Fabric (woven – knitted – or nonwoven textile or cloth – etc.) – Woven fabric – Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or...
Reexamination Certificate
2000-06-15
2003-08-19
Cole, Elizabeth M. (Department: 1771)
Fabric (woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.)
Woven fabric
Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or...
C442S203000, C442S208000, C442S213000, C442S214000, C442S301000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06607995
ABSTRACT:
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a lining cloth having a reduced seam slippage and giving a wearer a less constrained feeling and, specifically, to a slippery lining cloth stretchable in the filling-wise (weft-wise) direction, is soft in touch and excellent in surface smoothness, and which is woven from 100% polyester filamentary yarns or mixture of cellulosic filamentary yarns and polyester filamentary yarns or 100% cellulosic filamentary yarns.
BACKGROUND ART
Nowadays, fibrous materials used for a woven lining cloth are roughly classified into a polyester filament type and a cellulosic filament type. The lining cloth composed of 100% polyester filamentary yarns occupies a share of nearly to 80% in a Japanese market for lining cloth because of the reasonable cost, high mechanical strength such as a tensile strength, bending strength or resistance to wear, excellent laundry dimensional stability and a smaller change in the appearance thereof in comparison with that composed of 100% cellulosic filament yarn. The lining cloth composed of 100% cellulosic filament yarns is excellent in moisture absorption, sweat absorption, antistatic property and slipperiness which are not obtainable from the polyester filament type lining cloth, and has a good reputation particularly in a field of high-class female dress.
On the other hand, for the purpose of combining merits of the polyester filament and those of the cellulosic filament with each other, a lining cloth mixedly woven from these filamentary yarns has been marketed.
Recently, outer cloths used for, dresses have become soft and pliable reflecting a fashion trend to regard wearing comfort of clothes and the silhouette as important. Also, a soft and pliable lining cloth is in demand and has been marketed this cloth enhances the wearing comfort and does not affect the silhouette of the outer cloth.
As means for obtaining such a soft and pliable lining cloth, reducing the warp/filling density of a woven fabric, using a smaller denier filament yarns, improving dyeing or finishing process or other methods have been adopted. Particularly in a lining cloth composed of 100% polyester filament yarns, however, a concentrated sodium hydroxide solution is used in most of the dyeing and finishing process for the purpose of weight reduction to give a soft touch. Among the lining cloths obtained through the weight reduction treatment, highly weight-reduced products of a reduction ratio in a range from about 10 to 20% are extremely soft and bulky in touch, and have been favorably used as a high-class lining cloth.
Softening of touch due to the weight reduction treatment is a method for thinning polyester filaments through hydrolization with an alkali solution. Therefore, a gap is created between warp yarns and filling yarns forming the woven fabric as well as between multi-filaments composing the respective warp yarn and the respective filling yarn of the woven fabric. The improvement in softness and bulkiness in touch of the woven fabric is necessarily accompanied with the reduction in tensile rigidity, bending rigidity or shearing rigidity of the woven fabric. Although such a highly weight-reduced lining cloth is soft in touch, it has a drawback in that warp yarns and filling yarns composing the cloth is easily mobile when a large tensile or shearing force is applied thereto, for example, during the wear thereof. This causes a practical problem in that seam slippage is liable to occur when this cloth is worn as a dress. In this respect, “seam slippage” is referred to as a phenomenon in that warp yarns or filling yarns slip out of place about the seam when a stress is applied to the seam of the woven fabric and causing bursting of seam in an extreme case.
A typical example of dresses wherein the seam slippage is actually liable to occur is a tight skirt for a female. In the tight skirt, a “kise (phonetic)” (fullness work) hardly exists in a sewn lining cloth for a tight skirt for the purpose of obtaining a good touch whereby there is little room in the lining cloth for a body dimension. Also, since the tight skirt is subjected to a relatively large motion during walking or sitting, the seam tends to stretch and slip off. A countermeasure against the seam slippage is an increase in density of warp/filling yarns and an increase in the coefficient of interfiber friction by the use of an anti-slip agent. However, the increase in density of warp/filling yarns deteriorates the softness of touch, and the effect of the anti-slip agent is not permanent but temporary, which disappears when the cloth is rinsed.
The present inventors have carried out various analysis of hundreds of outer cloths and typical lining cloths now on market for the purpose of providing lining cloths soft in touch and excellent in anti-seam slippage performance to discover why the conventional lining cloth used for a skirt is liable to generate seam-slippage, and have obtained the following knowledge:
According to the measurement of a filling-wise elongation of a woven fabric composing the outer cloth and the lining cloth, respectively, at a tensile stress of 500 g/cm, it has been found that most of the outer cloths have an elongation of approximately 10%, while that of the lining cloths is at most approximately 3%. From this, it is apparent that if a dress wherein the outer cloth is lined with the lining cloth is stretched to some extent, a stress generated in the outer cloth is small, but a stress in the lining cloth is much larger. In this regard, the weakest region, against a stress generated in the lining cloth, is a seam, whereby it is suggested that the seam slippage would occur when the cloth is stretched.
For example, since the lining cloth in a hip portion of the skirt is sewn in the warp-wise direction of the outer cloth, the slippage of a warp-wise seam occurs due to a filling-wise stress. Particularly, since yarns are easily mobile in the weave structure in a lining cloth which has been subjected to a weight reduction treatment with alkaline for the purpose of softening a touch thereof, the seam slippage would be significant.
Accordingly, it is deemed that if the lining cloth has a filling-wise elongation equal to that of the outer cloth, the seam slippage and deterioration of the silhouette of the outer cloth do not occur.
The design of a filling-wise elongation of the conventional lining cloth is deemed erroneous because there is a mis-match in a stress between the lining cloth and the outer cloth, which would be apparent from a fact in that, when the wearer of a short tight skirt sits down on a chair or a seat of a train, the skirt is abnormally dragged up.
Examples of a woven fabric composed of 100% polyester yarns are disclosed, for instance, in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. 53-130363 and Japanese Examined Patent Publication (Kokoku) Nos. 58-115144 and 1-21261, wherein false-twisted yarns are used as filling yarns so that a filling-wise elongation of 15% or more is obtained. A woven fabric disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. 53-130363 uses false-twisted yarns produced under specially defined conditions so that a rough surface texture is mitigated while achieving a high elongation of 15% or more. However, this fabric has a surface irregularity due to the false-twisted filling yarns having a significant bending configuration which bulge out of the fabric surface rather than warp yarns, whereby the fabric has a rough touch and a large bulkiness while it lacks the slipperiness necessary for the lining cloth. Thus, this fabric is low in dressing convenience and in wearing comfort.
Japanese Examined Patent Publication (Kokoku) No. 1-21261 relates to a finishing method for a woven fabric for obtaining a filling-wise elongation of 15% or more. However, the resultant fabric is also unsuitable for a lining cloth because of its rough touch.
Japanese Examined Patent Publication (Kokoku) No. 58-115144 relates to a woven fabric having an elongation of 15% or more both in the warp-wise and filling-wise directions as
Igarashi Tsuneo
Mizuki Hiroyuki
Takeuchi Hisaharu
Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha
Cole Elizabeth M.
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
Torres Norca L.
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