Self-tanning cosmetic compositions

Details Self-tanning cosmetic compositions Self-tanning cosmetic compositions

1998-04-02

2002-06-04

Dudash, Diana (Department: 1619)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live skin colorant containing

C424SDIG001

Reexamination Certificate

active

06399048

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions for topical use intended more particularly for artificially tanning and/or browning the skin (compositions referred to hereinbelow more simply as self-tanning compositions), as well as to their use in the abovementioned cosmetic application. Even more precisely, the invention relates to self-tanning compositions comprising at least one self-tanning agent, preferably dihydroxyacetone, and at least one polymer selected from dendrimers, preferably a dendrimer containing amine functions.
It is known that dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is a particularly advantageous product which is commonly used in cosmetics as an agent for artificially tanning the skin; when applied to the skin, especially the face, it allows a tanning or browning effect to be obtained which is similar in appearance to that which can result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or to a UV lamp. Such a use also has the advantage of entirely avoiding the risks of skin reaction generally associated with the abovementioned prolonged exposures (erythema, burns, loss of elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, premature ageing of the skin, and the like).
Most of the cosmetic products intended for artificially tanning the skin use dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as active agent, but its use is not entirely satisfactory.
The reason for this is that the reaction of DHA with the amino acids in the skin is not immediate and the skin coloration does not appear until a few hours (about 3 hours) after the application. In addition, the skin coloration imparted by DHA is not particularly natural since it is an orange-yellow shade.
Various solutions have been recommended in order to obtain with DHA a faster coloration and a shade which is closer to that of a natural tan.
In particular, combinations of DHA with amine compounds are described in several documents.
Patent applications WO 95/26179 and WO 94/22419 describe the combination of DHA with amino acids.
Patent application WO 94/04130 describes the combination of DHA with primary amines.
Patents WO 94/13258 and WO 95/15742 describe the combination of DHA with a polyamine compound, it being possible for the polyamine to be, for example, polyethyleneimine (hyperbranched polymer) or an aminosilicone.
These combinations make it possible to obtain a faster rise in the coloration than with DHA alone, but improvement is still sought in terms of shade of coloration (orange-yellow), fastness of the coloration, in particular its fastness to washing, and the intensity of the coloration.
The aim of the present invention is, in particular, to solve the above problems by proposing novel self-tanning combinations, in particular DHA-based combinations which are of improved efficacy and/or self-tanning activity on the skin: speed of coloration, quality of the coloration, intensity and fastness.
The inventors have observed, surprisingly, that the combination of a self-tanning active agent, in particular dihydroxyacetone or DHA, with a dendrimer can make it possible to obtain an artificial coloration of the skin which is faster than with DHA alone and faster than the other combinations of DHA with amine compounds according to the prior art. It also can allow a shade closer to that of a natural tan to be obtained. In addition, such a combination gives the tan a very satisfactory intensity and very good fastness over time, in particular good resistance to washing.
A subject of the invention is the combination of at least one self-tanning active agent and at least one polymer selected from dendrimers. More particularly, the self-tanning active agent is dihydroxyacetone.
Another subject of the invention is cosmetic compositions intended for topical application, comprising such a combination.
The invention also relates to devices or kits containing at least two compartments, each of the compartments containing one of the components of the combination defined above.
Other subjects of the invention will become apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
The self-tanning active agent can preferably be selected from: mono- or polycarbonyl derivatives, such as DHA, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde and pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives. The self-tanning active agent more preferably used in the present invention is dihydroxyacetone.
These self-tanning active agents can optionally be combined with direct dyes or with indole derivatives.
Hyperbranched polymers, a category of polymer to which polyethyleneimine belongs, are molecular constructions having a branched structure, generally around a core. Their structure generally lacks symmetry: the base units or monomers used in the construction of the hyperbranched polymer can be of different natures and they are distributed irregularly. The branches of the polymer can be of different natures and lengths. The number of base units, or monomers, can be different depending on the different branching.
Hyperbranched polymers are generally derived from the polycondensation of one or more monomers ABx, A and B being reactants capable of reacting together, x being an integer greater than or equal to 2, but other preparation processes can be envisaged. Hyperbranched polymers are characterized by their degree of polymerization DP=1−b, b being the percentage of non-terminal functionalities in B which have not reacted with a group A. Since the condensation is non-systematic, in contrast with the synthesis of dendrimers, the degree of polymerization is less than 100%. Usually, by the known synthetic methods, the DP ranges from 15 to 90%.
Dendrimers are highly branched polymers and oligomers that are also known per se, having a well-defined chemical structure, and they are said to be “perfect” hyperbranched polymers. In general, dendrimers comprise a core, a defined number of generations of branches, or spindles, and terminal groups. The generations of spindles comprise structural units, which are identical for the same generation of spindles and which can be identical or different for different generations of spindles. The generations of spindles extend radially in a geometrical progression from the core. The terminal groups of a dendrimer of the Nth generation are the terminal functional groups of the spindles of the Nth generation or terminal generation. Such polymers are described in particular in D. A. Tomalia, A. M. Naylor and W. A. Goddard III, Angewandte Chemie, Int. Ed. Engl. 29, 138-175(1990); C. J. Hawker and J. M. J. Frechet, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 112, 7638(1990); B. I. Voit, Acta Polymer., 46, 87-99 (1995); N. Ardoin and D. Astruc, Bull. Soc. Chim. Fr. 132, 875-909 (1995); G. R. Newkome, C. N. Moorefield, F. Vögtle, Dendritic Molecules, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft, 1996, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
Dendrimers can also be defined more particularly by the formula (DI) below:
C[A
1
B
1
(A
2
B
2
( . . . (A
n−1
B
n−1
(A
n
B
n
(T)r
n
)r
n−1
)r
n−2
. . . )r
2
)r
1
]s  (DI)
in which:
C represents the core, connected via a number s of functionalities to s spindles A
1
B
1
via groups A
1
;
s is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to the number of functionalities in C;
for each spindle (A
i
B
i
) (i=1, 2 . . . n), the group B
i
is connected to r
i
groups A
i+1
of a spindle (A
i+1
B
i+1
);
each group A
i
(i≧2) is connected to only one group B
i−1
of the spindle A
i−1
B
i−1
);
r
i
(i=1, 2 . . . n−1) represents the number of functionalities in the group B
1
belonging to the spindle (A
1
B
1
), r
i
being an integer greater than or equal to 2;
the index i (i=1, 2 . . . n) is an integer which denotes the generation of each spindle;
the spindle of the nth generation A
n
B
n
is chemically linked to a number r
n
of terminal groups T, r
n
being an integer greater than or equal to zero.
The definition of dendrimers given above includes molecules with symmetrical branching; it also

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