Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Permanent waving or straightening
Reexamination Certificate
2000-08-28
2001-10-16
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Permanent waving or straightening
C424S401000, C424S070200, C424S070500, C132S202000, C132S203000, C132S204000, C132S205000, C132S206000, C132S210000, C132S211000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06303110
ABSTRACT:
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the first stage of a process of permanent reshaping of keratin fibres and to a treatment process for keratin substances, in particular the hair, in order to obtain permanent reshaping of the hair, in particular in the shape of permanent-waved hair.
It is known that the most common technique for obtaining permanent reshaping of the hair consists, in first stage, in opening the —S—S— disulphide bonds of keratin (cystine) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (the reduction step) and then, after the head of hair thus treated has been rinsed, in reconstituting, in a second stage, the said disulphide bonds by applying to the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand (curlers and the like) an oxidizing composition (the oxidation step also known as the fixing step) in order, finally, to give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible either to make the hair wavy or to straighten it or remove staying power of curls therefrom. The new shape given to the hair by a chemical treatment as above is eminently long-lasting and especially withstands the action of washing with water or shampoos, this being in contrast with simple standard techniques of temporary reshaping, such as hairsetting.
The reducing compositions which may be used to carry out the first step of a permanent-waving operation generally contain sulphites, bisulphites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols as reducing agents.
As regards the oxidizing compositions required to carry out the fixing step, in practice, compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or alkaline bromates are usually used.
The problem of the technique of the permanent-waving operations known to date is that their application to the hair causes long-term damage to the hair quality. The essential causes of this damage to the hair quality are a decrease in its cosmetic properties, such as its sheen, and a degradation in its mechanical properties, more particularly degradation in its mechanical strength due to swelling of the keratin fibres during the rinsing between the reduction step and the oxidation step, which may also be reflected in an increase in its porosity.
The hair is weakened and may become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying.
To overcome this problem of damage to the hair quality, it has been proposed to combine cationic polymers either with the reducing agents or with the oxidizing agents.
However, these solutions prove to be unsatisfactory since they do not entirely solve the problem of the reduced mechanical properties of the hair. In particular, in the case of a permanent reshaping treatment of the hair, it has an unsatisfactory feel and the staying power of the curls is insufficient.
The aim of the present invention is, in particular, to solve the above problems.
More precisely, the aim of the invention is to propose a novel stable reducing composition which, when used in particular during the first stage of a permanent reshaping operation of keratin fibres, makes it possible to limit, or even prevent, the degradation of the mechanical properties of the hair, and more particularly the brittleness of the hair, and thus to obtain beautiful curls which withstand blow-drying and have good staying power.
The aim of the invention is also to propose a reducing composition as above which makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties, such as the softness and the ease of disentangling, of keratin fibres when they undergo, in particular, a permanent reshaping treatment.
Lastly, the aim of the present invention is to propose a novel process for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibres, in particular the hair, using a reducing composition according to the invention.
It has been proposed in applications EP-A- 647 617 and FR-A-2,673,179 in the name of the Applicant to use specific ceramides in combination with lipids as an envelope of vesicles encapsulating water-soluble active substances, it being possible for these active substances to be, inter alia, reducing agents, in order to protect the said active substances from the various deleterious agents and from the reactive compounds which may be present in the composition.
Now, the Applicant has just discovered, entirely surprisingly, that the use of compounds of ceramide type in a reducing composition for a permanent reshaping process which is free of vesicles encapsulating a reducing agent, makes it possible to obtain hair fibres in excellent condition after the permanent-waving process.
The subject of the present invention is thus a novel composition for the first stage of a process of permanent reshaping of keratin fibres, in particular the hair, characterized in that it comprises, in a suitable cosmetic support, i) at least one compound of ceramide type and ii) at least one reducing agent corresponding to formula (I) below:
HS—CH
2
—R (I)
where R denotes a carboxyl radical, a C
1
-C
4
aminoalkyl radical, a carboxy(C
1
-C
4
) alkyl radical optionally substituted with an amino group, a C
1
-C
4
ureidoalkyl radical, a (C
1
-C
4
)acylamino(C
1
-C
4
)alkyl radical, an amino(C
1
-C
4
)acylamino(C
1
-C
4
)radical, a (C
1
-C
4
) alkoxycarbonyl radical, a monohydroxy(C
1
-C
4
) alkoxycarbonyl radical, a dihydroxy(C
2
-C
4
)alkoxycarbonyl radical, a (C
1
-C
4
)alkoxycarbonyl(C
1
-C
4
)alkyl radical optionally substituted with an amino group, a monohydroxy(C
1
-C
4
)alkoxycarbonyl(C
1
-C
4
)alkyl radical optionally substituted with an amino group, or a dihydroxy(C
2
-C
4
)alkoxycarbonyl(C
1
-C
4
)alkyl radical optionally substituted with an amino group, the said compound of ceramide type being present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the said composition being free of vesicles containing a reducing agent.
The subject of the present invention is also a novel treatment process for keratin substances, in particular the hair, in order to permanently reshape the hair, in particular in the shape of permanent-waved hair, this process comprising the following steps: (i) a composition as defined above is applied to the keratin substance to be treated, the keratin substance being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after the said application, (ii) the keratin substance is optionally rinsed, (iii) an oxidizing composition is applied to the keratin substance or the keratin substance is optionally left to stand under heat, (iv) the keratin substance is optionally rinsed again.
The process according to the invention is particularly suitable for obtaining a permanent-waved head of hair without the risk of degrading the keratin fibres. In particular, the process according to the invention limits the brittleness of the hair. Beautiful, uniform curls are obtained, as well as better hold of the hairstyle. Wet hair treated according to the process of the invention feels pleasant and it is easier to style. The shape acquired by hair which has undergone the permanent reshaping treatment according to the invention also has good remanence to shampooing over time.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more apparent on reading the detailed description which follows, as well as the various concrete, but in no way limiting, examples intended to illustrate it.
Although the account which follows is essentially centered around the specific case of treating the hair, it will be noted here that the process according to the invention is applicable to any keratin substance in general, in particular eyelashes, moustaches, body hair, wool and the like.
In the preceding text and in the text which follows, the term vesicles is understood to refer to lipid spherules consisting of organized molecular layers enclosing an encapsulated aqueous phase, these layers consisting of at least one compound of ceramide type combined with at least one other lipid compound.
According to the present invention, the expression compound of ceramide type is understood t
Braida-Valerio Damarys
Maubru Mireille
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal
Page Thurman K.
Seidleck Brian K.
LandOfFree
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