Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Bleach for live hair or skin
Reexamination Certificate
1998-10-27
2001-11-06
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Bleach for live hair or skin
C424S401000, C424S070100, C424S070200, C514S880000, C132S202000, C008S406000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06312674
ABSTRACT:
The invention relates to an oxidizing cosmetic composition in order to carry out a bleaching or permanent reshaping operation on the hair, and to processes for treating keratin substances, in particular the hair, in order to obtain permanent reshaping of these substances, in particular in the form of permanent-waved hair, or to obtain bleaching of these substances.
It is known that the most common technique for obtaining a permanent reshaping of the hair consists, in a first stage, in opening the —S—S-disulphide bonds of keratin (cystine) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (the reduction step) and then, after the hair thus treated has been rinsed, in reforming, in a second stage, the said disulphide bonds by applying to the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand (curlers and the like), an oxidizing composition (the oxidation step, also known as the fixing step) in order finally to give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible either to make the hair wavy or to straighten it or remove curls therefrom. The new shape given to the hair by a chemical treatment as above is considerably long-lasting and withstands, in particular, the action of washing with water or with shampoo, this being in contrast with simple standard techniques for temporary reshaping, such as hairsetting.
The reducing compositions which may be used to carry out the first step of a permanent-waving operation generally contain sulphites, bisulphites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols as reducing agents. Among these reducing agents, those commonly used are cysteine and various derivatives thereof, cysteamine and derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, salts thereof and esters thereof, in particular glyceryl thioglycolate.
As regards the oxidizing compositions needed to carry out the fixing step, use is usually made, in practice, of compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or on alkaline bromates.
The problem with the technique of the permanent-waving compositions known to date is that applying them to the hair causes, in the long term, damage to the hair quality. The essential causes of this damage to the hair quality are a decrease in its cosmetic properties, such as its sheen, and a deterioration in its mechanical properties, more particularly a deterioration in its mechanical strength, due to swelling of the keratin fibres during the rinsing operation between the reduction step and the oxidation step, which may also be reflected by an increase in its porosity.
The hair is weakened and may become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying.
The same problem of damage to the keratin fibre is encountered during processes for dyeing or bleaching the hair. This hair is sensitized, that is to say damaged, to varying degrees by mechanical or chemical hair treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching and/or permanent-waving operations.
To solve this problem of damage to the hair quality, provision has been made to combine cationic polymers either with the reducing agents or with the oxidizing agents.
However, these solutions prove to be unsatisfactory since they do not entirely solve the problem of the decrease in the mechanical properties of the hair. In particular, in the case of a permanent reshaping treatment of the hair, this hair has an unsatisfactory feel and the curl hold is insufficient.
The aim of the present invention is, in particular, to solve the above problems.
More precisely, the aim of the invention is to provide a novel oxidizing composition which, when used in particular during the second stage of a permanent reshaping operation on the hair, makes it possible to limit, or even prevent altogether, the deterioration in the mechanical properties of the keratin substances, and more particularly breaking of the hair, and to obtain beautiful curls that withstand blow-drying and have good hold.
The aim of the invention is also to provide an oxidizing composition as above which makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties, such as the softness and the ease of disentangling, of keratin fibres when they undergo, in particular, a permanent reshaping treatment.
Lastly, the aim of the present invention is to provide a novel process for the permanent reshaping of the hair using the oxidizing composition according to the invention.
Provision has been made, in Applications EP-A-0,647,617 and FR-A-2,673,179 in the name of the Applicant, to use specific ceramides in combination with lipids as an envelope for vesicles encapsulating water-soluble active substances, it being possible for these active substances to be, inter alia, oxidizing usagents, in order to protect the said active substances from the various harmful agents and from the reactive compounds which may be present in the composition.
Now, the Applicant has just discovered, entirely surprisingly, that the use of ceramide-type compounds in the oxidizing composition of a permanent reshaping process which is free of vesicles encapsulating an oxidizing agent makes it possible to obtain hair fibres which are in excellent condition at the end of the permanent-waving process.
The subject of the present invention is thus a novel oxidizing composition comprising, in a suitable cosmetic vehicle, i) at least one ceramide-type compound and ii) at least one oxidizing agent chosen from the group formed by aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, alkaline bromates, persalts and polythionates or mixtures thereof, the said ceramide-type compound being present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the said composition being free of vesicles containing an oxidizing agent.
The subject of the present invention is also a novel process for treating keratin substances, in particular the hair, in order to obtain permanent reshaping of the hair, in particular in the form of permanent-waved hair, this process comprising the following steps: (i) a reducing composition is applied to the keratin substance to be treated, the keratin substance being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after the said application, (ii) the keratin substance is optionally rinsed, (iii) an oxidizing composition as defined above is applied to the optionally rinsed keratin substance, (iv) the keratin substance is optionally rinsed again.
The process according to the invention is particularly suitable for obtaining permanent-waved hair without the risk of deterioration of the keratin fibres. In particular, the process according to the invention limits breaking of the hair. Beautiful uniform curls are obtained, as well as better hold of the hairstyle. Hair treated according to the process of the invention feels pleasant when wet and is easier to style. The shape acquired by hair which has undergone the permanent reshaping treatment according to the invention also has good persistence over time with respect to shampooing.
The subject of the present invention is also a novel process for bleaching keratin substances, in particular the hair, comprising the following steps: i) an oxidizing composition according to the invention is applied to the keratin substance, this composition preferably comprising aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution alone or in the presence of persalts in alkaline medium, ii) the keratin substance thus treated is rinsed.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description which follows, as well as various concrete, but in no way limiting, examples intended to illustrate it.
Although the account which follows focuses essentially on the specific case of treatment of the hair, it will be noted here that the process according to the invention is applicable to any keratin substance in general, in particular eyelashes, moustaches, body hair, wool and the like.
Hereinabove and hereinbelow, the term vesicles is understood to refer to lipid spherules made of organized molecular layers containing an encapsulated aqueous phase, the
Braida-Valerio Demarys
Maubru Mireille
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal
Page Thurman K.
Seidleck Brian K.
LandOfFree
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