Stable cosmetic emulsion with polyamide gelling agent

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live skin colorant containing – Lip

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S063000, C424S401000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06497861

ABSTRACT:

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to a cosmetic and personal care gel product that is gelled using a polyamide as a gelling agent in the oil phase. More specifically, the invention relates to a stable emulsion based compositions comprising a polyamide gelling agent in the oil phase.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Many gelled cosmetic emulsions rely on gellants, waxes, fillers, heavy oils, and plasticizers for developing the structure to make a gel or stick composition. The structure built by these agents and materials give the product a balance of rigidity and firmness depending on the desired product. For example, the structure of lipstick is traditionally formed by a blend of wax and oil. However, these adjuvants, particularly waxes, have a disadvantage in that they contribute to opacity which diminishes the color of the pigment. The product therefore, has a dull, lackluster and pale appearance. To overcome this problem, enhanced amounts of pigment are added to the composition. Another drawback to the addition of wax is that it adheres poorly to the skin and compromises the longevity of wear of the product. For example, many commonly used cosmetic products, such as foundation, concealer, eyeliner, and lipstick, which contain these materials are subject to fading, smudging, and flaking. Such products also have a matte appearance that is not always desirable. In addition, other adjuvants such as heavy oils can feel uncomfortable on the skin and have a distinct oily feel that may also be unpleasant. Therefore, to address these issues, alternative gelling agents have been sought and specific polyamides have been used to gel cosmetic products.
The use of polyamides in cosmetic products has been known. For example, polyamide resins have been used in an anhydrous lipstick as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,148,125. The method of making polyamides is disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 2,450,940. The polyamide resin has also been used in a deodorant or antiperspirant gel or stick as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,275,054 and 5,500,209 because of its odor absorbing properties. None of these references, however, discloses an emulsion gelled with the non-siloxane based polyamide in combination with an ethylene oxide containing emulsion stabilizer. The stick, soft gel, or clear gel compositions disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,051,216, 5,603,925, and 5,998,570 and European Patent Application Nos. EP 1 068 855 and EP 1 068 856 are unstable emulsions, single phase compositions, or use a siloxane based polyamide. The siloxane polyamides have been developed because of their alleged ability to, in addition to gel the composition, provide a less tacky composition. However, the siloxane based polyamides are not compatible with a wide variety of oils, for example, hydrocarbon oils, and because they are less tacky, their adhesion properties are significantly impaired, making them less desirable in products that require minimally an initial phase of adhesion during the application of the product to the skin or hair. Therefore. it is desirable to use other polyamides in cosmetic emulsion systems because products such as mascara, for example, need a certain degree of tackiness when being applied but afterwards, upon drying the tackiness of the mascara needs to transition to a comfortable feel on the lashes. Until now, it has not been known to fine-tune the tacky nature of a cosmetic dual phase product containing the polyamide resin as a gelling agent. The compositions heretofore have either been too tacky or not tacky enough for products that need to exhibit varying degrees of tackiness over time and during their use. Thus, the emulsions of the present invention gelled with a non-siloxane polyamide has heretofore not been known. A need for a stable cosmetic emulsion gelled by a polyamide resin system that adheres to the skin and functions in a variety of cosmetic emulsion systems still remains. The emulsion system of the present invention is also desirable because it allows water-soluble ingredients to be incorporated into the product containing the emulsion.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to gelled cosmetic compositions, and specifically, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, which comprises at least one alkylene oxide containing emulsion stabilizer and at least one non-siloxane based polyamide resin. The prepared emulsions, while they are not themselves clear, are substantially transparent after application to the skin. Use of the polyamide resin as a gelling agent per se is not new, however, its incorporation into the color compositions of the present invention containing the C
1-5
alkylene oxide, for example, ethylene oxide or propylene oxide, as an emulsion stabilizer is surprising. The cosmetic emulsions of the present invention also comprise a color component present in an amount greater than about 2.0 percent by weight of the composition. The ability to gel a color cosmetic emulsion with the polyamide resin as the primary gelling agent is particularly challenging because the polyamide is very polar and emulsions containing large quantities of polyamide tend to be tacky and are difficult to stabilize in the presence of colorants.
The present invention also includes methods of making the emulsion systems of the present invention which can include multiple emulsion systems. The emulsion products are especially transparent and transfer resistant when they are applied to the skin and allowed to dry. The compositions containing these emulsions have an enhanced brightness and clarity with respect to their color on the skin after application thereon due to the transparent film that adheres to the skin without being tacky. The emulsion systems of the present invention dry faster than other polyamide containing systems, and are long wearing even after the water evaporates. In addition, gels and sticks made with the emulsion system of the present invention are less brittle, experience a substantial lack of syneresis, and have a creamier texture because the three-dimensional structure formed by the polyamide resin is interrupted partially by the water phase.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The gelling system of the present invention is at least one non-siloxane based polyamide resin and at least one C
1-5
alkylene oxide containing emulsion stabilizer. The polyamide resin as used herein is defined to be a polymer having recurring units of amide groups as an integral part of the main chain of the polymer and a terminal end group of acid, amine, or ester. The polyamide gelling agent can be used to produce a soft gel or a stick composition in an emulsified system. Therefore, it is preferable that the polyamide resin not be extensively cross-linked by hydrogen bonds. The polyamides are characterized as thermoplastics as opposed to thermosets. Based on complex fatty acids, esters, and amines, the polyamides used in the present invention are water insoluble. The polyamide is available in a solid form of 100 percent polyamide or as a percentage of polyamide in mineral oil, usually about 80 percent. Examples of commercially available polyamides which are useful in the present invention are Versamid 1655, by Cognis (formerly Henkel Corporation), Ambler, Pa. which is prepared from dimers of C
18
unsaturated fatty acids which are partially hydrogenated, azelaic acid (nonanedioic acid), ethylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine and stearic acid, Unirez and Uniclear, a series of polyamides from Arizona Chemicals Corporation, Jacksonville, Fla. or Elvamide from DuPont, Del. a terpolymer of nylon 6, nylon 66, and nylon 610. Additional polyamides are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,820,765, 5,719,255, 5,807,968, 6,111,055, and 6,054,517, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. These references fail to recognize the ability to make a stable emulsion product, and thus, fail to recognize the benefits of a water containing cosmetic emulsion incorporating a polyamide gelling agent and an C
1-5
alkylene oxide containing surfactant. For example, U.S. Pat. No. 5,

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