Process for determining the degeneration level of keratinic...

Measuring and testing – Liquid analysis or analysis of the suspension of solids in a... – By vibration

Reexamination Certificate

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C073S866000, C424S070100, C132S202000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06672143

ABSTRACT:

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to a process for determining damage to keratinous fibers.
Keratinous fibers—whether as useful materials, such as wool, or as part of biological systems, such as human hair—are exposed to a number of environmental influences which can lead to more or less serious damage to the fibers. In the case of human hair, these can include natural influences, such as strong solar radiation. However, there are also artificial influences, such as blow-drying, combing or brushing and bleaching, permanent waving or coloring, which can also damage the hair if practiced too frequently, too intensively or unprofessionally.
Now, it can be of enormous advantage for the success of certain hair treatments if the hairdresser carrying out the treatment knows the extent to which the hair has been damaged. He/she is then able—on the basis of professional knowledge—to adapt the treatment to the particular degree of damage to the hair or, where necessary, to apply a preliminary repair treatment. In addition, in the case of coloring, it can be critical in the interests of evenness to know whether there is uniform hair damage or no damage at all or whether different parts of the hair have been damaged to different extents, for example hardly any damage at the roots but serious damage at the tips.
Unfortunately, determining the degree of damage by known methods is relatively complicated and, in addition, calls for considerable experience and professional knowledge on the part of the person responsible.
Accordingly, there is a need for a simple process that would enable the degree of damage to keratinous fibers to be at least qualitatively or semiquantitatively determined both simply and quickly. This process would enable the professional hairdresser to determine the individual degree of damage to the hair both quickly and simply and, at the same time, reliably immediately before carrying out the treatment. Ideally, however, this process would enable consumers with no relevant knowledge or experience to choose the optimal product for the degree of damage to his/her hair from the ever increasing selection of modern hair care and hair treatment products.
It has now surprisingly been found that information on the degree of damage to keratinous fibers can be obtained in a quick, simple and highly reproducible manner by means of a preparation comprising two immiscible continuous liquid phases differing in density and polarity.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Accordingly, the present invention relates to a process for determining the degree of damage to keratinous fibers, more particularly human hair, which is characterized in that the fibers are introduced into a container holding a liquid preparation comprising at least two immiscible continuous liquid phases A, B and optionally C, which differ in their densities at 20° C. by at least 0.04 g/ml, and an impulse is applied to the system.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Keratinous fibers in the context of the invention are understood to include wool, pelts and feathers, but especially human hair.
The process according to the invention is based on observations made when hair fibers are introduced into a system of two immiscible liquids differing in polarity. Providing certain conditions—described in detail hereinafter—are maintained, undamaged or lightly damaged fibers preferentially collect in the nonpolar phase while seriously damaged fibers preferentially collect in the polar phase.
In one preferred embodiment, the liquid preparation according to the invention comprises two immiscible continuous phases A and B. The liquid phase with the greater polarity is referred to hereinafter as phase A.
In the context of the present invention, the definition of the “polarity” of a phase relates to the dipole moment of the substance(s) forming the phase. Most of phase A, i.e. 90% by weight or more, based on phase A, is preferably formed by substances with a dipole moment of 1.0 debye or more.
In a first preferred embodiment, all of phase A or more than 90% by weight, based on phase A, consists of water. Other suitable components are, preferably, surfactants, dyes and inorganic or organic salts and perfume oils.
Anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants may be used as the surfactants.
Anionic surfactants suitable for carrying out the process according to the invention are any known anionic surfactants. Such surfactants are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group containing about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are:
linear fatty acids containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
ether carboxylic acids corresponding to the formula R—O(—CH
2
—CH
2
O)
x
—CH
2
—COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x=0 or 1 to 16,
amide ether carboxylates corresponding to the formula [R—NH(—CH
2
—CH
2
—O)
n
—CH
2
—COO]
m
Z, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl group containing 2 to 29 carbon atoms, n is an integer of 1 to 10, m has a value of 1 or 2 and Z is a cation from the group of alkali or alkaline earth metals,
acyl sarcosides containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
acyl taurides containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
acyl isethionates containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
sulfosuccinic acid monoesters and dialkyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
linear alkane sulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
linear &agr;-olefin sulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
&agr;-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates corresponding to the formula R—O(—CH
2
—CH
2
O)
x
—SO
3
H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x=0 or 1 to 12,
mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or hydroxyalkyl polypropylene glycol ethers according to DE-A 37 23 354,
sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A 39 26 344,
esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which represent products of the addition of about 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
coconut monoglyceride sulfates
in the form of the sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium and mono-, di- and/or trialkanolammonium salts containing 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group.
Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl and dialkyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as their hydrophilic group. Corresponding compounds are, for example,
products of the addition of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
C
12-22
fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
C
8-22
alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated analogs thereof and
produc

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