor pressure at room temperature, and the term “volatile hydrocarbon-based oil” refers to an oil whose skeleton contains only hydrogens and carbons.
The preferred volatile hydrocarbon-based oils suitable for use in the present invention are, in particular, isoparaffins, i.e., branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Mixtures of such isoparaffins can also be used.
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil most preferably used for the present invention is isododecane, i.e. 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane. An example of an isododecane available on the market which may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Permethyl® 99A by Presperse Inc.
The functionalized synthetic waxes used for the gelation and hardening of the make-up compositions of the present invention comprise at least one hydroxyl or carboxyl group and are defined by their melting point and by their solubility parameters in three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen (
The three-dimensional solubility parameters,
J. Paint Technol., 39, page 105 (1967), incorporated herein by reference in its entirety).
Synthetic waxes have the advantage of being products of constant composition and of having a constant fatty alcohol or fatty acid content, unlike waxes of natural origin.
According to Hansen, the change in internal energy during vaporization is considered as being the sum of three contributions, the first due to the hydrogen bonds (h index), the second due to the dipolar interactions (p index) and the third due to dispersion forces (d index).
The Solubility parameter &dgr; (defined as the square root of the change in internal energy per unit of volume of the chemical species during its vaporization and expressed in (J/cm
3
)
½
is defined as a vector of coordinates (&dgr;
h
,&dgr;
p
and &dgr;
d
), the amplitude of the vector being given by
&dgr;
2
=&dgr;
h
2
+&dgr;
p
2
+&dgr;
d
2
The parameter &dgr;
a
used in the present invention as a criterion for selecting the appropriate waxes is defined by the following equation:
&dgr;
a
=(&dgr;
p
2
+&dgr;
h
2
)
½
The gelling power of the synthetic waxes of the present invention is associated with the compatibility/incompatibility phenomena of these waxes with the fatty phase, in particular with the isoalkanes.
Waxes with a &dgr;
a
parameter of less than 4.5 are too compatible with isoalkanes and conseq
Arnaud Pascal
Auguste Frederic
Dudash Dana
Haghighatian Mina
L'Oreal
Oblon & Spivak, McClelland, Maier & Neustadt P.C.
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