Shibori clothes manufacturing method, etc. and shibori...

Beds – Bedclothing

Reexamination Certificate

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C005S494000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06523196

ABSTRACT:

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The present invention concerns a shibori clothes manufacturing method, with which crimps are formed in a cloth by application of the binding technique of “shibori dyeing” (tie-dyeing), which is a traditional Japanese dyeing method, shibori clothes made by this manufacturing method, and a dyeing method favorable for the manufacturing method.
2. Description of the Related Art
There is a traditional Japanese dyeing technique called the “shibori dyeing” method, which is used to dye kimonos. With this technique, dyeing is performed after forming relief-like shapes called “shibo” (crimps) by pinching and binding the cloth with thread or other suitable method to prevent the entry of dye solution at parts of the cloth. Representative examples include kanoko (dappled) shibori, Arimatsu shibori, etc.
The techniques of binding the cloth used in shibori dyeing have been mostly handed down as special pattern expression techniques that made use of the differences in the degrees of dyeing of bound cloth portions and unbound cloth portions.
FIG. 10
schematically shows the “shibori (binding) process” of such “shibori dyeing” techniques and this process is characterized in binding the cloth prior to the dyeing process.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
If shibori (bound) shapes can be formed intentionally using the above-described binding technique in the “shibori dyeing” techniques, it may become possible to provide clothes which have various forms of crimps (gathers) that exhibit new types of handling and draping qualities and with which the stretchability of the crimped portions provide woven clothes with body fitting qualities similar to those of knitted clothes.
However, in manufacturing clothes using such “shibori” techniques, particularly in cases where a polyester textile is employed for the cloth and print dyeing is performed, migration and sublimation of the dye tended to occur readily due to the heat of the steam in the shibori “setting process.” There was thus the danger of loss of commercial value.
The objects of the present invention are therefore to (1) provide methods of manufacturing shibori clothes of the desired form and hue in a secure and stable manner by application of the above-described “shibori” techniques of “shibori dyeing” and taking measures to intentionally leave the relief-like shapes called “shibo” (crimps) in the clothes, which are the final products, (2) to apply a dyeing method that can effectively prevent migration and sublimation to shibori techniques, and (3) to provide new types of shibori clothes with unique forms, stretchability, handling and draping qualities, comfort when worn, etc.
In order to achieve the above objects, the following means are employed in the present invention.
The shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention includes at least:
(1) a “shibori (binding) process,” in which a dyed and sewn cloth is bound partially at several locations by thread,
(2) a “setting process, ” having at least a steam setting process in which the bound cloth obtained in the “shibori (binding) process” is exposed to steam to maintain the shibori (bound) shapes, and
(3) a “thread removing process,” in which the abovementioned thread is removed.
With this manufacturing method, crimps (gathers) can be formed and maintained in the clothes, which are the final products, by the shibori shapes formed in the “shibori (binding) process.”
Here, “shibori” refers to the forming of crimped, relief-like shapes on cloth by a suitable method. For the abovementioned “shibori (binding) process,” shibori methods, such as pinching the cloth partially so as to form a peak and then binding the base part of the peak with thread, etc. can be applied. With this shibori method, numerous, peak-shaped, relief-like crimps with relatively large differences in level can be formed on the cloth.
With another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, the abovementioned “shibori (binding) process” is performed by pleating and then crimping (gathering) the cloth using a sewing needle.
With this manufacturing method, since finer crimps can be formed at a higher density than is possible with methods in which the cloth is bound at parts with thread, shibori clothes can be manufactured that are distinctive in form and are provided with unique handling and draping qualities and comfort when worn.
With yet another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention the abovementioned “shibori (binding) processes” may be performed by forming the bound portions successively in progression not in an oblique direction of the abovementioned cloth but in the left-right direction of the cloth.
With this manufacturing method, since the bound portions are successively formed in progression in the left-right direction of the cloth and distortion and warping are thus prevented from occurring in the “setting process,” the clothes become flat, and thus, readily arranged and aligned. The clothes are thus made convenient for transport, storage, and maintenance. Furthermore, since the clothes can stretch in all directions and will be especially stretchable in the left-right direction, shibori clothes with a high degree of comfort when worn can be provided.
With still another dyeing method in accordance with the invention, a cloth comprised of cation-dyeable polyester, which has been print-dyed or immersion-dyed with a dispersion-type cationic dye, is used to perform dyeing.
By this method, the migration and sublimation of the dye can be effectively prevented even in clothes manufacturing processes in which various heat treatment processes, including a hot steam setting process, are performed after print dyeing or immersion dyeing.
This method is favorable since, for example, even if the dyed cloths are layered in two, three, or more layers and then exposed to steam in the shibori process, the colors will not be transferred among the cloths and reversible shibori clothes can thus be manufactured readily.
“Cation-dyeable polyester” refers to polyester that can be dyed readily with a cationic dye and is generally distinguished from polyester that can be dyed readily with regular dye. “Print dyeing process” refers to the method of dyeing patterns on the cloth using a screen, etc. and “immersion dyeing process” refers to the method of dyeing the cloth by immersion of the cloth itself in a dyeing solution at a prescribed temperature.
With yet a further shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, the cloth made of cation-dyeable polyester as previously described is sewn and the abovementioned “shibori (binding) process” is performed on this sewn cloth.
With this manufacturing method, migration and sublimation of the dye from a dark-colored portion to a light-colored portion of the cloth on which a pattern has been formed by print dyeing can be effectively prevented. Shibori clothes, with a vivid pattern and with which the occurrence of color migration, which can take the appearance of soiling of the light-colored portions, is prevented, can thus be manufactured.
With still a further shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, when the cloth of the abovementioned methods is formed from natural textile, the “setting process” is comprised only of the “steam setting process.” With another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, when the abovementioned cloth is formed from wool, the “setting process” for maintaining the shibori (bound) shapes is performed by successively performing the respective processes of solution immersion, drying, and steam setting. With still another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, when the abovementioned cloth is made from cotton or hemp, the “setting process” for maintaining the shibori (bound) shapes is performed by successively performing the respective processes of solution immersion, water rinsing, neutralization, and drying.
With these shibori manufacturing meth

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