Jewelry – Gem setting
Reexamination Certificate
2000-05-22
2002-07-02
Lavinder, Jack (Department: 3628)
Jewelry
Gem setting
C063S031000, C063S038000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06412304
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND
Currently, jewelry settings are available in many different types and styles. Among the different sets or settings available are prong sets, bead sets, bezel sets, channel sets, pave settings, and invisible sets. These can be used alone or in combination with each other. There are certain disadvantages to each that the present invention addresses.
Currently, prong setting involves securing a stone between two to six wires (prongs), that extend up from a base that is usually the shape of the stone, oriented on the same axis as the girdle plane of the stone. The prongs are notched to follow the same profile as the stone, so that when the prongs are closed onto the stone, the notched profile forms around the girdle of the stone. The notches are usually anywhere from ⅓ to ½ of the diameter of the prong. The strength of the prong depends on the type of metal, how the metal was heated, how the prong was formed, how the metal was attached to the design, and how much of a notch was cut. The disadvantages to this type of setting are numerous. First, the prongs are notched. The notches weaken the prong, and make it more likely to break. Second, the most common repair on a prong setting is re-tipping, whereby metal or solder is added to the top of a worn down prong. This process only works on heat resistant stones, such as diamonds, rubies, or sapphires that are of sufficient quality so as not to be susceptible to heat expansion stress. If re-tipping will not work, tendency to snag on clothing, and if one or two prongs break or pull away from the stone, the stone will fall out of the setting.
Another type of setting that is currently used is a bead setting. This involves setting a stone into a piece of metal just below the surface by drilling a hole into the metal with a specialized burr that will allow the stone to sit on a seat, so that the table of the stone can be positioned just below the surface. The stone is then secured to the metal by raising a small bead of metal with a steel graver or similar tool, immediately next to the stone until the bead contacts the stone, holding it in the seat. Pave setting uses the same process, except that the stones are set in a broader area, as opposed to traditional bead settings which usually follow a straight line or involve just a single stone. Both bead and pave settings often involve stones of 2.5 mm or less. This setting is very secure. However, the beads still do wear down and can sometimes snag clothing. Also, the stone is essentially buried into the metal, causing 50-60% of the stone to be hidden.
Another type of setting currently used is a bezel setting. A bezel setting is virtually the same as a prong setting, except that the entire perimeter of the stone is covered with a thin ribbon of metal. The bezel is usually a tapered or straight solid tube of an appropriate diameter so as to be able to have a seat burred into it, so that the stone will sit on it with enough left to be pushed, hammered, or otherwise lowered onto the stone to hold it in the bezel. Bezel settings have a smooth edge all around the stone that will not snag, and are very secure. However, this setting technique covers approximately ⅔ of the stone, and the metal will wear down over time.
Yet another type of setting currently used is a channel setting. Channel setting involves setting a stone in a channel between opposing channel walls. A small seat is cut in each channel wall so that the corresponding size stone will sit between the walls, suspended above the base of the channel. The walls are then hammered onto the edge of the stone until the stone is secure. This type of setting most often involves stones of 2.5 mm or less. When larger stones are channel set, they are most often set alone. These stones are at more risk than smaller stones because the channel must be larger, and will be more susceptible to expansion. As with other types of settings, the metal will wear down over time.
Still another type of setting currently used for stones is an invisible setting. An invisible setting is a technique used to set a number of stones together in rows or patterns, so that there is no perceptible means of support. The stones have a very small groove, just under the girdle, on the pavilion. The groove is small enough so as not to be visible from the top, but large enough to accept a thin piece of metal. The stones are grouped together into the particular pattern on top of a lattice form that will accommodate each stone. The metal is then pushed into the grooves of each stone from the back of the lattice, securing the stones to the lattice form. A variation of this technique requires the stones to be notched, much the same way as a tongue and groove arrangement. The perimeter stones are set with metal, while the interior stones of the design are set tongue in groove. This style of setting tends to use smaller stones, usually no larger than 3 mm. Pieces that are invisibly set are more fragile because there is not much metal used to hold the stones in place. In the case of tongue in groove set stones, when one stone falls out, or is broken, the rest of the stones in that grouping will come loose and fall out.
Currently, the shape or cut of the stone will determine, in part, how it is to be set. Most shapes can be set in prongs or bezels, while only rounds and squares can be channel set, only rounds can be bead or pave set, and only squares can be invisibly set. These setting methods are generally used for faceted stones.
Currently and typically, beads and pearls are set using different setting methods than those described above. They usually have a hole drilled into or through them, and are glued to a post, or threaded onto a string or wire. Some stones can also be set this way. For instance, a briolette is a stone that is usually drop shaped. It is usually tapered and conical, and is fully covered with triangular facets. These stones are currently set in one of three ways. The first way is similar to setting a bead or pearl. A small hole is cut partially into the small end of the stone. A metal post is then coated with an adhesive, and inserted into the briolette. The other end of the post can be fashioned into a loop to be suspended from a jewelry design, or attached to a base. Another setting method is to drill a hole through the stone, and pass a wire or cord through the hole, twisting the ends of the wire together and attaching the resulting loop of wire to a jewelry piece. A third method currently used to set these types of stones is to make a cap that covers one end of the briolette, and then attach the cap to a base using an adhesive. A disadvantage of all these types of settings is that adhesives tend to become brittle over time. This will affect the quality of the setting, and the stone could fall off. Another disadvantage is that briolettes that are set by the second method are not set within a mounting structure and do not receive the protection of a setting.
Generally then, current jewelry setting techniques tend to rely on trapping a stone in a metal finding or adhesively connecting a stone to a finding or mounting device. If the stone moves or is loose in the setting, or if the adhesive connection weakens, it is generally considered unsafe. These techniques either end up hiding a portion of the stone, creating a situation where a part of the setting wears out and needs repairs, or have parts that can easily snag on things and break.
What is needed is a jewelry setting method and apparatus, and a jewelry design, that addresses the problems unaddressed or created by current stone and/or jewelry setting techniques by allowing a stone to be almost fully displayed and eliminating the need for parts that can break or need repair, while remaining aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
SUMMARY
The present invention relates to jewelry and, more particularly, to a jewelry design and a method and apparatus for making jewelry, particularly for setting and displaying a gemstone or other decorative object.
In accordance with one embodiment of the in
Chop Andrea
Dorsey & Whitney LLP
Lavinder Jack
LandOfFree
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