High performance color-depositing shampoo

Details High performance color-depositing shampoo High performance color-depositing shampoo

2000-04-12

2002-12-31

Dees, Jose′ G. (Department: 1616)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live hair or scalp treating compositions

C424S401000, C424S063000, C424S070600

Reexamination Certificate

active

06500413

ABSTRACT:

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to cosmetic compositions. More specifically, the invention relates to foaming cosmetic compositions.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
One of the most important characteristics of a hair cleansing composition is its ability to foam. Consumers perceive a high-foaming shampoo as being more effective, i.e., the greater the foam level, the greater the cleansing properties of the shampoo. To this end, most shampoos contain one or more primary surfactants, which have the dual effect of cleansing the hair as well as building a rich lather when applied to the hair. To a large extent, a majority of the primary surfactants used are high foam producing anionic surfactants, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. Typically, these primary surfactants are combined with secondary surfactants, to build viscosity and enhance the foaming properties of the product. The usual secondary surfactants are either nonionic, such as lauraride DEA or amphoteric/zwitterionic, such as cocoamidopropyl betaine. Such systems are widely and very effectively used in a variety of hair-cleansing shampoos.
The aforementioned combination of primary and secondary surfactants does not prove useful, however, in hair care products containing a cationic component. Cationic components are highly favored in a variety of different types of skin care and hair care products: their cationic nature permits them to bind to the abundant anionic sites on both skin and hair, thereby giving them greater substantivity and staying power, and also other useful properties, such as antibacterial activity. Examples of widely used cationic cosmetic ingredients include cationic hair dyes, and quaternary ammonium compounds that are useful in hair styling and conditioning. However, this very property is the one which prevents them from being used in the typical surfactant system containing a strong anionic surfactant, in that cationic materials are not generally compatible with anionics. The combination of these two types of materials in a single product can result in the reduction of the foaming properties of the anionic surfactant, reduction of the amount of deposition of the cationic on the intended surface, or even the precipitation of the resulting anionic/cationic complex. Therefore, shampoos that must incorporate cationic components, such as coloring shampoos, have traditionally had to resort only to the use of amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, resulting in a product that produces very little foam, and a viscosity that is difficult to control without the use of additional gums or ethoxylated viscosifying agents. This problem does not arise when an anionic surfactant is combined with amphoteric and/or nonionic secondary surfactants, as viscosity can readily be built in such a system by the simple and inexpensive addition of sodium chloride. However, the added materials needed in the presence of cationics tend to inhibit foaming further, and to build a viscosity that is less aesthetically desirable than the viscosity that is built when adding sodium chloride to a traditional anionic surfactant system.
Several possible solutions have been proposed for permitting the combination of anionics with cationics, but most have their drawbacks. For example, the base can be made less anionic by the addition of high amounts of amphoteric or nonionic surfactants; however, this may result in unacceptable viscosity of the product. It has also been suggested to reduce the charge density on the cationic or anionic, usually by ethoxylation; however, any change in the structure of the original material runs the risk of altering the surfactant properties that made it desirable in the first place. Use of an excess of anionic can also be employed, and thereby any anionic/cationic complex formed can be solubilized in the excess; however, the use of large amounts of anionic can result in an alteration in the desired level of foam. The excess anionic may also greatly reduce, if not completely eliminate, the effectiveness of the cationic component.
For the foregoing reasons, it has been difficult to create a high performance hair color-depositing shampoo, since the cationic dyes so frequently used in hair coloring will not perform properly in the anionic surfactant system. This type of dye is particularly useful because of its ability to bind to the hair and its relative resistance to being washed off, but the formulation of a truly high quality color shampoo, having all the desirable qualities of a typical cleansing shampoo, by using the traditional type of shampoo system, has remained problematical.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides a cosmetic composition suitable for application to the hair or skin comprising a cationic component, and at least one anionic surfactant which is a an alkyl glucoester. The compositions of the invention have excellent foaming properties, as well as viscosity, and permit effective deposit and retention of the desired cationic component on the skin or hair. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a color-depositing shampoo containing at least one cationic dye.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
It has been unexpectedly discovered that it is now possible to formulate a composition having one or more cationic components in an anionic surfactant system, provided that the predominant anionic surfactant employed is an alkyl glucoester. The alkyl glucoesters useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,481, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference, and preferably have the formula:
wherein R=a fatty alcohol radical, n=an integer <4, X is H, or
provided that at least one X is not H.
The fatty alcohol may be C6-C22 alcohols, and preferably is predominantly C12-C18 alcohols. These alkyl glucoesters are manufactured by Lamberti S.p.A, Albizzate, Italy, and are distributed in the US by Pilot Chemical Company(Santa Fe Springs, Calif.) under the trade name Eucarol AGE. Particularly preferred of the available AGEs are disodium cocopolyglucose sulfosuccinate(AGE-SS), disodium cocopolyglucose citrate(AGE-EC), and sodium cocopolyglucose tartrate(AGE-ET). These surfactants have been recommended for use in cleansing compositions, including shampoos, but only in the traditional combination with amphoteric/zwitterionic or nonionic secondary surfactants. It has now been surprisingly discovered, however, that these anionic surfactants, unlike other anionics, are compatible with a cationic component in the formulation, and can therefore be used in combination with a variety of cationic materials, which combination has either not previously been possible or which resulted in a very inferior product. In contrast to previous cationic-containing products, the composition containing the present combination retains an excellent foaming capacity, and can be routinely viscosified by the standard measures used in more traditional surfactant systems, i.e., by the interaction of the anionic with the secondary surfactant and salt. In a typical surfactant system, the alkyl glucoester is used in amount of about 1% to about 30%, preferably about 3% to about 15%, by weight of the total composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the alkyl glucoesters are combined with a cationic hair dye, to create a color-depositing shampoo with a performance superior to such shampoos currently available. Cationic dyes are widely used in hair coloring, and are commonly referred to as “basic” dyes, with a color and number identification, such as “Basic yellow 57” Such dyes are widely used, and a list can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook 8
th
edition, 1999, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. An exemplary list includes, but is not limited to, Basic Brown 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Red 76, and Basic Yellow 57. The amount of any given dye used in a formula will depend upon the color desired, but generally, in a color-depositing shampoo, the catio

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