Novel cosmetic compositions containing an extract of the aerial

Details Novel cosmetic compositions containing an extract of the aerial Novel cosmetic compositions containing an extract of the aerial

1989-09-27

1991-02-12

Cashion, Jr., Merrell C.

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live skin colorant containing

4241951, 514783, A61K 748, A61K 3578

Patent

active

049922645

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which prevents
ageing of the skin. The present invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic composition containing an extract of the aerial parts of Cichorium intybus L. as active ingredient.
The extract of Cichorium intybus L. (compounds) contains various polyphenolic derivatives such as caffeyltartaric acid.
The extrace of Cichorium intybus L. can be prepared by extraction of the dried aerial parts with the aid of polar solvents such as boiling water, methanol, ethanol and propylene glycol.
The leaves of this plant are known for their choleretic, diuretic and mildlylaxastive properties which are the reason for infusions of it being used as a depurant in folk medicine.
The applicants have in fact discovered that an extract of the aerial parts of Cichorium intybus L. has an anti-radical activity, in particular as a result of complexing rion, and that cosmetic compositions containing such an extract can prevent the harmful effects of the free radicals which are, in part, responsible for cutaneous ageing.
The free radicals are produced during the course of the reactions of cell metabolism, in particular as a result of the one-electron reduction of oxygen during the reactions of mitochondrial respiration.
They are also produced in the skin by photochemical reactions during exposure to the sun. There exists a powerful system of protection against such radicals in an intact cell. The superoxide anion (O.sub.2.-) is converted by the superoxide dismutases to hydrogen peroxide (H.sub.2 O.sub.2) which is, in turn, metabolized to water (H.sub.2 O)by catalase. The superoxide dismulase.+-.catalase couple is a detoxification system whose efficacy decreases during ageing. Under these conditions, O.sub.2.- and H.sub.2 O.sub.2 react to generate a cascade of reactions, catalyzed by iron and known as the HABER-WEISS reaction, and which lead in particular to the formation of the hydroxyl (OH.sup..multidot.) radical. This radical exhibits a very high reactivity and interacts with biological structures, in particular the membrane phospholipids, proteins and nucleic acids, to which it causes damage.
It is known that neither the superoxide anion nor hydrogen peroxide can induce the peroxidation of lipids or a sugar such as deoxyribose directly.
In fact, this reaction requires the formation of more reactive radicals such as the hydroxyl radical OH.sup..multidot., which is catalyzed by iron.
When such radicals attack the fatty acids of the membrane phospholipids, a disorganization spreads through the cell membranes, inhibiting their functions and, especially in regard to the epidermis, their role as barrier which ensures adequate cutaneous hydration. Similarly, when these radicals interact with the proteins of the skin such as elastic and collagen, they bring about rupture and cross-linking characteristic of cutaneous ageing.
As a consequence of the presence of the extract of the aerial parts of Cichorium intybus L. which inhibits these free radicals, notably by chelating iron, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is able to prevent ageing of the skin.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention advantageously contains the extract of the aerial parts of Cichorium intybus L. at a concentration expressed in polyphenol content of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
Another subject of the present invention is a process for the prevention of ageing of the skin, wherein at least one extract of the aerial parted of Cichorium intybus L. is applied to the skin in a suitable cosmetic base.
The extract may be prepared in the following manner.


EXAMPLE OF THE PREPARATION OF THE EXTRACT

The aerial parts of Cichorium intybus L. are dried and chopped up without actually being ground to a power). They are extracted with 5 times their weight of boiling water (maceration for 30 minutes). The extract is filtered, then the residue is extracted with propylene glycol (5times the initial weight of plant). The propylene glycol extract is filtered, the residu

REFERENCES:
Hagers Handbuch der Pharmazeutischen Praxis, vol. 4, edition 4, 1973, pp. 4-5, Springer-Verlag, Berlin, DE; p. 4, "Cichorium intybus" - p. 5.
G. Garnier et al.: "Ressources Medicinales de la Flore Francaise", Tome II, 1961, pp. 1448-1451, Vigot Freres Editeures, Paris, FR; p. 1450, Pharmacologie.

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