Process for the permanent deformation of hair

Toilet – Nail device – Compound tools

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424 72, A45D 700

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active

045329508

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
The subject of the present invention is a process for the permanent deformation of hair, using therein a deforming agent containing a minimum of one organic compound with an activated aliphatic multiple carbon-carbon bond, said compound serving to gradually reduce the concentration of the keratin-reducing substance contained in said deforming agent.
In the processes customary at present, permanent deformation of hair ensues in two stages. Initially, the effect of a suitable reducing agent will cause splitting of the disulfide bridges of hair keratin. The hair is then brought into a new shape and subsequently fixed in the new shape by treatment with a suitable oxidant, with concomitant rebonding of the previously split disulfide bonds.
The agents used for the implementation of the first, reducing, process stage contain as the substance effective in deforming and reducing keratin, sulfite or certain mercapto compounds, particularly thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, also in the form of their salts with inorganic bases, as well as, respectively, thioglycerin or derivatives of said mercapto compounds. These agents are usually of alkaline nature in order to obtain softening of the hair and thus quick penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the hair keratin.
The required alkalinity is obtained herein mainly by the addition of ammonia, organic amines, ammonium and alkaline carbonate, ammonium and alkaline hydrogen carbonate as well as alkaline hydroxides.
In order to obtain an adequate deformation of hair during the relatively short time in which these agents are effective upon the hair, the keratin-reducing substance effecting the deformation, as well as the aforenoted alkaline components of the preparations, must be used in large surplus quantities. The alkaline components remain fully active during the entire period of effectiveness. Their efficacy upon the gradually softening hair will, moreover, increase steadily in the course of the period of activity.
In the event that the aforedescribed reducing process stage is not interrupted in time and the reducing agent used therein is not thoroughly removed, the risk of damage to the hair will arise, for instance damage by excessive curling, breaking of hair or loss of hair. Hair that has been chemically damaged by previously effected permanent wave or dyeing treatment, and also thin hair, is particularly subject to such a risk. The different constitution of hair makes it therefore imperative to continually check the hair deformation obtained, this in order to determine the requisite period of activity.
Processes for the permanent deformation of hair are known, wherein the alkalinity is being continually increased during the reducing stage of the process, in order to avoid damage to the hair. A process is thus described in the German allowed application No. 1 089 124, wherein the alkalizing agent, ammonia, is being gradually rendered into an urea-containing deforming agent only by the addition of urease. The high concentration of the keratin-reducing component active in deforming, i.e. of the mercapto compound, will remain to a nearly unchanged extent herein.
The objective thus existed, of finding a process for the permanent deformation of hair which process, when compared to prior art, would allow a permanent, but hair-preserving, deformation.
This objective is attained to an outstanding degree by the process as per invention. The subject of the invention is thus a process for the permanent deformation of hair, wherein the hair is first being treated with a deforming agent, held in the desired shape, rinsed if needed, then being subjected to after-treatment with a fixing agent and rinsed, this process being characterized by using a deforming agent a mixture obtained from two components, with component 1 containing a substance reducing hair keratin whilst component 2 will employ a minimum of one organic compound containing an aliphatic multiple carbon-carbon bond and, furthermore, a carboxyl group bonded to said multiple bond either directly or by way of

REFERENCES:
patent: 3142623 (1964-07-01), Zviak
patent: 3583408 (1971-06-01), Wall
patent: 4409204 (1983-10-01), Lang
Cosmetics Science & Technology; 1957; p. 620 (Excerpt from Chapt. 24 `Permnent Waving`.

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