Mascara containing film-forming polymers

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Hair coloring

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S070600, C424S070100, C424S070500, C424S070700, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070150, C424S070160, C424S070170

Reexamination Certificate

active

06482400

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to a composition for coating keratin fibers comprising a mixture of film-forming polymers. The invention also relates to the use of this composition for making up keratin fibers, as well as to a process for making up these fibers. The composition and the make-up process according to the invention are suitable for substantially longilinear human keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair, including false eyelashes and hairpieces. The composition can be a make-up composition, a make-up base, a composition to be applied to a make-up, also known as a top-coat, or, alternatively, a composition for cosmetically treating keratin fibers. According to one embodiment, the invention relates to a mascara.
Compositions for coating the eyelashes, known as mascaras, generally comprise at least one wax and at least one film-forming polymer. A mascara is typically used to deposit a make-up film on the eyelashes and coat them. Published PCT Application No. WO-A-95/15741, for example, describes such compositions. Users expect these products to have good cosmetic properties, such as adhesion to the eyelashes, lengthening or curling of the eyelashes, or, alternatively, good staying power of the mascara over time, in particular good resistance to rubbing, for example with the fingers or fabrics (handkerchiefs, towels).
To give the eyelashes a lengthening effect, French Patent Application No. FR-A-2 528 699 proposes a mascara comprising waxes and a combination of anionic polymer and cationic polymer. However, these compositions may not allow optimum curling of the eyelashes. One aspect of the present invention is to provide a composition for making up keratin fibers, including fibers such as the eyelashes, which may apply easily and may provide for good curling of the keratin fibers.
The inventor has discovered that such a composition can be obtained using a specific combination of film-forming polymers.
More specifically, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least one anionic polymer, which is advantageously non-crosslinked, and an aqueous dispersion of at least one film-forming polyurethane, the said anionic polymer and the said cationic polymer being different from the said polyurethane in aqueous dispersion, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax.
The composition according to the invention may apply easily and may attach well to keratin fibers such as the eyelashes. It has been found that the make-up results such as the coating, lengthening, and curling of the eyelashes may be obtained quickly and easily after applying the composition to the eyelashes. The make-up may be comfortable for the user to wear, and it may be easily removed with conventional make-up-removing agents.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a process for coating keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes, comprising applying a composition as defined above to the keratin fibers.
An additional embodiment of the invention is the use of a composition as defined above to curl and/or lengthen and/or coat the eyelashes and/or to obtain a quick make-up and/or a make-up which is easy to apply and/or which has good staying power.
The expression “film-forming polymer” means a polymer which by itself, or in the presence of a plasticizer, leads to an isolable film.
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of at least one film-forming polyurethane polymer. The polyurethane used according to the invention can be chosen from, i.e., polyester-polyurethanes and polyether-polyurethanes. The polyurethane can be an anionic polyurethane; in this case, the anionic polymer according to the invention is different from the anionic polyurethane in aqueous dispersion. In addition, the polyurethane can be chosen from polyurethanes capable of forming a film which has a hardness ranging from 10 seconds to 200 seconds.
According to one aspect of the invention, polyester-polyurethanes capable of forming a film having a hardness ranging from 40 seconds to 200 seconds, and better still from 50 seconds to 180 seconds, can be used. Polyether-polyurethanes capable of forming a film having a hardness ranging from 10 seconds to 50 seconds can be used. According to an additional embodiment of the invention, polyether-polyurethanes capable of forming a film having a hardness ranging from 20 seconds to 45 seconds can be used.
The hardness of the polymer film is measured on a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30° C. and at 50% relative humidity, of a 300 &mgr;m thick (before drying) coat of an aqueous dispersion containing 28% solids of the said particles of radical-mediated polymer. The hardness of the film is measured according to ASTM standard D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
The polyurethane particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of the composition generally have a size which can range from 10 nm to 300 nm. In an additional embodiment, the size can range from 20 nm to 200 nm.
Polyester-polyurethanes which can be used include those sold under the names “AVALURE UR-425”, “AVALURE UR-430”, “AVALURE UR-405,” and “AVALURE UR-410” by Goodrich.
Polyether-polyurethanes which can be used include those sold under the names “SANCURE 878”, “AVALURE UR-450” and “SANCURE 861” by Goodrich.
The expression “aqueous dispersion of polymer” means a phase containing water and optionally a water-soluble compound in which the polymer is directly dispersed in the form of particles.
In practice, the polyurethane can be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a certain embodiment, the amount can range from 0.5% to 45% by weight. In an additional embodiment, the amount can range from 0.5% to 35% by weight, and in yet another embodiment the amount can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight.
According to the invention, the composition according to the invention can contain any known anionic polymer, suitably non-crosslinked, or cationic polymer. These polymers can be used in dissolved form or in the form of aqueous dispersions of solid polymer particles.
The anionic polymers generally used can be polymers comprising groups derived from at least one monomer chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, and phosphoric acid, and can have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from about 500 to about 5,000,000.
1) The carboxylic groups can be borne by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to formula (I):
wherein n is an integer from 0 to 10,
A can be a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a hetero atom such as oxygen or sulphur;
R
5
is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, and a benzyl group;
R
3
is chosen from a hydrogen atom, lower alkyl groups, and carboxyl groups; and
R
4
is chosen from a hydrogen atom, lower alkyl groups,
CH
2
—COOH, phenyl groups, and benzyl groups.
In the abovementioned formula and throughout the disclosure, the expressions “lower alkyl” and “lower alkyl radical” can denote a group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as, for example, methyl and ethyl.
The anionic polymers containing carboxylic groups which are useful according to the invention include:
A) Homo- and copolymers derived from at least one monomer chosen from acrylic and methacrylic acid and the salts of the homo- and copolymers (such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, and ammonium salts), including the products sold under the names VERSICOL E or VERSICOL K by Allied Colloid, ULTRAHOLD by BASF, and DARVAN 7 by Vanderbilt. The copolymers derived from acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN 421, RETEN 423, or RETEN 425 by Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
B) Copolymers derived fr

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