Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Hair coloring
Reexamination Certificate
1999-12-13
2002-04-23
Dudash, Diana (Department: 1619)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Hair coloring
C424S070100, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070150, C424S070160
Reexamination Certificate
active
06375941
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to a product for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, in particular, human eyelashes and hair, comprising a polyurethane. The invention also relates to a process for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers. The make-up product and process, according to the invention are more particularly intended for essentially longilinear keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair, including false eyelashes and wigs. The product of the invention can be a make-up product, a make-up base, a composition to be applied on or over make-up, named a topcoat, or a cosmetic treatment product for keratin fibers. The invention relates more particularly to a mascara.
Mascaras are commonly prepared as wax-based formulations according to two types: aqueous mascaras, known as cream mascaras, in the form of an emulsion of waxes in water; and anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in solvents.
However, the film of make-up obtained with the inventive composition applied to eyelashes has a tendency to crumble over time; grains become deposited and leave marks around the eyes. Furthermore, the film thus embrittled is not resistant to rubbing, in particular, by the fingers, and/or to water, for example, when bathing or taking a shower. The make-up is thus not resistant and has poor staying power over time.
It is known to use, with the waxes, film-forming polymers which can be dissolved or dispersed in an aqueous medium, as described, in particular, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-2,528,699 and European Patent Application No. EP-A-655,234. However, the presence of waxes leads to poor staying power of the make-up over time, especially with respect to water and rubbing.
An object of the present invention,is thus to provide a mascara composition leading to a make-up effect that has good staying power over time.
The inventors have obtained such a mascara with a composition free of wax and comprising a film-forming polyurethane. The composition, which is easy to apply, coats the eyelashes well. The make-up effect is natural, comfortable and has good staying power over time; the film does not crumble after a day and is easy to remove with water, in particular, warm water.
More specifically, a subject of the invention is a system or product for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, comprising a reservoir containing a composition for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, especially the eyelashes, an applicator member and a removable closure means designed to close the reservoir, wherein the coating composition comprises an aqueous medium and a film-forming polyurethane in the form of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous medium, the composition having a viscosity, measured at 25° C., at a shear rate of 200 s
−1
, ranging from 5 Pa·s (50 poises) to 18 Pa·s (180 poises), the composition furthermore being free of wax.
Another subject of the invention is a process for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, especially the eyelashes, wherein a coating composition, in particular, a make-up composition of the system defined above is applied along the length of the keratin fibers.
Another subject of the invention is the use of a coating composition, in particular, a make-up composition, as defined above, to obtain a coating, in particular, a make-up effect which has good staying power and/or which can be removed with water.
Additional features and advantages of the invention are set forth in the description that follows, and, in part, will be apparent from the description or may be learned from practice of the invention. The advantages of the invention will be realized and attained by the compositions, systems, and processes particularly pointed out in the written description and claims.
Both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description of the invention are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the claimed invention.
In the present patent application, the expression “wax-free composition” means a composition that does not contain any compound solid at room temperature (25° C.), and that has a melting point ranging from 45° C. to 110° C.
The polyurethane used according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from polyester-polyurethanes, acrylic-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, and siliconed-polyurethanes. The polyurethane can preferably be an anionic polyurethane.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyurethane can have a water uptake of less than or equal to 30%, and, in particular, ranging from 0.5% to 15%. The polyester-polyurethanes according to the invention have such water uptake properties. Such polyurethanes make it possible to obtain a make-up product having good staying power over time, in particular, for more than one day, or even two to three days, and good water-resistance. Advantageously, polyurethanes, and, in particular, polyester-polyurethanes, capable of forming a film having a hardness ranging from 40 to 200 seconds, and, better still, from 50 to 170 seconds, can be used.
According to the present application, the expression “water uptake of the polyurethane” means the percentage of water absorbed by the polyurethane after immersion in water at 30° C. for 10 minutes. The water uptake is measured for a layer 300 &mgr;m thick (before drying) deposited on a plate and then dried for 24 hours at 30° C. and at 50% relative humidity; pieces of about 1 cm
2
cut from the dry film are weighed (mass measurement M
1
) and then immersed in water for 10 minutes. After immersion, the piece of film is dried to remove the excess surface water and then weighed (mass measurement M
2
). The difference M
2
−M
1
corresponds to the amount of water absorbed by the polymer. The water uptake is equal to (M
2
−M
1
)/M
1
)×100, and is expressed as a percentage by weight of water relative to the weight of polymer.
The hardness of the polymer film is measured on a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30° C. and at 50% relative humidity, of a layer 300 &mgr;m thick (before drying) of an aqueous dispersion containing 28% solids of the particles of radical-generated polymer. The hardness of the film is measured according to ASTM standard D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
According to a second embodiment of the invention, the polyurethane can have a water uptake of greater than 30%, preferably from 30% to 150% and, better still, from 40% to 100%. The polyether-polyurethanes according to the invention have such water uptake properties. Such polyurethanes make it possible to obtain a make-up product which adheres well to the eyelashes, having good staying power over time and being easy to remove with water, in particular warm water at 35-45° C. Advantageously, polyurethanes and, in particular, polyether-polyurethanes, capable of forming a film having a hardness ranging from 10 to 40 seconds, and, better still, from 20 to 35 seconds, can be used.
The polyurethane particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of the composition generally have a size preferably ranging from 10 nm to 200 nm.
Polyester-polyurethanes that can be used are those sold under the names “Avalure UR-425”, “Avalure UR-430”, “Avalure UR-405” and “Avalure UR-410” by the company Goodrich, and “NEOREZ R-989” by the company Zeneca.
Polyether-polyurethanes that can be used are those sold under the names “Sancure 878”, “Avalure UR-450” and “Sancure 861” by the company Goodrich.
The term “acrylic-polyurethanes” means polyurethanes comprising at least one acrylic polymeric chain, or polyurethane/acrylic hybride polymers. Acrylic polyurethanes that can be used are those sold under the names “UCECOAT DW 5560, ” “UCECOAT DW 5561, ” “UCECOAT DW 5160, ” “UCECOAT DW 5460, ” and “UCECOAT DW 5660” by the company UCB, “FLEXTHANE 610, ” “FLEXTHANE 620, ” and “FLEXTHANE 630” by the company Air Products, and “SANCURE AU-4000” and
Auguste Frederic
Bodelin Sophie
de la Poterie Valerie
Piot Bertrand
Dudash Diana
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal
Yu Gina
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