Process for manufacturing woven or knit fabrics using yarn dyed

Details Process for manufacturing woven or knit fabrics using yarn dyed Process for manufacturing woven or knit fabrics using yarn dyed

1997-05-22

1998-12-15

Einsmann, Margaret

Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification

Using enzymes, dye process, composition, or product of dyeing

8494, 8917, 81281, D06L 100, D06P 324, D06P 502

Patent

active

058490400

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Technical Field
The present invention relates to a process for manufacturing woven or knit fabrics using sericin fixed yarn dyed raw silk and the woven or knit fabrics manufactured by the same process.
2. Related Art
Prior art yarn dyed silk woven fabrics have been manufactured from silk in which sericin or silk glue (about 25% of the total weight of raw silk) which covers the periphery of the raw silk fibers is removed and thereafter only fibroin is dyed (the same may be applied to the knit silk fabrics).
In order to twist yarn hard after sericin has been removed, it is generally carried out after conducting shrink proofing and twist setting for the silk yarns by using starch. However, manufacturing a great quantity of silk fabrics for Japanese and Western clothes by this manufacturing process has encountered processing problems and is expensive due to the cost of yarn twisting or fabric manufacturing. Thus, the fabrics manufactured by this process have been used in only a restricted field of high grade Japanese clothes, such as kimono. Such a traditional technology has a tendency to decline with the time due to problem in technical successors.
Due to these problems, few yarn dyed, hard twisted silk fabrics have been used. Piece dyed woven or knit fabrics have been predominantly used in silk fabrics. There is a restriction that shrink-proofing and twist setting of silk yarns can not be achieved unless almost 100% sericin is left in order to manufacture the fabrics using both wefts and warps of hard twisted yarns. Under this condition, the piece dyed fabrics are manufactured by following the steps as follows: (1) manufacturing of raw silk; (2) soaking and drying; (3) winding; (4) first twisting; (5) doubling and twisting; (6) final twisting and twist setting; (7) weaving or knitting; (8) scouring (degumming) at a plant; (9) dyeing; (10) product.


______________________________________ 1. Preliminary scouring 98.degree. C., 320 minutes (5 hours (alkali scouring) 20 minutes) 2. Main scouring 98.degree. C., 600 minutes (10 hours) (alkali scouring) 3. Finishing scouring 98.degree. C., 60 minutes (one hour) (alkali scouring) 4. Drying finishing 5. Tentering, softening finishing ______________________________________
It takes an extended rime. In order to shorten the period of time taken for preliminary and main scouring steps, a high pressure scouring may be conducted. Since the fabrics are dyed after removal of sericin to produce the piece dyed fabrics, the finished fabrics have various problems which will be described hereafter.
These problems occur due to the dyeing method which is adopted to conduct the piece dyeing method A prior art method of dyeing 100% silk fabrics having a large width will be briefly described with reference to FIG. 1. The prior art method which has previously been adopted as a method of dyeing fabrics having a large width is referred to as "suspend dyeing". An elongated and wide fabric 14 which is disposed in serpentine or spiral manner as shown in FIGS. 1(b) and 1(c), respectively is suspended from parallel or radial bars 10 with equal length threads 12 so that it is dipped into hot water and dye 16 in a dyeing tub 18 as shown in FIG. 1(a).
A first problem of the piece dyed fabric resides in that the upper side of the fabric 14 to which threads 12 are bound is dyed to a color different from that of the lower side thereof if the fabric 14 has a width of about 114 cm or more. The condition of the dyed fabric 14 is schematically illustrated in FIG. 9. The fabric 14 is actually extended in a transverse direction in FIG. 2. The upper portion 14a (from the upper side 14c of the fabric 14 to about 114 cm lower position) is dyed to a specified color although the lower portion 14b (from the about 114 cm position to the lower side 14d of the fabric 14) generally exhibits dense and light fading colors. It is estimated that this is due to the fact that the temperature of the hot water and mixing ratio of the dye 16 in the vicinity of the sur

REFERENCES:
patent: 1366705 (1921-01-01), Rosenstock
patent: 5538519 (1996-07-01), Horiguchi et al.

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