Textiles: knitting – Fabrics or articles – Articles
Reexamination Certificate
1999-01-26
2001-06-26
Worrell, Danny (Department: 3741)
Textiles: knitting
Fabrics or articles
Articles
C066S192000, C066S195000, C002S129000, C002S132000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06250116
ABSTRACT:
The invention relates to a textile support for reinforcing a shirt collar or similar piece, to the application of such a textile support for reinforcing a shirt collar or similar piece, and finally, to a process for obtaining such a collar.
Clothing collars such as shirt collars, blouse collars or similar pieces comprising an interlining are already known.
It can be referred for instance to the documents FR-A-2 570 577 and FR-A-2 609 873.
Conventionally, the interlinings or reinforcement pieces for shirt collars are made of either woven, for example polyester, or nonwoven material.
However, the shortcoming of current shirt collars is that dimensional stability of the shirt cannot be guaranteed perfectly over the time. Indeed, the successive washings of the shirt and hence of the collar will damage the stabilization produced by the collar reinforcement interlining, which causes rather detrimental modification of the collar measurement length. This collar measurement loss may reach 1.5, even 2.5 cm, sometimes more.
According to the state of the art, we are already familiar with reinforcement pieces for localized stiffening of textile (see FR-A-2 531 616), thermofusible interlining materials (see FR-A-2 462 456) and finally thermofusible linings in form of a weft knitted fabric (see FR-A-2 710 078).
According to the state of the art, we are also familiar with thermofusible interlinings in the form of a weft knitted fabric comprising stabilization yarns along the warp.
We also know chemical treatments for textile supports, designed for conferring or improving their resistance to creasing (see FR-A-2 737 136).
The problem at the root of the invention consists in dimensional stabilization of a shirt collar or similar piece, taking into account the regular cleaning of the said piece of clothing, inclusive of the successive washings and ironings.
To this end, the invention implements a textile support for shirt collar or similar piece, in the form of a nonwoven textile lap, reinforced by a knitted fabric comprising a number of stabilization yarns, notably capstan yarns, extending along the warp, between the stitch wales.
According to other characteristics, the stabilization yarns comprise the capstan yarns in the form of simple capstan threads and/or with floats.
According to other characteristics still, the stabilization yarns are distributed over at least one of the faces of the textile support.
The knitted fabric is preferably a warp knit fabric.
The nonwoven textile lap can be made of bonded or slightly bonded fibres.
Conventional processes, for example thermal bonding, fluid jet bonding, needle bonding, pre-needle bonding or chemical bonding can be used for bonding or pre-bonding of the nonwoven textile lap.
Generally, the bonding or pre-bonding process is selected according to the nature of the materials used.
The nonwoven textile lap is made out of natural, synthetic or artificial fibres.
As a variation, it can be made of continuous synthetic or artificial filaments, based for example on polyamide, polyester, viscose or mixtures of the said materials.
The knitted fabric consists of flat yarns and/or fibres, natural, for example cellulosed, synthetic ones, for instance made of polyester or polyamide, notably polyamide 6 or 6.6, or artificial, for example viscose, or mixtures of the said materials.
As a variation, the knitted fabric can be made of synthetic textured multifilament yarns.
The stabilization yarns are made out of flat or textured, natural, synthetic or artificial yarns and/or fibres, such as those described previously, or a mixture of the said materials.
According to an embodiment, capstan yarns are textured yarns, obtained for example by a conventional false twist technique, by using hot water, water steam or hot air or using the air texturing technique.
According to an embodiment, the textile support can also comprise, on at least one of its faces, an adhesive or thermofusible material designed for later association to the collar.
According to another aspect, the invention relates to the application of such a textile support to a shirt collar or similar piece, in order to improve its dimensional stability over the time, notably to resist successive washings and ironings.
Dimensional stability of the collar can be improved in its larger direction, i.e. the neck measurement or, alternately, in its direction perpendicular to the long direction of the collar.
According to another aspect, the invention relates to a shirt collar or similar piece comprising one or several pieces of fabric and at least one assembled textile support such as described previously.
The textile support serves itself either as an interlining or as an interlining reinforcement, in turn connected to the collar piece(s).
The textile support serving itself as an interlining comprises a coating made of adhesive or thermofusible material for connection to the collar piece(s).
In case when the textile support serves as an interlining reinforcement, it can be connected to the interlining by heat sealing, simultaneously to thermobonding of the interlining.
Such an interlining is made of cotton or similar.
According to a first embodiment, notably when dimensional stabilization in the larger direction of the collar is required, the stabilization yarns of the textile support are arranged in the long direction of the collar, i.e. the neck measurement.
In such a case, the warp of the textile support extends along the direction of the collar length.
According to a second embodiment, notably when stabilization in the perpendicular dimension to the large direction of the collar is required, the capstan yarns are arranged in the direction perpendicular to the long direction of the collar.
In such a case, the warp of the textile support extends along the direction perpendicular to the direction of the collar length.
A collar such as described previously may comprise two pieces of fabric, respectively an upper piece and a lower piece, assembled to one another and between which at least one reinforcement textile support has been inserted.
According to another aspect of the invention, a process for production of such a collar, as described previously, is provided, including a stage consisting in assembling at least one textile support such as described to the fabric piece(s) of the collar.
According to a first embodiment variation, the textile support is assembled directly to the fabric piece(s) of the collar.
According to a second possible variation, the textile support is first assembled to an interlining and the interlining, thus reinforced, is then assembled to the fabric piece(s) forming the collar.
REFERENCES:
patent: 5065599 (1991-11-01), Groshens
patent: 5194320 (1993-03-01), Groshens
patent: 0 369 046 (1990-05-01), None
patent: 2 462 456 (1981-02-01), None
patent: 2 531 616 (1984-02-01), None
patent: 2 570 577 (1986-03-01), None
patent: 2 609 873 (1988-07-01), None
patent: 2 710 078 (1995-03-01), None
patent: 2 727 136 (1996-05-01), None
patent: 2 755 832 (1998-05-01), None
Kilpatrick & Stockton LLP
Laniere de Picardie
Marcou George T.
Worrell Danny
LandOfFree
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