Solid cosmetic composition and uses thereof

Details Solid cosmetic composition and uses thereof Solid cosmetic composition and uses thereof

1999-07-21

2001-08-28

Dees, Jose′ G. (Department: 1616)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Preparations characterized by special physical form

Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice

C424S063000, C424S064000, C424S065000, C424S070700, C424S070130, C424S400000, C424S484000, C424S485000, C424S486000, C424S487000, C424S488000, C424SDIG005, C426S573000, C514S944000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06280750

ABSTRACT:

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a solid composition for topical application, as well as to its use in cosmetics and/or dermatology, in particular for conditioning and/or treating the skin, the scalp, the hair and/or mucous membranes, for making up the skin and/or keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and the hair, and for styling and/or shaping keratin fibers, and in particular the hair.
2. Description of the Background
Products in solid form are known in the cosmetics industry. Products of this type include, for example, in the field of make-up, tubes or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eyeshadow; in the field of skin- or lip-care, lip-repair pencils and depigmenting, make-up-removing or moisturizing tubes or “sticks”; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks and foaming sticks or bars for shaving or washing the skin. Solid products also include patches, which act, in particular, transdermally, for example, either to make an active agent penetrate the skin or to cleanse the skin.
Formulated sticks based on waxes have certain drawbacks: they have a greasy nature which users do not appreciate and they lack freshness when applied. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents therein.
Moreover, non-greasy sticks such as deodorant sticks generally contain a relatively large amount of fatty acid salts, which may exhibit an irritant effect in applications where care of the skin of the face is desired. Moreover, these sticks leave a sticky film after application to the skin.
Aqueous rigid gels are disclosed in the publications WO-A-97/17055 and WO-A-97/17053. However, these gels require a fairly high concentration of gelling agent or involve a specific preparation technique such as extrusion. In addition, the sticks described in publication WO-A-97/17055 lack transparency and, because of the high concentration of gelling agent, lack freshness and softness when they are applied to the skin. The sticks described in publication WO-A-97/17053 must be hydrated at the time of use.
Publication EP 0 803 245 describes aqueous solid compositions containing heat-reversible polysaccharides, a wetting agent and a powdery phase (fillers). However, the presence of a powdery phase may give rise to the drawbacks of a visible trace when the composition is applied to the skin and a reduction in the sensation of comfort of the skin. Further, when the powdery phase is removed from the composition described in the publication, a composition is obtained which is neither sufficiently solid nor sufficiently stable, and which does not give satisfactory transfer or deposition of the product on the skin. Thus, there is still a need for a solid composition for topical application to the skin which does not have the drawbacks of the prior art.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Accordingly, one object of the present invention is to provide a composition which feels fresh when applied to the skin and gives a good deposit of the product on the skin while at the same time being sufficiently solid.
Briefly, this object and other objects of the present invention as hereinafter will become more readily apparent can be attained by a solid composition, comprising, in an aqueous phase, a gelling system comprising (i) gellan gum, (ii) at least one other hydrocolloid selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl-methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, carob gum, guar gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, pectins, gelatin, caseinates and hydroxypropylguar, and (iii) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
The discovery of the present invention is a specific gelling system based on hydrocolloids and an associative polymer for preparing homogeneous, rigid, aqueous compositions which are stable even at low contents of gelling agent, and which do not necessarily require the use of a specific technique of preparation. In addition, the gelling system permits the direct application of product onto the skin without the necessity of prewetting the skin.
An associative polymer is an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain, and thus a hydrophobic portion, and at least one hydrophilic unit, and thus a hydrophilic portion.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “solid composition” refers to any composition which has a compression strength of greater than or equal to 20 grams at room temperature (20-25° C.), after penetration with an axisymmetric probe of diameter 0.8 cm into the matrix of the composition to a depth of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and removal of the probe from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 0.5 mm/s. Compression strength is measured with an analyzer such as the “LFRA Texture Analyzer” sold by the company Stevens/Mechtric.
The solid composition of the invention can be applied directly to a substrate, i.e. it does not need to be made wet to be applied to the support, and in particular to the skin. The term “substrate” for the composition of the invention means any surface on which a topical application can be made, in particular the skin, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and the hair, the scalp and mucous membranes such as the lips.
The gelling system of the invention gives, even in small amounts, a solid composition whose strength and rigidity are satisfactory while at the same time leaving a good deposit on the skin.
In addition, unlike solid compositions comprising a large proportion of powdered material, the composition of the invention has the advantage of not leaving a visible powdery deposit when it is applied to a substrate. Moreover, it has the property of being transparent or translucent in the absence of oil.
Furthermore, the solid composition of the invention has good transfer properties, i.e. when applied to a substrate, in that it releases an effective amount of product onto the substrate, while at the same time being particularly solid.
In the composition of the invention, the gellan gum is present in an amount of at least 1.5% based on the total weight of the composition, and, for example, in an amount ranging from 1.5-15%, preferably from 2-8% and better still from 2-4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrocolloid (ii) is preferably selected from xanthan gum, carob gum, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylguar, and mixtures thereof.
The hydrocolloid(s) (ii) is (are) present in the composition of the invention in an amount which can vary within a wide range. Thus, this amount can range, for example, from 0.1-10%, preferably from 1-5% and better still from 2-4%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
Depending on the proportions, and in particular when the total amount of hydrocolloids (gellan plus hydrocolloid (ii)) exceeds 4%, the mixture can advantageously be prepared in a twin-screw extruder by the technique described in document EP-A-667,148.
Any associative polymer can be used in the composition of the invention as amphiphilic polymer (iii). In this amphiphilic polymer, the hydrophobic portion can be present in a reduced amount with respect to the rest of the polymer chain, can be located laterally relative to the chain and can be distributed randomly (random copolymers) or distributed in the form of sequences or grafts (block copolymers or sequenced copolymers). Moreover, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers or alternatively water-swellable polymers can be used.
The amphiphilic polymers can be of any chemical nature; it is thus possible to choose polymers of natural origin, which are optionally modified; radical polymers, in particular vinyl or acrylic polymers; polycondensates; and mixtures thereof. They can be ionic or nonionic, and are preferably anionic or nonionic.
The amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and

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