Oxidation dyeing process and oxidation dye composition for...

Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification – Dyeing involving animal-derived natural fiber material ,... – Hair dyeing

Reexamination Certificate

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C008S407000, C008S408000, C008S435000, C008S554000, C008S561000, C008S562000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06673124

ABSTRACT:

The invention relates to an oxidation dyeing process for keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, with compositions comprising, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye precursor, optionally one or more couplers, at least one oxidizing agent and at least one cationic amphiphilic polymer.
It is a well known practice to dye keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, which are generally referred to as “oxidation bases”, in particular ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases.
Oxidation dye precursors are compounds which are initially colourless or only weakly coloured, and which develop their dyeing power on the hair in the presence of an oxidizing agent. The formation of the coloured compounds results either from a condensation of the “oxidation bases” with themselves or from a condensation of the “oxidation bases” with coloration modifier compounds, or “couplers”, which are generally present in the dye compositions used in oxidation dyeing and which are represented more particularly by meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols and meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds.
The variety of molecules used, which consist of the “oxidation bases”, and of the “couplers”, allows a wide variety of colours to be obtained.
During application of the coloration product onto the hair, it is necessary to keep this product on the application area and to prevent it from running onto the face or outside the zones which it is desired to dye. For this, use has been made of traditional thickeners such as crosslinked poly(acrylic acid), hydroxyethylcelluloses, waxes or even certain nonionic surfactants which, when suitably chosen, give rise to a thickening effect, or even a gelling effect, of aqueous media.
However, the inventors have observed that the ingredients of the traditional thickener type, surfactants and solvents, generally halt the rise of the dye on the fibres, which is reflected in less luminous shades. In order to obtain equivalent chromaticity, it is then necessary to use larger amounts of dyes as well as more solvent and/or more surfactants to dissolve these dyes.
The inventors have also found that compositions containing the oxidation dye precursor(s) and, optionally, the coupler(s), and thickened with traditional thickeners, lose some of their gelled nature when they are mixed with the composition containing the oxidizing agent.
After extensive research conducted in this field, the inventors have discovered that introducing an effective amount of a specific cationic associative polymer, as thickener,
(i) either into the composition containing the oxidation dye precursor(s) and, optionally, the coupler(s) (Composition A),
(ii) or into the oxidizing composition (Composition B),
(iii) or into the two compositions (A and B) at the same time,
gives oxidation dye compositions which, even after mixing with the oxidizing agent, do not run and consequently remain better localized at the point of application. These compositions, moreover, give rise to more chromatic (more luminous) shades and more intense shades than do equivalent compositions containing usual thickener systems.
The colorations obtained moreover have good resistance to perspiration.
For the purposes of the invention, the chromaticity (luminosity) is defined by the value C* in the L*, a*, b* colorimetric notation system of the Commission Internationale de l'Éclairage (C.I.E.) [International Commission on Illumination]. This value is equal to the square root of the sum a
2
+b
2
(+a is red, −a is green, +b is yellow, −b is blue). A shade is proportionately more luminous the larger the value of C*. In this notation system, L* defines the intensity of the shade. The shade is proportionately more intense the lower the value of L* (0=black, 100=white).
By means of the invention, it is also possible to advantageously reduce, or even dispense with altogether, the use of surfactants.
The invention also makes it possible to reduce the amount of colouring active materials used in the dye compositions when compared with the conventional and known techniques of the prior art.
According to the invention, the term “associative polymers” means water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules. The chemical structure of these polymers, also known as “amphiphilic polymers”, is characterized by the presence of hydrophilic zones which provide the water-solubility, and of hydrophobic zones by which the polymers, in an aqueous medium, assemble with each other or with the hydrophobic parts of other molecules.
One subject of the invention is thus a process for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which comprises applying to the fibres an oxidation dye composition (A) containing, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye precursor and optionally one or more couplers, and in developing the colour in alkaline, neutral or acidic medium using an oxidizing composition (B) containing an oxidizing agent, at least one of the compositions (A) and (B) also containing an effective amount of at least one cationic amphiphilic polymer chosen from:
quaternized celluloses modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain selected from alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, preferably containing at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which, of course, includes mixtures thereof, and
quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain selected from alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, preferably containing at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which, of course, includes mixtures thereof,
preferably the compositions (A) and (B) being mixed together immediately before use or applied one after the other to the keratin fibres.
Another subject of the invention is also an oxidation dye composition for keratin fibres, in particular for human keratin fibres, which comprises, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye precursor, where appropriate, one or more couplers and at least one cationic amphiphilic polymer chosen from:
quaternized celluloses modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain selected from alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, preferably containing at least 8 carbon atoms, which, of course, includes mixtures thereof, and
quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain selected from alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, preferably containing at least 8 carbon atoms, which, of course, includes mixtures thereof.
Another subject of the invention is an oxidizing composition which is used to develop the colour of an oxidation dye composition and comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one cationic amphiphilic polymer as defined above.
Yet another subject of the invention is a ready-to-use composition for dyeing keratin fibres, which contains at least one oxidation dye precursor, optionally one or more couplers, at least one cationic amphiphilic polymer as defined above and at least one oxidizing agent.
Another subject of the invention includes multi-compartment dyeing devices or dyeing kits containing at least two compartments, one of which contains a composition (A) comprising, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye precursor and optionally one or more couplers, and another compartment contains an oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, at least one of the compositions (A) and (B) also comprising an effective amount of at least one cationic amphiphilic polymer as defined above.
The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The aryl ra

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