Permanent-waving process comprising the preliminary...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Permanent waving or straightening

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S070100, C424S070200, C424S070110, C424S401000, C132S204000, C132S205000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06471953

ABSTRACT:

A subject of the invention is a process for the permanent deformation of the hair comprising the preliminary application of a composition that comprises at least one anionic polymer. The invention is also targeted at the use of such a composition for the permanent waving of the hair before the application of the reducing composition, as well as at a kit comprising, in addition to a reducing composition and a neutralizing composition, a third separate composition comprising at least one anionic polymer.
It is known to use cationic polymers in reducing or neutralizing compositions for the permanent deformation of the hair. It is generally known that these polymers improve the cosmetic properties of the hair after the treatment. For example, the hair's touch is often softer and its appearance smoother than that of hair treated with formulations not comprising such polymers.
But, cationic polymers generally exhibit the disadvantage of rendering the hair lank; the hair becomes soft and lacks strength. Naturally, this is harmful both to the look of the hairstyle and to its hold over time. This is because, contrary to the wish of the person involved, the curls produced by the permanent wave begin to deform and then quickly disappear. Finally, cationic polymers often render the hair difficult to style.
A need therefore exists to find a process for the permanent deformation of the hair, which does not give rise to the disadvantages expressed hereinabove or at least lessens one or more of these disadvantages and which in particular may provide the hair with good cosmetic properties and may also provide the hair with lasting deformations, curls, or ringlets and in addition can render the hair easy to style.
The Inventors have discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that it is possible to solve or at least lessen these problems by the preliminary application to the hair of a composition, which is separate and distinct from the reducing and neutralizing compositions and comprises at least one anionic polymer, before applying the reducing composition for the permanent wave.
A subject of the invention is a process for the permanent deformation of the hair comprising the successive application to the hair of a reducing composition (a) and then of a neutralizing composition (b), at least one of these compositions (a) or (b) comprising at least one cationic polymer, wherein a third composition (c), which is distinct from compositions (a) and (b) and comprises at least one anionic polymer, is applied to the hair before the application of the reducing composition (a). The hair is rinsed, preferably only after having applied the (or at least one of the) composition(s) comprising the cationic polymer(s). As would be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art, the reducing composition (a), neutralizing composition (b), and third composition (c) may be applied to the entire length of the hair.
Another subject of the invention relates to the use in permanent waving of a composition (c) comprising at least one anionic polymer before the application of the reducing composition (a).
Another subject of the invention relates to a kit comprising a first separate compartment comprising a reducing composition (a) and second separate compartment comprising a neutralizing composition (b), wherein at least one of the reducing composition (a) and neutralizing composition (b) comprises at least one cationic polymer, and further wherein the kit additionally comprises a third separate compartment comprising a third composition (c) comprising at least one anionic polymer.
According to one of the advantageous embodiments of the process according to the invention, only the reducing composition (a) comprises a cationic polymer and rinsing is optionally carried out between the application of the reducing composition (a) and of the neutralizing composition (b).
According to another one of the advantageous embodiments of the process according to the invention, only the neutralizing composition (b) comprises a cationic polymer. In this case, the hair is preferably not rinsed between the application of the reducing composition (a) and of the neutralizing composition (b).
According to yet another one of the advantageous embodiments of the process according to the invention, the reducing composition (a) and the neutralizing composition (b) both comprise a cationic polymer and rinsing is optionally carried out between the application of the reducing composition (a) and of the neutralizing composition (b). More preferably, rinsing is not carried out between the application of the reducing composition (a) and of the neutralizing composition (b).
More generally still, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer comprising cationic groups or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups.
The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that comprise units chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary, and quaternary amine groups. The units can either form part of the main polymer chain and/or be carried by a side substituent directly connected to the latter.
The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from approximately 500 to approximately 5×10
6
and preferably from approximately 10
3
to approximately 3×10
6
.
Mention may more particularly be made, among the cationic polymers, of the polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, and poly(quaternary ammonium) type. These are known products.
One family of cationic polymers is that of the silicone cationic polymers. Mention may be made, among these polymers, of:
(A) Silicone polymers corresponding to the following formula (IV):
R
6
a
G
5
3−a
—Si(OSiG
6
2
)
n
—(OSiG
7
b
R
7
2−b
)
m
—O—SiG
8
3−a′
—R
8
a′
  (IV)
in which G
5
, G
6
, G
7
, and G
8
, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, an OH group, a C
1
-C
18
alkyl group such as methyl, a C
2
-C
18
alkenyl group, and a C
1-C
18
alkoxy group; a and a′, which are identical or different, denote an integer from 0 to 3, in particular 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and in particular 1; m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000 and especially from 50 to 150; n denotes a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149; m denotes a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; R
6
, R
7
, and R
8
, which are identical or different, are chosen from monovalent groups of the formula:
—C
q
H
2q
O
s
R
9
t
L
in which q is an integer from 1 to 18; s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or to 1; each R
9
is identical or different and is chosen from optionally hydroxylated alkylene groups; and each L is identical or different and is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from —NR″—CH
2
—CH
2
—N′(R″)
2
, —N(R″)
2
, —N⊕(R″)
3
A

, —N⊕H(R″)
2
A

, —N⊕H
2
(R″)
2
A

, and —N(R″)—CH
2
—CH
2
—N⊕R″H
2
A

in which each R″ is identical or different and is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, and saturated monovalent hydrocarbonaceous groups for example alkyl groups having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; and A

represents a halide ion, such as, for example fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide. As used hereinafter, alkylene refers to divalent alkyl groups.
Products corresponding to this definition are, for example, the polysiloxanes named “amodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary which correspond to the following formula (V):
in which x′ and y′ are integers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that the said molecular weight ranges from approximately 5000 to approximately 20,000.
A product corresponding to the formula (IV) is the polymer named “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary, corresponding to the formula:
in which n and m have the meanings given above (cf. formula IV).
A commercial product corresponding to this defini

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