Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification – Bleaching
Reexamination Certificate
2000-01-28
2003-11-04
Douyon, Lorna M. (Department: 1751)
Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification
Bleaching
C008S109000, C008S111000, C424S070100, C424SDIG003
Reexamination Certificate
active
06641618
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to ready-to-use aqueous compositions for bleaching keratin fibers, comprising a combination of at least one water-soluble solvent and at least one nonionic and/or anionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain, to a process for bleaching keratin fibers using these compositions, and to a packaging kit containing such a composition.
To bleach hair, it is possible to use aqueous compositions resulting from the mixing, at the time of application, of an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition, an aqueous composition containing an alkaline agent and at least one water-soluble solvent and a powder containing a peroxygenated reagent such as ammonium or alkali metal persulphates, perborates or percarbonates.
In the field of hair bleaching, bleaching compositions are generally sought that are thick enough to allow a precise application onto certain regions of the head of hair, and that do not run the risk of running onto the face or beyond the regions to be bleached.
The thickening or gelling effect is conventionally obtained with traditional thickeners such as cellulose derivatives, starch derivatives, alginates, thickening silicates or mixtures of carefully selected surfactants. However, when these traditional thickeners are used, there is a large decrease in the viscosity of the final bleaching composition over time.
There is thus a need for a thickening system capable of maintaining a high viscosity for the time required to obtain the desired bleaching effect, generally between ten minutes and one hour.
The inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to improve, considerably, the maintenance of the viscosity over time of the bleaching compositions described above by combining the initial system with a nonionic and/or anionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain.
They have also found that this thickening system allows much larger dilutions with aqueous hydrogen peroxide compositions than the known thickening systems.
One subject of the present invention is consequently a ready-to-use aqueous composition for bleaching keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers, comprising, in a medium suitable for bleaching, at least one alkaline agent, at least one water-soluble solvent, hydrogen peroxide, at least one peroxygenated salt and, in addition, at least one nonionic and/or anionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain.
A further subject of the invention is a process for bleaching keratin fibers using the aqueous bleaching composition described above, as well as a packaging kit containing such a composition.
Other subjects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the written description, the examples and the claims which follow, or may be learned upon practice of the invention. Both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description of the invention are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the claimed invention.
The nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain which can be used according to the present invention encompass, for example:
celluloses or hydroxyalkylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group containing an alkyl group which is preferably C
8
-C
22
, such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS from the company Aqualon, BERMOCOLL EHM 100 from the company Berol Nobel, or POLYSURF 67 from the company Hercules, or modified with polyalkoxylated alkylphenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 from the company Amerchol;
hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one C
8
-C
22
fatty chain such as the products ESAFLOR HM 22 (C
22
alkyl chain) from the company Lamberti, or MIRACARE XC95-3 (C
14
alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C
20
alkyl chain) from the company Rhone-Poulenc;
polyurethanes comprising at least one fatty chain of C
8
-C
30
alkyl or alkenyl type such as SER-AD FX 1100 from the company Servo Delben;
the SMDI (saturated methylene diphenyl diisocyanate) polyethylene glycol(s) copolymer with a decyl end group;
the SMDI (saturated methylene diphenyl diisocyanate) polyethylene glycol(s) copolymer with an alkyl (methyl/C
18
) end group, combined with a maltodextrin matrix;
the HMDI (hexamethylene diisocyanate) diurethane of oxyethylenated (66 EO) and oxypropylenated (14 PO) C
10
-C
18
alcohols, sold under the name ELFACOS T 212 by the company Akzo;
copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of hydrophobic monomers containing a fatty chain, such as the products ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 (poly(viny-lpyrrolidone/hexadecene)), ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 (poly(vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene)) from the company ISP;
copolymers of C
1
-C
6
alkyl (meth)acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain;
copolymers of hydrophilic (meth)acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example a poly(polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate).
Polyurethanes comprising at least one C
10
-C
20
alkyl fatty chain and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one C
8
-C
22
alkyl radical are particularly preferred.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain used according to the present invention are crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers comprising
hydrophilic units derived from one or more monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a free carboxylic acid function, and
hydrophobic units derived from one or more monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a hydrophobic side chain, and optionally
crosslinking units derived from one or more polyunsaturated monomers.
The monomer(s) containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a carboxylic acid function is(are) chosen from ethacrylic acid, methacrylic acid and acrylic acid, preferably from methacrylic acid and acrylic acid and mixtures thereof.
The monomer(s) containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a hydrophobic side chain can be (i) fatty alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, or (ii) allyl fatty alkyl ethers.
(i) The fatty alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are chosen, for example, from C
10
-C
30
, preferably C
12
-C
22
, alkyl ethacrylates, methacrylates and/or acrylates.
They encompass, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, as well as the corresponding methacrylates, i.e., lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
(ii) The allyl fatty alkyl ethers forming the hydrophobic units of the anionic amphiphilic polymers of the present invention correspond to the formula
CH
2
═CR′CH
2
—O—B
n
—R (I)
in which
R
1
is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
B is an ethylenoxy group,
n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100,
R is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl residues comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
One preferred unit of formula (I) according to the present invention is a unit in which R
1
represents a hydrogen atom, n is equal to 10 and R represents a stearyl (C
18
) radical.
The crosslinking monomer is a compound comprising at least two non-conjugated polymerizable double bonds. Examples include diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, polyallylsucrose or polyallylpentaerythritol.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of the type described above are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949 (copolymers of (eth/meth)acrylic acid and of C
10
-C
30
alkyl (eth/meth)acrylates), or in European patent EP-0 216 479 B2 (copolymers of (eth/meth)acrylic acid and of allyl fatty alcohol ethers), the disclosures of all of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
Examples of preferred polymers include:
crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid and of
Legrand Frédéric
Millequant Jean
Douyon Lorna M.
Elhilo Eisa
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
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