Permanent process and agent

Details Permanent process and agent Permanent process and agent

1997-10-06

1999-08-10

Cook, Rebecca

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live hair or scalp treating compositions

Permanent waving or straightening

424 702, A61K 706

Patent

active

059355620

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a composition for permanent hairwaving containing as a keratin-reducing active ingredient 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose or its salts, particularly 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose-ammonium salts or sodium salt dihydrate, as well as a process for permanent hairwaving using this composition.
2. Prior Art
It is known that the customary method for performing permanent hairwaving is based on two treatment steps: in the first step the cystine-disulfide-bridges of the hair keratin are split by the effects of a preparation which contains a reducing substance (waving composition). Then the hair is shaped as desired. In a second step, cystine-disulfide-bonds are closed again through the use of a neutralizer, i.e. a preparation containing an oxidizing active ingredient.
As the pioneering work in German Patent Applications 948 186 and 972 424 shows, thioglycolic acid is used as the classic permanent reduction agent, for example as ammonium or mono-ethanol amine salt. Other conventional active reducing substances are inorganic sulfites, 2-mercapto propionic acid (thiolactic acid); 3-mercapto propionic acid, certain mercapto carboxylic acid esters, cysteine and derivatives of these compounds.
However, all of these solutions have a number of disadvantages. Alkaline adjusted preparations based on thiocarboxylic acid exhibit damage to the hair despite sufficient effects, which for example presents itself in increased cases of hair breakage. Frequently these types of solutions stress the scalp by undesirable reactions. The mercapto carboxylic acid esters, which make hairwaving possible even in the neutral and slightly acidic range, are not satisfactory with regard to their tolerance by the skin and their sensitizing risks.
The use of the thiolactic acid makes it possible to solve some of the problems mentioned. However, thiolactic acid produces a weaker shaping effect than the customarily used thioglycolic acid.


SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is therefore the object of the applicant to make a hairwaving composition available, which satisfactorily produces a permanent wave of the hair in a pH range of 7.0 to 8.5 which is gentle to the skin and to the hair and does not have any physiological disadvantages.
It was now surprisingly discovery that the above mentioned disadvantages can be avoided by using 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose or its salts, particularly 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose-sodium salt dihydrate, and that these compounds show a higher shaping potential than thiolactic acid, particularly in a pH range of 7.0 to 8.5.
Therefore, the subject of the instant invention is a composition for permanent hairwaving based on a keratin-reducing active ingredient, which is distinguished in that it contains 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose or its salts, particularly 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose sodium salt dihydrate, as the keratin-reducing active ingredient. Ammonium or sodium salt in particular is suitable as the salt, but also any other water-soluble, physiologically tolerated salt with organic and inorganic bases.
The 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose or its salts should preferably be contained in the ready-to-use composition for permanent hairwaving in an amount of 3 to 28 weight-percent and most preferred in an amount of 5 to 21 weight-percent.
The ready-to-use hairwaving composition has a pH value of 7 to 8.5, preferably 7.5 to 8.5, wherein as a rule alkalizing can be achieved by adding ammonium hydrogen carbonate, besides ammonia.
The composition preferably contains 1-thio-.beta.-D-glucose or its salts as the sole keratin-reducing active ingredient. However, it can also be used in combination with other keratin-reducing active ingredients, for example thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-mercapto propionic acid, cysteamine and cysteamine derivatives or cysteine and cysteine derivatives, for example cysteine-(2-hydroxy ethyl)-ester or L-cysteine-glycerine ester.
The shaping composition can be prepared in the form of a one-, two- or three-component preparation, wherein the co

REFERENCES:
patent: 5338847 (1994-08-01), McCapra
patent: 5451738 (1995-09-01), Teramoto et al.
patent: 5521289 (1996-05-01), Hainfeld et al.

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