Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
1999-03-30
2002-12-10
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S061000, C424S070100, C424S078030
Reexamination Certificate
active
06491927
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition comprising an ester, preferably of high molecular mass, exhibiting improved sensory properties. This ester is a saturated and branched C
24
-C
28
fatty alcohol or acid ester. Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of this ester in a topical composition intended in particular for caring for, treating or making up the skin, both of the human face and body, lips and keratinous fibres or superficial body growths, such as the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails.
The use is known, in the formulation of cosmetic and dermatological products, of oils with a carbon number of greater than 50 for the purpose of increasing, for example, the gloss of a lipstick, the cohesion and the adhesion of a powder, or the film-forming nature and the emollience of a product for caring for or treating the skin.
From this viewpoint, the formulator has available several types of starting materials, such as:
oily polymers, such as polybutenes, which however can exhibit the disadvantage of being very sticky,
oils of plant origin which are generally oxidizable, which can result in a detrimental change in the cosmetic or dermatological properties of the product, and which also can display a very greasy and sometimes sticky nature on application,
synthetic liquid esters with high molecular masses, such as pentaerythrityl tetra[isostearate] (C
77
), triisoarachidyl citrate (C
66
), glyceryl tri[isostearate] (C
57
) or octyldodecyl stearoylstearate (C
56
), but which can exhibit the disadvantages of lack of slip on application and of a sticky feel for the esters with the highest molecular masses.
The subject-matter of the present invention is specifically the use of a novel saturated and branched C
24
to C
28
fatty alcohol or acid ester in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition which can overcome these disadvantages.
The inventors have unexpectedly found that specific esters, composed of saturated and branched C
24
to C
28
fatty alcohols or fatty acids, do not exhibit the abovementioned disadvantages in so far as, despite a high carbon number, they possessed very good sensory properties, in particular in terms of slip during application and of absence of stickiness of the film deposited on the skin, superficial body growths or mucous membranes, such as the lips.
No one until now has disclosed or suggested the use of these esters in a composition for topical application for the purpose of contributing, according to the specific application envisaged, emollience, a film-forming nature, gloss, cohesion and/or adhesion to pulverulent compounds, without, however, contributing a sticky, greasy feel to it, and while improving its spreading and slip properties.
More specifically, the subject-matter of the invention is a topical composition comprising at least one fatty phase, characterized in that this fatty phase comprises at least one saturated and branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester, the carbon-comprising chain of the fatty alcohol or acid being saturated and branched and comprising 24 to 28 carbon atoms.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of a fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester, the carbon-comprising chain of the acid or of the alcohol of which is saturated and branched and comprises 24 to 28 carbon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a dermatological composition which is non-sticky, non-greasy and/or glossy when it is applied to the skin, the lips and/or superficial body growths of a human being.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of a fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester, the carbon-comprising chain of the acid or of the alcohol of which is saturated and branched and comprises 24 to 28 carbon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a dermatological composition in order to confer on it an emollient and/or film-forming and/or cohesive and adhesive nature when the composition is in pulverulent form.
The word ester, according to the invention, means a monoester or a polyester, including, e.g., a diester or a triester. Preferably, the polyester comprises at least two branched C
24
to C
28
chains. The word branched means at least one pendant hydrocarbon-comprising chain comprising in particular from 1 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, the pendant chain includes at least four carbon atoms and more preferably, two carbon atoms less than the principal chain. According to the invention, the ester is preferably a polyester, i.e., at least a diester.
The ester of the invention therefore comprises a saturated C
24
to C
28
fatty acid or fatty alcohol residue, in particular of the Guerbet fatty acid or fatty alcohol type respectively.
The ester of the composition of the invention is preferably an ester which is liquid at room temperature (20-25° C.) and which exhibits a high molecular weight, that is to say having a carbon number of greater than 50 and in particular of greater than 70. The advantage of a liquid product, in comparison with a product which is pasty or solid at room temperature, lies in the greater number of its applications and its ease of use. Furthermore, the fact that this ester exhibits a high molecular weight makes it possible to obtain a film-forming composition which is persistent with regard to water, which is much desired for protection products, in particular sun protection products. In addition, this ester can provide a glossy film, which is desired by consumers for certain make-up products, such as nail varnishes and lipsticks. It exhibits, inter alia, a refractive index of greater than 1.45 at 20° C. and an iodine number ≦4.
This ester, despite its high molecular weight, is neither greasy nor heavy nor sticky and confers notable comfort properties on a composition comprising it. This ester is a “cosmetic” oil and not a surfactant.
The ester according to the invention is advantageously a liquid, branched C
24
-C
28
fatty acid, such as 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, ester and more especially a polyol, such as glycerol, ester which can be a mono-, di- or triglyceride. This ester is preferably a branched C
24
-C
28
triglyceride of the Guerbet type and in particular a C
24
acid, such as 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, triglyceride. Preferably, the polyol is not an ose. Further, the ester is advantageously insoluble in a mixture of water and alcohol.
This triglyceride is, for example, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate) sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by the Company Stéarinerie Dubois. This ester exhibits a saponification number of 140 to 150, a refractive index >1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.454 to 1.459 at 20° C., an iodine number ≦4, a hydroxyl number ≦30 and an acid number ≦10. Its carbon number is 75.
Use may also be made of C
24
fatty acid esters of pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate) (comprising 101 carbon atoms) sold under the reference DUB PTI 24 by the Company Stéarinerie Dubois.
When the alcohol used in combination with the branched C
24
to C
28
fatty acid is a polyol, the esterification can be partial (and can concern 1, 2, 3 or more OH groups, depending on the alcohol used) or can be total.
Mention may be made, as ester of the invention comprising a fatty alcohol residue with a saturated and branched C
24
to C
28
chain, of di(decyltetradecyl) dimerates (comprising 84 carbon atoms), such as that sold under the reference DUB DI 24D by the Company Stéarinerie Dubois, or decyltetradecyl neopentanoate (comprising 29 carbon atoms) or decyltetradecyl isostearate, sold by the Company Condea under the reference Isofol Ester 2482 (comprising 42 carbon atoms). The dimerates are diacids, generally of a C
6
to C
24
acid, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and the like.
The ester according to the invention can represent from 0.1 to 99.9% of the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 99% and better still from 5 to 90% and can generally be present in an amount sufficient to confer
Arnaud Pascal
Jacques Veronique
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
Howard S.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
Page Thurman K.
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