Chemistry: natural resins or derivatives; peptides or proteins; – Proteins – i.e. – more than 100 amino acid residues – Plant proteins – e.g. – derived from legumes – algae or...
Patent
1994-04-22
1995-11-14
Russel, Jeffrey E.
Chemistry: natural resins or derivatives; peptides or proteins;
Proteins, i.e., more than 100 amino acid residues
Plant proteins, e.g., derived from legumes, algae or...
530375, 536 185, 536 553, 536128, 554 13, 554 14, 554 21, A61K 748, C07H 108, C07K 14415, C11B 110
Patent
active
054667828
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a method for separating a compound containing glycolipids, lysophospholipids, sphingolipids and ceramides of plant origin.
The hydration of the skin is one of the greatest problems facing specialists in cosmetology: it is well known that water is a vital component of the human organism; its concentration, which amounts to 60 to 70% in the dermis, drops to 12% in the stratum corneum, i.e. the upper layers of the epidermis.
In order for the skin to preserve its suppleness and elasticity and to prevent the premature formation of lines or small wrinkles, it is essential to maintain this water content, preventing any dehydration following cutaneous evaporation or sweating.
In order to overcome the consequences of the above-mentioned phenomena and to delay the ageing of the skin as much as possible, cosmetology specialists have developed various compositions for reestablishing the water content of the upper layers of the epidermis either by retarding their dehydration or by encouraging their rehydration.
The first of these compositions, proposed at the beginning of the Sixties, were creams based on Vaseline or beeswax which where not always very well accepted by consumers in view of their greasy and oily nature.
In order to overcome this disadvantage, compositions in the form of emulsions consisting of a mixture of water and oil and having the advantage of being far more pleasant to use were developed.
In addition to these compositions, which in principle act by providing the skin with the lipids which they tend to lack, more sophisticated hydrating products appeared which comprise, as active agents, moistening or hygroscopic components which, by affinity, can take up and retain the surrounding water so as to maintain a moist atmosphere about the cells and on the surface of the skin. Lanoline, soya lecithins, glycerol, mucopolysaccharides or even allantoin derivatives can be cited among these active components.
In addition to these wetting or hygroscopic agents, the hydrating compositions currently offered to consumers very often contain so-called "natural moisturising factors" which are normally present in the epidermis and of which a lack has been noted in subjects with dehydrated skin or skin which tends to be dry. These products, of which the activity has been noted in the skin hydration mechanisms, are, for example, amino acids (serine, lysine, tyrosine, etc.), urea, sodium, potassium, carboxylic pyrrolydonic acid, etc.
Even more recently, the role played in the skin hydration mechanisms by phospholipids, and in particular ceramides, which are also normally present in the corneous layer, has come to the fore. It has been possible to demonstrate that these products act like cement between the bricks of the cells and thus help to improve water retention and the skin's resistance to external aggression.
There are currently available on the cosmetic market hydrating compositions (in the form of creams, gels or solutions) which contain ceramides associated with texture agents enabling the intercellular tissue to be "concreted" and which have proved to be particularly efficient and have consequently been well received by consumers.
However, the ceramides present in these compositions have the disadvantage of being of animal origin and extracted from the brain or nerve tissue of animals.
This disadvantage might be such that it could slow down or even completely halt future development of hydrating products based on ceramides, given that, for ecological reasons, it is currently sought to protect animals as much as possible and to avoid using them as far as possible in the laboratory. Encouraged by the various animal-protection organisations, this current tendency is such that products of animal origin are increasingly unacceptable.
Independently of these concerns of a philosophical kind, the principal reason for which the development of products, in particular cosmetic products from the animal kingdom, might be delayed in future, is connected with the appearance in ruminants of new
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Laboratoires Inocosm
Russel Jeffrey E.
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