Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Reexamination Certificate
2000-11-20
2002-04-02
Hartley, Michael G. (Department: 1617)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
C424S070280, C424S065000, C424S078170, C127S032000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06365140
ABSTRACT:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to novel aqueous solutions of modified starches, modified starch compositions and methods for using such modified starches and modified starch compositions in personal care applications. In general terms, the modified starches and modified starch compositions of the present invention are believed to be useful in the treatment of keratin-containing substrates. Keratin substrates include, but are not limited to, animal and human hair, skin and nails.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The surface properties of keratin are of interest in cosmetic science, and there has been a long-standing desire to discover ingredients which will beneficially affect the topical and bulk condition of keratinous substrates, such as hair. For example, such ingredients must have adequate adherent properties, so that they are not only adsorbed initially, but are also retained on exposure to water. This property is referred to as “substantivity”, i.e., the ability of a material to be adsorbed onto keratin and to resist removal by water rinse-off.
Hair is composed of keratin, a sulfur-containing fibrous protein. The isoelectric point of keratin, and more specifically of hair, is generally in the pH range of 3.2-4.0. Therefore, at the pH of a typical shampoo, about pH 5.4 to about pH 6.9, hair carries a net negative charge. Consequently, cationic polymers have long been used as conditioners in shampoo formulations, or as a separate treatment, in order to improve the wet and dry combability of the hair. The substantivity of the cationic polymers for negatively charged hair along with film formation provides for easier detangling during wet hair combing less static flyaway during dry hair combing. Cationic polymers generally also impart softness and suppleness to hair.
When cationic polymers are added to shampoos (or to skin care products such as cleaning compositions) containing anionic surfactants, formation of highly surface active association complexes generally takes place, which imparts improved foam stability to the shampoo. Maximum surface activity and foam stability, or lather, are achieved at near stoichiometric ratios of anionic surfactant: cationic polymer, where the complex is least water soluble. Generally, cationic conditioners exhibit some incompatibility at these ratios. Compatibility gives a commercially more desirable clear formulation, while incompatibility leads to a haze or precipitation, which is aesthetically less desirable in some formulations.
Hair fixative properties such as curl retention are believed to be directly related to film forming properties of cationic polymers, as well as to molecular weight, with performance generally increasing with increasing molecular weights However, the fixative properties conferred by cationic polymers generally tend to have a reciprocal relationship to other conditioning properties, i.e., good curl retention usually means that properties such as wet combability will suffer, and vice versa.
Aside from hair care uses, skin and nail conditioning products are desired which function to improve properties such as retention of moisture, softening of the skin, attraction of air moisture, retardation of water loss, feel and reduction of skin irritations caused by contact with cosmetic ingredients. Examples of such products include detergents, lotions and soaps.
Generally, two broad areas of skin care products have been recognized as skin conditioners: emollients and humectants. Emollients generally provide improved moisture retention in the skin and plasticization/softening of the skin. Common commercial emollients are mineral oil; petrolatum; aliphatic alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol; lanolin and its derivatives; glycol stearate; and fatty acids, such as triethanolamine oleate. Humectants generally attract moisture, retard evaporation of water from the skin surface, and plasticize/soften skin. Common commercial humectants include glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitols, and polyethylene glycols.
A desirable skin conditioner should impart at least some of the attributes of an emollient or a humectant, as well as provide improved lubricity and feel to the skin after treatment and/or reduce skin irritation caused by other components in the conditioner such as, for example, soaps, detergents, foam boosters, surfactants, and perfumes. It is known by those skilled in the art that cationic polymers can be employed as skin and nail conditioners.
The skin and nail conditioning properties of lubricity, moisturizing and feel, are related to the film forming properties of the cationic polymers, as well as to molecular weight, with performance generally increasing with increasing molecular weight.
Synthetic cationic polymers have been used in cosmetic formulations for many years to achieve the properties described above. While these materials have many advantages as far as ease of handling and the ability to easily modify polymer compositions to achieve desired performance objectives, once they are used in a formulation by the consumer, they remain in the environment and do not readily decompose with time.
As concerns about environmental pollution and concentration of synthetic materials in public waterways have increased, it has become increasingly desirable to use materials that are derived from renewable resources and are inherently biodegradable after the personal care product is consumed.
Cationic derivatives of cellulose, guar and various proteins have been developed as naturally derived cationic polymers to be used as described above. These materials are supplied as dry powders and have demonstrated the ability to provide conditioning benefits to keratin based substrates. Handling these materials is generally difficult, however, as they must be dissolved into water as part of the formulating process. Problems arise if the dry material is added to quickly, the pH is wrong or insufficient mixing is used which results in “fish eyes” (insoluble particles), lumping or degradation of the polymer. These conditions can lead to a product with inadequate conditioning properties and non reproducibly performing final product formulations.
Keratin conditioning additives generally are of three primary types: cationic polymers, proteins or protein derivatives, and fatty quaternary ammonium compounds. Commonly used cationic polymers include: quaternary nitrogen-containing hydroxyethyl cellulose compounds, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylamino-ethylmethacrylate, and amino functional polydimethyl-siloxane. Hydrolyzed animal protein has been frequently used as a keratin conditioner. Also used are natural products such as collagen and casein. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds include such products as distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
Conditioning additives comprising copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and other monomers are well known; see, e.g., EP 308189 (with acrylamide) and EP 0 308 190 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,803,071 (with hydroxyethyl cellulose). The use of such polymers in cosmetics is also described in Sykes et al.,
Drug Cosmet. Ind
., 126(2), 62, 64, 66, 68, 136 (1980).
Hair care compositions comprising cationic cellulose are well known. For example hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride ethers of cellulose have been used in conditioning compositions; see, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 5,288,484 as well as shampoo compositions; see, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 4,205,063. U.S. Pat. No. 4,803,071 discloses the use in hair care compositions of cationic cellulose made from grafting dimethyldiallylammonium chloride onto the cellulose backbone.
Hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride ethers of guar are catatonically modified guar gums that have also been used extensively in hair care compositions. U.S. Pat. No. 4,292,212 describes the use of this material in a shampoo crème rinse while U.S. Pat. No. 4,676,978 describes the use of this material in a shampoo.
Nonionic cellulosic materials have also found use in hair care formulations. Examples include shampoo compositions which comprise a nonionic cellulose ether
Gaffney Tammy W.
Gunther Manfred
Matz Gary F.
Melby Allan L.
Breininger Thomas M.
Brumm Margaret M.
Calgon Corporation
Hartley Michael G.
Willis Michael A.
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