Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Reexamination Certificate
2000-09-25
2002-12-24
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
C424S400000, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070160, C424S047000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06497864
ABSTRACT:
A subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polymer (A) with specific characteristics and at least one film-forming and nonionic polymer (B). It is also targeted at a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hair using this composition and at its use in the formulation of styling products, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
The most widespread hair products on the cosmetics market for fixing the hair are compositions to be sprayed as an aerosol or as a pump-action spray, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, composed essentially of a solution, generally an alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution, and of a water-soluble or alcohol-soluble film-forming polymer, as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.
However, these hair formulations, such as mousses, gels and especially aerosol sprays and lacquers intended to retain the form of the hairstyle, still do not make it possible for the hairstyle to satisfactorily withstand the various natural movements of life, such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.
The polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic film-forming polymers which result in the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature.
When the polymer is too brittle, the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally of less than 2%, and the hold of the hairstyle over time is not assured.
To overcome this problem, these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers, and more flexible and non-flaky coatings have already been obtained. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that, after deformation, they only recover their initial form to a very small extent. While the hold of the hairstyle is improved, it is still not satisfactory since the form of the hairstyle changes over time.
More satisfactory results in terms of hold have been obtained with compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as, for example, a cellulose polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions are still not entirely satisfactory, in so far as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties.
There is therefore a search for cosmetic compositions for form retention of and/or for fixing the hairstyle which provide the hair with good cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance, in addition to fixing which lasts.
Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant Company has discovered that it is possible to overcome the technical problems mentioned above by using certain specific combinations of polymers.
A subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
(1) at least one polymer (A) chosen so that a film obtained by drying a mixture of this polymer (A) with ethanol or water, at room temperature and at a relative humidity level of 50%, exhibits a mechanical profile defined by at least:
(i) a degree of elongation at break (&egr;
b
) of greater than or equal to 300%;
(ii) a recovery at 300 seconds (R
300
) of greater than or equal to 45%; and
(iii) when the recovery at 300 seconds is between 45 and 60%, then the elongation is less than 1300%;
(2) at least one nonionic film-forming polymer (B), other than the polymer (A), chosen from
polyalkyloxazolines;
vinyl acetate homopolymers;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester;
copolymers of polyethylene and of maleic anhydride;
alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers;
acrylic ester copolymers, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates;
copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates,
copolymers of alkyl acrylate and of urethane,
guar gums,
polymers derived from hydroxystyrene,
vinyllactam homo- or copolymers.
Another subject-matter of the present invention relates to a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.
Yet another subject-matter of the present invention relates to the use of this composition in the manufacture of hair cosmetic compositions for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
The polymers (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Goodrich under the name Avalure AC 315® and V29®.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “film obtained by drying at room temperature (22±2° C.) and at a relative humidity level of 50%±5%” is understood to mean the film obtained under these conditions starting from a mixture comprising 6% of active material (a.m.) of polymer A with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adjusted in order to obtain, in a Teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500±50 &mgr;m. The drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days. The polymers A which are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water, in the dissolved or dispersed form.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the degree of elongation at break and the degree of recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below.
In order to carry out the tensile tests, the film is cut into rectangular test specimens with a length of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm.
The tests are carried out on a device, sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity conditions as for the drying, that is to say a temperature of 22±2° C. and a relative humidity level of 50±5%.
The test specimens are drawn at the rate of 20 mm/min and the distance between the jaws is 50±1 mm.
The following procedure is used to determine the instantaneous recovery (R
i
):
the test specimen is drawn by 150% (&egr;
max
), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (l
0
)
the stress is released at a return rate equal to the tensile rate, i.e. 20 mm/min, and the elongation of the test specimen is measured as a percentage after returning to zero load (&egr;
i
).
The instantaneous recovery as a % (R
i
) is given by the formula below:
R
i
=((&egr;
max
−&egr;
i
)/&egr;
max
)×100
In order to determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the test specimen which has been subjected to the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds and its degree of elongation is measured as a percentage (&egr;
300
)
The recovery as a % at 300 seconds (R
300
) is given by the formula below:
R
300
=((&egr;
max
−&egr;
300
)/&egr;
max
)×100
The nonionic film-forming polymers (B) which can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from:
vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam homopolymers;
copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate;
polyalkyloxazolines, such as the polyethyloxazolines provided by the company Dow Chemical under the names Peox 50,000, Peox 200,000 and Peox 500,000;
vinyl acetate homopolymers, such as the product provided under the name of Appretan EM by the company Hoechst or the product provided under the name of Rhodopas A 012 by the company Rhone-Poulenc;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, such as the product provided under the name of Rhodopas AD 310 from Rhône-Poulenc;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, such as the product provided under the name of Appretan TV by the company Hoechst;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example dibutyl maleate, such as the product provided under the name Appretan MB Extra by the company Hoechst;
copolymers of polyethylene and of maleic anhydride;
alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers, such as the product provided under the name Micropearl RQ 750 by t
Dupuis Christine
Samain Henri
Bennett Rachel M
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
Page Thurman K.
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