Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Polymer containing
Reexamination Certificate
1999-05-12
2001-10-30
Kulkosky, Peter F. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Polymer containing
C424S070122, C424S070310, C424S401000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06309628
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to cosmetic formulations containing (a) selected pearlescent waxes, (b) silicone compounds and (c) selected emulsifiers and to the use of the mixtures for the production of pearlescent silicone shampoos.
Up to 15 years ago, hair shampoos generally consisted solely of water and surfactants which was undoubtedly quite adequate so far as the cleaning and degreasing of the hair was concerned. With the enlightenment of consumers as to the risks involved in handling cosmetic ingredients and with the demand for products which not only clean, but also have a caring effect, the requirements which modern cosmetic formulations in general and hair shampoos in particular are expected to satisfy have steadily become more stringent. The consumer justifiably expects the products to show maximum dermatological compatibility, i.e. irritation of the skin and mucous membrane should be reliably avoided, even in the event of frequent use by particularly sensitive people. So far as personal care is concerned, the formulations are also expected to improve the combability of hair, i.e. to have a conditioning and antistatic effect. Finally, it has been found that the appearance of the formulations, i.e. for example a brilliant pearlescence, has a positive effect on consumers interested in buying them.
For the reasons mentioned, modern hair shampoos often contain mild surfactants, pearlescent waxes, for example ethylene glycol bis-stearate, and silicone compounds with conditioning properties. Unfortunately, the formulation possibilities of these products are limited because silicones tend to cloud in aqueous solutions and to form an organic phase with the result that the appearance of the product suffers and its pearlescence loses brilliance. An overview of modern pearlescent formulations was published by A. Ansmann et al. in Parf. Kosm. 75, 578 (1994).
Pearlescent concentrates containing acylated ethylene glycols as pearlescent waxes together with alkyl glucosides are known, for example, from European patents EP-B1 0 376 083 and EP-B1 0 570 398 (Henkel). Compositions containing alkyl oligoglycosides, silicones liquid at room temperature and pearlescent waxes of the acylated ethylene glycol type are described in European patents EP-B1 0 377 354 and EP-B1 0 398 177 (Kao).
Accordingly, the complex problem addressed by the present invention was to provide new cosmetic formulations, more particularly pearlescent silicone shampoos, which would be distinguished by brilliant pearlescence, high stability in storage, excellent conditioning properties and particular dermatological compatibility.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to cosmetic formulations containing
(a) dialkyl ethers corresponding to formula (I):
R
1
—O—R
2
(I)
in which R
1
and R
2
independently of one another represent linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl groups containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms,
(b) silicone compounds and
(c) emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides, alkyl ether sulfates and/or betaines.
It has surprisingly been found that, by selecting suitable pearlescent waxes and emulsifiers, it is possible to obtain mixtures which are capable of stabilizing silicone compounds in aqueous formulations, more particularly hair shampoos, so that the products have the necessary stability in storage. At the same time, the cooperation of the distearyl ethers with the silicone compounds results in a synergistic improvement both in the pearlescent effect and in the conditioning properties. The invention includes the observation that the mixtures also show particularly advantageous dermatological compatibility.
Dialkyl ethers
Dialkyl ethers suitable as pearlescent component (a) are normally prepared by condensation of corresponding fatty alcohols [Bull. Soc. Chim. France 333 (1949)]. Typical examples are dilauryl ether, dimyristyl ether, dicetyl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioleyl ether, dibehenyl ether and dierucyl ether. Distearyl ether is preferably used. The pearlescent waxes may have an average particle size of 0.1 to 20 &mgr;m, preferably 5 to 15 &mgr;m and more preferably 12 to 14 &mgr;m.
Silicone compounds
Silicone compounds suitable for use as component (b) are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methyl phenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine- and/or alkyl-modified silicones which may be present both in liquid form and in resin-like form at room temperature.
Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides
Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides suitable as emulsifier component (c) are known nonionic surfactants which correspond to formula (II):
R
3
O—[G]
p
(II)
where R
3
is an alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number of 1 to 10. They may be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry, for example by acid-catalyzed acetalization of glucose with fatty alcohols.
The alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be derived from aldoses or ketoses containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. Accordingly, the preferred alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index p in general formula (II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and is a number of 1 to 10. Whereas p in a given compound must always be an integer and, above all, may assume a value of 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity which is generally a broken number. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having a degree of oligomerization of less than 1.7 and, more particularly, between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred from the applicational point of view.
The alkyl or alkenyl group R
3
may be derived from primary alcohols containing 4 to 11 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides having a chain length of C
8
to C
10
(DP=1 to 3), which are obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical C
8-18
coconut oil fatty alcohol by distillation and which may contain less than 6% by weight of C
12
alcohol as an impurity, and also alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C
9/11
oxoalcohols (DP=1 to 3) are preferred. In addition, the alkyl or alkenyl group R
3
may also be derived from primary alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which may be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C1
2,14
coconut oil fatty alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.
Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides
Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides, which are also suitable as emulsifier component (c), are nonionic surfactants which correspond to formula (III):
where R
4
CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R
5
is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl group containing 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known compounds which may normally be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with an
Ansmann Achim
Fabry Bernd
Drach John E.
Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien
Kulkosky Peter F.
Trzaska Steven J.
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