Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Polymer containing
Patent
1999-02-25
2000-11-14
Page, Thurman K.
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Polymer containing
424 702, 424 704, 424 7051, A61K 706, A61K 709
Patent
active
061466190
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to a process for the permanent deforming of keratin fibers, more particularly human hair, and to formulations suitable for use in this process.
The permanent deforming of keratin fibers is normally carried out by mechanically deforming the fibers and fixing the deformation by suitable auxiliaries. Before and/or after their deformation, the fibers are treated with an aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance (wave lotion) and, after a contact time, are rinsed with water or with an aqueous solution. In a second step, the fibers are treated with an aqueous preparation of an oxidation agent (fixing lotion). After a certain contact time, the oxidizing agent is also rinsed out and the mechanical deforming aids (curlers, rollers) are removed from the fibers.
The wave lotion is normally alkalized so that the fiber swells and, as a result, the keratin-reducing substance is able to penetrate deeply into the fiber. The keratin-reducing substance splits some of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to --SH groups so that the peptide linkage is loosened and, through the stretching of the fibers by their mechanical deformation, the keratin structure is re-oriented. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent, disulfide bonds are re-established and, in this way, the deformation which the keratin structure has undergone is fixed.
A known process of the type in question is the permanent waving of human hair. This process may be applied both to produce curls and waves in straight hair and to straighten curly hair.
Although this process--known as permanent waving--is now widely used, it still cannot be considered to be optimal in regard to several parameters.
A crucial factor in achieving the required deformation is the so-called "strength" of the wave lotion which can be influenced through the quantity and type of reducing agent used and through the alkalinity of the wave lotion. However, wave lotions which guarantee satisfactory reshaping can cause damage to the point of breakage in the case of mismanaged hair and particularly in the case of oxidatively pretreated hair. In some cases, the scalp can also be adversely affected.
In addition, the usual acidification of the fixing lotion is not sufficient in most cases to return the hair to its original pH value within the contact time. The effect of this is that permanently waved hair is very susceptible, particularly to mechanical stressing, within the first few days of the treatment.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
It has now surprisingly been found that the two above-mentioned drawbacks in particular can be remedied to a large extent by using a special combination of active substances. By adding this combination of active substances either to the wave lotion itself or to an additional intermediate rinse before fixing, the waving performance of the process can be increased to such an extent that either the alkalinity of the wave lotion can be reduced, milder reducing agents can be used and/or the reducing agent can be used in a smaller quantity. Conversely, it is possible by adding this combination of active substances to conventional wave lotions or intermediate rinses to obtain a stronger and longer-lasting wave effect.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to a process for the permanent deforming of keratin fibers, in which certain time with an aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance (wave lotion), an oxidizing agent (fixing lotion) and the wave lotion and/or the intermediate treatment contains a combination of active substances consisting of inorganic or organic acid and a divalent cation or Al.sup.3+ and B.sub.5 and derivatives thereof.
The details of the teaching according to the invention are discussed in the following with reference to permanent wave formulations. However, the teaching may also be used with equal effect and with the same advantages for straightening naturally curled or chemically waved hair.
According to the invention, the active-substance combination mentioned above may be pr
REFERENCES:
patent: 3910289 (1975-10-01), Wajaroff et al.
patent: 4834971 (1989-05-01), Klenk et al.
D.H. Kirby in KPDR No. 1/2, p. 3-6 (1958).
Derwent Patent Abstract (WPAT) No. 88-050788/08.
Derwent Patent Abstract (WPAT) No. 92-332907/41.
Derwent Patent Abstract (WPAT) No. 96-188188/19.
Cortekar Hans-Wolfgang
Oberkobusch Doris
Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien
Howard S.
J. Murphy Glenn E.
Jaeschke Wayne C.
Page Thurman K.
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