Structured cosmetic material comprising &kgr;-carragheen...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S488000, C424S064000, C424S063000, C424SDIG005, C424S195170, C424S059000, C514S844000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06274153

ABSTRACT:

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention concerns a structured cosmetic material and a process for the production thereof and use thereof.
The field of cosmetics, in particular decorative cosmetics, frequently involves the use of structured materials which are spread over or rubbed into the skin or mucous membrane and which are intended to remain there for a prolonged period of time. Materials of that kind are used for example in the form of cream, gel, compressed powder or in stick form. The use of sticks is popular for decorative cosmetics, in particular for eyes and lips, for example in the form of lipsticks, eyebrow pencils, kohl eye pencils or eye-shadow pencils. For that purpose of use the material must be sufficiently firm to be able to form stick portions, but on the other hand it should be such that it can be well and properly applied and is to stay on for a long time without being sticky. Furthermore as far as possible it should also be water-resistant and should not irritate the skin. If the stick used is a rotational stick having a rotary mechanism into which the stick portion is fitted and projects unsupportedly therefrom, the material must also be of adequate strength.
There are already numerous compositions for the production of sticks. Thus for example stick materials are described and produced, which contain volatile solvents which evaporate at body temperature. The volatile solvent provides that the material can be easily applied. After evaporation of the solvent after application to the skin, the material has good adhesion to the skin. It will be noted however that in recent times the use of volatile solvents is undesirable for environmental reasons. It would therefore be desirable to provide a material which manages with water as a solvent.
Aqueous stick materials have already been described, which occur in the form of aqueous gels. For example WO97/17055 describes gel sticks which can contain a high proportion of water, but which must also contain at least 20% by weight of a water-soluble or water-dispersible gel-forming agent. Upon application, the high proportion of gel-forming agent gives a sticky, unpleasant feel.
DE 196 432 37 describes sticks which can have a water content of between 30 and 85% by weight. Here the stick material is produced in the form of a firm water/oil (w/o) emulsion. In those materials the aqueous phase is used to incorporate into a stick substances which are soluble in water but not in the fat phase. The products which are described here are however still not satisfactory as they are not stable at elevated temperatures and separate into the phases.
Therefore it is the object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic material which occurs in structured form, which can be processed to form sticks, which has good mechanical properties, which can absorb a large amount of water, which is extremely stable in respect of temperature, which is stable over a wide pH-range and is stable in terms of storage without change at up to about 60° C. and which can be applied at up to 45° C. The invention further seeks to provide that the cosmetic material is wipe-resistant but can easily be uniformly applied and is to give a good feel on the skin. In addition it is to afford materials enjoying good strong colours for decorative cosmetics.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The foregoing object is attained by a structured cosmetic material which includes water, a fat component, an o/w emulsifier, a w/o emulsifier, a polysaccharide forming a three-dimensional network, and optionally conventional components.
It was found that, in accordance with the invention, it is possible to obtain an extremely temperature-stable, structured material if a dispersion comprising a water component and a fat component is combined with a combination of a w/o emulsifier and an o/w emulsifier and a polysaccharide which forms a three-dimensional network is added to that composition. The material according to the invention involves a dispersion type which has a continuous aqueous phase but which essentially does not exhibit any emulsion features. The addition of the specific polysaccharide produces a firm structure so that the material can be shaped, for example can be processed to make it into stick portions which can be used both in stick tubes and also in relation to the rotary mechanism of rotational sticks.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The material according to the invention includes water and a fat component as its main components. Water can be contained in the material in a proportion of between 30 and 85% by weight, preferably between 40 and 75% by weight and particularly preferably between 50 and 65% by weight, in each case with respect to the weight of the overall composition. A part of the water evaporates upon application to the skin and gives a pleasantly cooling feel on the skin.
The fat component of the cosmetic material according to the invention comprises oil and/or wax components. All waxes and oils which are conventionally used in the cosmetics field are suitable here. The choice in that respect depends on the purpose for which the cosmetic material is to be used. Natural and synthetic oils, for example vegetable oils and ester oils or silicone oils are suitable as oil components. Examples that may be mentioned for oil components are jojoba oils, castor oil, olive oil and vegetable triglyceride oils. Examples of ester oils are jojobates, myristylmyristate, isopropylmyristate and isopropylpalmitate. Both volatile and also non-volatile silicone oils can be used as the silicone oils. For sticks of harder texture such as for example eyebrow sticks or pencils and kohl eye pencils, paraffin, ceresin, ozocerite and microcrystalline waxes are preferably used. The waxes which are conventional in cosmetics are considered as the wax component. An example is polyethylene wax.
An essential aspect of the invention is the combination of o/w emulsifier and w/o emulsifier. The emulsifiers adopted in themselves are not critical and it is possible to use the emulsifiers which are conventionally employed in cosmetic materials. It is however essential that, out of each of the two classes, the material contains at least one representative thereof. The ratio between the two emulsifiers is preferably between 1:5 and 5:1, particularly preferably between 1:2 and 2:1. The o/w emulsifiers are preferably long-chain esters of polyvalent alcohols, for example long-chain esters of glycerine and sucrose, wherein the alcohol components preferably have between 14 and 26 carbon atoms, in particular between 18 and 24 carbon atoms.
The w/o emulsifiers are preferably ethylene oxide derivatives such as PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate or emulsifiers from the group of ceteareths, as well as higher alcohols, for example those with between 20 and 40 C-atoms. Examples are polyoxyethylene-20; polyoxyethylene-30; ceteareth-20; ceteareth-30; polyoxyethylene-24-glycerine monostearate and polyoxyethylene-10-oleyl cetyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.
A further constituent, which is essential to the invention, of the cosmetic material according to the invention is a polysaccharide which can form a three-dimensional network. The man skilled in the art can establish which polysaccharides are suitable here, by carrying out a small number of experiments, by checking what kind of gel structure is formed by a polysaccharide being considered. Only those which produce three dimensional structures are suitable for the composition according to the invention.
An example in this respect, which is particularly preferably used, is &kgr;-carragheen. Carragheen, also referred to as carrageenan, is obtained from red algae, in particular those of the families Gigartinaceae or Solieriaceae and are complex mixtures of various polysaccharides. Fractional precipitation makes it possible to obtain various components of the carragheen, which can be organised into classes; one of these is &kgr;-carragheen.
It was surprisingly found that polysaccharides which can form a three-dimensional structure such as &kgr;-carragheen can impart a fir

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