Nubuck-like woven fabric and method of producing same

Stock material or miscellaneous articles – Structurally defined web or sheet – Discontinuous or differential coating – impregnation or bond

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26 185, 28168, 28169, 139420A, 428 91, 428207, 442 60, 442199, 442200, 442201, 57224, 57244, 57245, D03D 1500, D06C 1100, D06C 2700, D02G 304

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active

057533512

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
TECHNICAL FIELD

This invention relates to a nubuck-like woven fabric and a method of producing the nubuck-like woven fabric. More particularly, it relates to a nubuck-like woven fabric which is uniform and is of a close and tight texture, and has soft feeling and soft surface touch, and a method of producing the nubuck-like woven fabric without use of a urethane resin.


BACKGROUND ART

As a method of producing a raised woven fabric of a suade type or a nubuck type, a method has been generally employed wherein a woven fabric or nonwoven fabric comprising ultra-fine filaments is impregnated with a urethane resin and then is subjected to a raising or buffing treatment so that the ultra-fine filaments appear on the surface of the fabric.
The urethane resin is used for imparting a close and tight texture to the fabric, but the use thereof invites a problem such that the feeling of the fabric becomes stiff, a dyed fabric thereof has a poor light fastness and, when ironed, the dye migrates and consequently contaminates other fabrics.
To cope with the above problem, a method for producing a suede-like fabric without use of a urethane resin has been proposed. Namely, in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (JP-A) 5-44137, a method is described wherein a fabric made of a composite filament yarn composed of (i) a polyester/polyamide composite filament capable of forming ultra-fine filaments when the composite filament is divided into the respective filaments, and (ii) a polyester multifilament having a boiling water shrinkage of at least 25%, is subjected to a shrinking treatment under conditions such that the surface of the fabric shrinks by 30% or more, and then, the polyester/polyamide composite filament is partly dissolved out to form ultra-fine filaments. In Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (JP-A) 7-126951, a commingled multifilament yarn composed of (i) dividable composite multifilament yarn capable of forming ultra-fine filaments and (ii) a highly shrinkable multifilament yarn having a large denier, is woven or knitted into a fabric, and then the fabric is subjected to a heat-treatment and a dividing treatment to form a fabric having a soft surface touch and a tight texture.
By the above-mentioned methods, a natural suede-like feeling can be imparted to the fabric without use of a urethane resin. However, shrinkage of the fabric occurs before the composite filament is partly dissolved out in the method of JP-A 5-44137 and approximately simultaneously with partial dissolution of the composite filament in the method of JP-A 7-126951, and therefore, the filaments located in the core in the composite yarn constituting the fabric are adhered to each other by the thermal shrinkage. This adhesion of the filaments is an obstacle to penetration of a solvent for dissolution into the fabric and circulation of the solvent, and a considerable amount of undivided composite filaments remain in the fabric. Consequently, the fabric does not have a close and tight texture (i.e., the filaments are fastened together only to an insufficient extent), the surface touch becomes stiff, and, when dyed, uneven dyeing occurs.
In JP-A 2-145857, a process for producing a high density woven or knitted fabric is described wherein a woven or knitted fabric made of a polyester/polyamide composite filament is subjected to a dissolution treatment for dissolving and removing 5 to 50% by weight of the polyester without shrinkage of the fabric, whereby interstices are formed among the polyesters and the polyamides, and then the fabric is subjected to a crease-flexing treatment while the fabric is thermally shrunk at a temperature of at least 80.degree. C. whereby the polyester/polyamide composite filament is divided into ultra-fine polyester filaments and polyamide filaments by the difference in thermal shrinkage.
However, in the above-mentioned process, only a limited part of the filaments constituting the composite filaments are dissolved for the formation of the two kinds of ultra-fine filaments, and thus, interstices formed among the

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patent: 4318949 (1982-03-01), Okamoto et al.
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patent: 4496619 (1985-01-01), Okamoto
patent: 5047189 (1991-09-01), Lin
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