Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Permanent waving or straightening
Patent
1993-08-17
1996-07-30
Gardner, Sallie M.
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Permanent waving or straightening
424 705, 514974, A61K 706, A61K 709
Patent
active
055409105
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a new process for the permanent deformation of hair using cysteamine as the principal reducing agent, this process comprising a particular treatment to combat against a residual disagreeable odor impregnating the hair.
A known technique for effecting the permanent deformation of hair consists in carrying out, in a first stage, the opening of the disulfide bonds of keratin using a composition containing a reducing agent (reduction stage), then, after having preferably rinsed the hair, reconstituting in a second stage the said disulfide bonds by applying, on the hair under tension, an oxidizing composition (oxidation stage, also called fixation stage) so as to impart to the hair the desired definitive form. The application of the reducing composition can be carried out before or after rolling the hair on curlers.
This technique of the permanent deformation of hair permits indifferently to effect either a waving of the hair or a straightening or uncurling of the hair.
The compositions to effect the first stage of a permanent operation are generally provided in the form of lotions, creams, gels or powders to be diluted in a liquid support, and preferably contain a thiol as the reducing agent.
Among the thiols envisioned to effect the first stage of a permanent operation, cysteamine or 2-amino ethanethiol is considered particularly favorable to obtain good waving of the hair but it has been noted that the hair thus treated however develops a very disagreeable odor after a week to a month.
This unpleasant odor is more particularly perceptible when the treated hair is in the wet state or in a moist environment. Thus, the appearance of unpleasant odors is quite particularly noticeable in hot and humid climates or is even noticeable if the subject has a tendency to secrete large amounts of sebum.
From the fact of this disadvantage, cysteamine as well as its salts, even in weak amounts, is not generally employed as the reducing agent in a process for the permanent deformation of hair.
After various studies, it has now been noted, in a surprising and unexpected manner, that it is possible to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors, due to the use of cysteamine or one of its salts by proceeding, before or after the fixation stage, to apply a composition containing a mono-aldehydic compound in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
The present invention thus relates to a process for the permanent deformation of hair comprising a reduction stage using a reducing composition containing cysteamine or one of its salts and an oxidation stage, this process being characterized by the fact that before or after the oxidation stage, a composition containing a mono-aldehydic compound in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle is applied to the hair so as to combat the residual disagreeable odor impregnating the hair.
There is employed as the mono-aldehydic compound in accordance with the invention, formaldehyde or an aromatic aldehyde selected from 2,4, 6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, .alpha.-methyl-.beta.-(p.tert.butyl phenyl) propionaldehyde, 2-methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2(1) cyclohexene-1-yl)butanal, 2-hexyl-3-phenyl-2-propenal, 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde and 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde.
Preferably, the mono-aldehydic compound is used at a molar concentration between 0.15 and 1.8 moles and more preferably between 0.22 and 0.8 mole.
The cosmetically acceptable vehicle is an aqueous solution or an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution of a lower aliphatic alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment, according to the invention, the hair is rinsed with water prior to the application of the composition containing the mono-aldehydic compound.
The composition containing the mono-aldehydic compound can, however, contain various cosmetic ingredients such as, for example, an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or cationic surfactant, an alkalinizing or acidifying agent, a preservative, a stabilizer, a treating agen
REFERENCES:
patent: 4547365 (1985-10-01), Kubo
patent: 4548811 (1985-10-01), Kubo
patent: 4560554 (1985-12-01), Kubo
patent: 5208014 (1993-05-01), Dubief
Teruo Tanimura, "Intermediate Rinse for Cold Permament Wave Setting", Patent Abstracts of Japan, vol. 8, No. 52 (C-213)(1489) 1984, JP A 58 210 006.
Hollenberg et al, "Moderne Sylingmittel-Funktion und Eigenschaften von Wellmitteln", Seifen, Ole, Fette, Wachse; vol. 117, No. 2, Feb. 1991, pp. 81-87.
Tanimura et al, "Cold wave hair treatment", Database WPIL, Section Ch, Week 8244, Derwent Publications Ltd., Class D, AN 82-93495E, JP A 57 154 116, Sep. 1982.
Dubief Claude
Samain Henri
"L'Oreal"
Gardner Sallie M.
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